Instead of adding pre-load, which I assume means cranking down on the springs, I would add clicks (adjust compression) to the shock. I found with my 900, I had to add a lot of clicks to get it more stable at higher speeds. When back on the slow stuff I would take the clicks down lower.

The Fox shocks had around 24 clicks to max, on the rear shocks I ran 2 clicks for slow and 12 to 15 for higher speed stuff. This made the machine very stable at speed.

If you are really aggressive, you need the sway bar back on the machine. First, try adjusting the shock to be extremely stiff (full clockwise). I'd lower it back down also, cranked up and high speed corners doesn't mix well.

 

Thanks a lot..I did not think the compression has something to do with body roll in corner..deserve a try...

for the sway bar, like I said It will be a lot of work to get it in place..will try everything else before modifying it

 

Let us know if it helps.

 

You need to start all over. The video and instructions are kinda there but you really need to play with the preload and end up with what they loosely stated.
What I did on mine thru tons of research on this was................Jack the vehicle off the ground,measure from the bottom of the coil spring to the point where the shock shaft enters the shock body-write that down somewhere as you will need it. They specify that for the shock to work properly that you want at least 20% of the shaft inside the shock body. Let the vehicle down and roll it back and forth and bounce it a couple times and measure the shock again. If you did your math and preload setting correct 20% of the shaft should be inside the shock, if not adjust if necessary. For them to handle properly you normally have a one inch drop in the rear. you know 12" front...11" rear. start with clicker in the middle and see how that does. Unhook that front stabilizer and ziptie it up.

 

I have the series 46 resi- bandits on mine as well. and both stabilzers unhooked.

 

thanks 4getful2 and with your both stabilzers of you have no problem with your body roll?

 

Not really, but 90% of my riding is in the woods.
I did measure mine today and on the front I had 1 1/4" from the top of threaded area to the top of the adjuster collar, on the rear I had 1 3/8". weightwise I think we are about the same so maybe you could use that if it helps. I do remember that after a couple days worth of trail riding ,I had to turn the rears up a lil, a turn or two to get the height back.
Hope this helps.

 

I have the bandit trail series and it took me a while to get mine good mostly cause I was afraid to play with the setting. So now I?m the front if you want To call it preload I am about 1/2? thread showing on top of shock and 11maybe 12 clicks off rebound the rear is about 1-1.1/2 ? preload and about 10 I think clicks backed off and works very well

 

OK long time this post but want it to be updated with all my test...

so back in november I test everything from preload to compression..I tested a lot of setting and honestly, nothing compare to the stability of the sway bar connected in agressive trail and rapid turn...I don't do slow crawling I do agressive trail riding and I'm all in in the corner..So I decided to do the big job, move 3" high the sway ba and get it installed..SO I did a bracket to raise the sway bar 3" higher and also cut the rod that connect the the down bolt shock and lengthen it to 3" longer..In fact that was the easy part..the biggest problem was that with the sway bar 3" higher, it became directly where the muffler is on the right side..so had to modify the muffler by adding a 7" straight line and adding a flex on the line...I have big horn 2.0 tire and there was just a little space to pass the muffler between the sway bar and the tire when the shock is fully compress...I had to be sure the tire doesn't touch the muffler line If I take big bumps...There is more than 1/2" each side of the muffler line of clearance..and it's theorical..All in all it took me about 15 hours of work to get it done..now the test:

On the first minute of riding I regain almost all the stability that I had before removing the rear sway bar...I had to reajust the compression and preload(in the rear i'm not sure but I had to add a lot to be sure not the bottom).The picture was taken at the first ride but I had to crank it more than 1" since...so all in all i'm very happy with the setup..the muffler did not move at all and the stability is there..and now imagine what; just gone on the bandit utv website and there now offer the kit with compression without the external gaz tank(not sure if there is one or if they just put the standart shock on the rear) so you don't have to remove the rear sway bar anymore...maybe cause all the email I sent to them

here the picture of the setup

 

Question....why didn't you just cut the two rear sway bar links and just weld in three inches of tubing or possibly just turn the shocks upside down They will work either way. This problem isn't just limited to Bandit shocks. Any Piggyback shock that you use on the rear of the 570 rzr is going to do the same thing

 

put the rear sway bar on. take the front one off.

 

At the speed that I ride, I really think I need each sway bar on...

 

While we're on the subject of Bandits... does anyone know if there's a forum discount offered on Bandit purchases?

As for sway bars; if you take the front one off, you will never regret doing it. I ride a lot of roads at 58 MPH. My road rides are just as stable without the front bar as they were with it. The difference I do notice, however, is that when I'm doing tight switchbacks. I no longer have a front wheel hanging in the air a foot off the ground.

 

It's what I've done for the rear sway bar link..add 3 inch each side...for the upside down I tried it but but it did not work..don't remember exactly but there where no place for the bottle I think with the tire installed..

 

You said you made a bracket to raise the sway bar links. I mean actually cut the links and make them three inches longer. Seems like a much easier fix than to have to fabricate a new bracket to raise tham. I reread your post and I'm confused If you made a bracket to raise the links three inches then why did you also cut the links and add three inches of material to them That would give you a six increase in height of the sway bar links and definitely cause clearance problems

 

Following

 

Few months later can't be more happy with this setup..everything still in place...I rode all winter and now back to summer trail..Only thing I had to is reinforce the bracket that I made to hold the rear sway bar up cause one side curved..I also add a pair of pro armor seat, a 4 point seat belt and, dalton clutch kit and adding wider offset rim which give me 4 inch in the back to help avain on stability..man the machine is awesome...It's a lot of work but really worth it..now the only think I can maybe add is something on the motor to add some hp but with the dalton kit and all the confort I can ride like crazy on every trail..friend can't follow me even one that have a rzr 800 walker evans( wich is incredible on the confort)...this machine can follow me with no problem but maybe I'm a little more crazy

 

Looking at you pictures and looking at my original location sway bar... Would it have been easier to not move the sway bar and not cut and add length to the links. Rather cut the sway bar and add a section of round tube maybe 6" (quick unmeasured guess) extending the bends outside of the reservoirs. This would have been 2 welds not 4 and keep the exhaust fully intact rather than making change point to create future exhaust issues?

 

Looking at you pictures and looking at my original location sway bar... Would it have been easier to not move the sway bar and not cut and add length to the links. Rather cut the sway bar and add a section of round tube maybe 6" (quick unmeasured guess) extending the bends outside
of the reservoirs. This would have been 2 welds not 4 and keep the exhaust fully intact rather than making change point to create future exhaust issues?

That was.my first idea and
I talked to some people and they all told me to never cut a sway bar..the strengh will be change and will cause problem after...so I decided to look elsewhere