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Discussion Starter #1
I know OEM axles are at the bottom and RCV are at the top, but were do all the other brands fall in line, strength vs cost? Boatload of aftermarket axles and trying to figure out what is good and what is junk....for a 17 xp4.

Brian
 

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You are not going to get anything but opinion with a question like that. I use High Lifter DHTX axles for mine.
 

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I used Caltric axles. They are chrome molly and beefier than stock. No fitment problems. Slid rite in. I have had them in for a while now with no issues. I got them on eBay. Couldn’t justify spending the money on Rhino axles. I don’t do that hard of riding.


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Discussion Starter #4
I know it will be nothing but opinions, what I'm wanting. Don't abuse my rzr, so not really wanting to spend 200-250$ for rhino 2.0 or demon axles, if the 140$ all balls 8 that are beefier than stock will work for me....I come from the rock crawling world, so know beefing way up one component, moves the weak link somewhere else...don't want to move the weak link to the diff, just want a better, reasonably priced front axle.
 

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Forum pricing from Super ATV or Craig @ Pro UTV parts make the Rhino 2.0 the best bang for the buck in my opinion. Rhino's have always held up to the hell I've put my 900 and now my XPT4 through, and I do some pretty serious crawling.

Moving the weak link is a viable concern however, I have no experience with that all balls 8 you mention, but if you're on stock tires, I would say staying OEM or going with that axle will leave the "fuse" in the axle for the most part. I wouldn't say OEM is the "bottom" either (especially true on a Turbo/S/RS-1), but still mostly true for the other models as well... I think i saw some $80 off brand axles somewhere... I would avoid those lol.

If you're not running KOH or Baja in a full built race car with the whole drive train upgraded... RCV doesn't even need to be a blip on the radar
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Running 32" carnivores...rcv are not even remotely considered...just trying to get opinions on all the different brands...I knew were all the 4340 axle brands fell in the rock crawling game....rzrs not so much.
 

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After popping a front differential...I'd prefer to run cheap axles and just have a spare. You'd way rather change a cheap axle than a differential or transmission. On my last RZR I put in an inexpensive eBay one and it worked great.
 

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I used to run Rhinos, but I have developed the opinion of staying with OEM or a company like Eastlake for axles for the fact the axles are the "fuse" or "weak" link and the transmission remains the strongest part.

Long story short, easier and cheaper to replace an axle than a transmission.

Josh
 

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Isnt part of the fun dumping all kinds of money into it and trying to make it bulletproof :)
I am of the believe you should upgrade to the best of your ability then learn to drive within the limits of what you built.
 

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Isnt part of the fun dumping all kinds of money into it and trying to make it bulletproof :)
I am of the believe you should upgrade to the best of your ability then learn to drive within the limits of what you built.
I believe most stuff is broken from stupidity and being retarded... a quick glance at Youtube, Facebook and Instagram demonstrates that.
 

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I run cheap Ebay ones up front, and Cobra's out back. Have had good luck with the Cobra's, and they will rebuild them for you if needed.
 

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the 140$ all balls 8 that are beefier than stock will work for me....I come from the rock crawling world, so know beefing way up one component, moves the weak link somewhere else...don't want to move the weak link to the diff, just want a better, reasonably priced front axle.
All Balls 8ball axles seem to be a good axle from my experience at a fantastic price
 
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