More info needed.

 

When I grab onto the axle where it goes into the front diff, I can wiggle it up/down and side to side. Heard its a common issue with these and its the splines of the axle wearing out. Read somewhere you could put teflon tape on the splines before putting it back in to help take away the play

 

Teflon tape? LOL

For real? Teflon tape?
Wouldn't...gorilla tape be better?



You need new diff cups.
Teflon tape, electrical tape, scotch tape, masking tape, packing tape, it doesn't matter the tape, tape isn't the fix.
End of thread.

 

Teflon tape? LOL

For real? Teflon tape?
Wouldn't...gorilla tape be better?



You need new diff cups.
Teflon tape, electrical tape, scotch tape, masking tape, packing tape, it doesn't matter the tape, tape isn't the fix.
End of thread.

Is it the diff cups or the axle spindles?

 

How will you know without looking?
Go look.

 

How will you know without looking?
Go look.

How will I know? What will the spline look like if its worn or what should it look like if its fine?

 

Is the diff leaking at the axle seals?

 

Just started to on the drivers side

 

Your gonna need HubHornets, Contact Tom at ZFG UTV he'll get you everything you need for your diff if your mechanically inclined or you can send it to him and he can build it.

 

More info? Is it replacement output hubs? Or a fix for the existing ones?

 

Took the axle out and this is what I am seeing. Can anyone tell if its bad output hubs or the axle?

 

You can see the wear on the hub, but I consider it like chains and sprockets - replace both. Save those axles for future spares, but using worn axles in new hubs is only going to allow the hubs to wear out quicker.

 

Seems like quite a job to split the diff to fix that, whats the harm in just leaving it as is? Would I be better to just put new axles or would they just wear early

 

Anyone know if there is a cheaper or better alternative than the $450 hub from polaris? Find it hard to believe no one has made an aftermarket one

 

Diff is actually pretty simple, watch a couple youtube videos and you'll see theres not much too them.

If you Diff is leaking like you stated above it will allow water and grime to get into the diff causing bearing failure and then your looking at possibly having to get a whole new diff to the tune of well over $1k, plus possibly ruining a riding trip.

Doing your maintenance at home is a lot easer than trying to do it on the trail.

 

If ultimately your plan is a new diff and axles anyway, not much. If however, the plan would be to repair the current diff, then it could snowball into needing a new diff. As was already stated:

Diff is actually pretty simple, watch a couple youtube videos and you'll see theres not much too them.

If you Diff is leaking like you stated above it will allow water and grime to get into the diff causing bearing failure and then your looking at possibly having to get a whole new diff to the tune of well over $1k, plus possibly ruining a riding trip.

Doing your maintenance at home is a lot easer than trying to do it on the trail.

 

Anyone know if there is an upgrade or alternative than the polaris OEM output hubs?

 

The upgrade would be to replace the entire diff, Sandcraft, SuperATV, etc.

 

Whats the harm if I leave it alone this year? Seems like I will be almost 1k into axles and output hubs

 

Is there anywhere other options than the SuperATV and their GDP diff?

 

Joe Coffman Hill Killer but you have to mod your frame to fit it.
Sandcraft to build a stock case
SuperATV GDP
Most others you just get the internals and put it in your stock case.

 

It is what it is with the output hubs, there is not an aftermarket solution. $450 for an oem hub assembly is the cheapest fix.

 

How many miles you got on the machine?

 

3200

 

3200 isn't not much at all for miles. If you like to keep taking the front diff in/out- you could always replace just the seals and run the old axles not a problem.

 

Change the c- clips should take care of it .
And seals sounds like
FJB

 

Try just the seals, open it up and just check the inside while you have it out, then go from there. If the cups have slop you’re going to need bearings, the cups look fine and so do your splines on the axle.

 

Can I just replace that seal with the front diff in? Looks like I should be able to. Its that gray seal right?

 

If your good you you can do it without separating the case. But will already have it out of the rig, or I would anyway to work on it... It doesnt cost that much more to open it up and inspect then you know your good or if you need to get extra parts.

 

Sounds good, I am going to change the seals and get some new c-clips and try to get the rest of the season out of it if I can. Thanks for all the help everyone

 

I have the same issue on my 2015 rzr 1000 with both Front axles, I just add more fluid! I was told by polaris that is normal, not sure how a $20k machine is built so poorly that this is normal. I guess i could chase this problem with new huds, bearings, seal, and axles just to wind back up in the same situation.

 

Prior ( if Memory serves me right) to 2019, Polaris had issues with the front diff axle seals, and were updated to a better seal. Will this work in prior years?? I haven't had the chance to even try that on clients machines.
Doing a search on here or ask Pro 4 driver he has had that front diff out pretty often on his 2018 and did a good fix.
@Pro4driver

 

I can’t imagine treating my machine like that

 

I was looking at a completely rebuilt front diff from east lake axle, anyone tried it or have any opinions?

 

I have used car parts from east lake. They are on pare with autozone parts. Thats not to say they are good for RZR.
My friend has his front diff out now on a newer TRE rig with low miles. Still has the metal bearing cage problem on pinion gear. Cage showing lots of wear and metal on magnetic drain plug is from that.

Leaking plugs in the back of outdrive cups has started. Sandcraft parts will fix it, but still need to take it down and seal the plugs in bottom of outdrive cups. Can send diff to Sandcraft and they will do it right. Can get by with silicone inside bottom of cups a while and keep diff fluid topped off.
Spines don't look stripped yet. However, need to find out why the axles are bottoming out in drive cups. That looks like what caused your issue. Something else going on there? Wheel bearings in hubs? A Arm bushings?

Let us know what you find out. I'm headed back out to the mountains for a few weeks today. Don't get on here much, but would like to know the fix you end up with. Good Luck!