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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying not to sound too stupid here so please don't make too much fun of me hehe. Is there an easy way to tell if my AWD is working on my 08 RZR? When I flip the switch it lights up and the awd symbol appears on the dash cluster but it just feels like it isn't engaging. Is there something I can check on the machine without having to go for a ride.

Thanks,
the most unmechanically inclined rzr owner.
 

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Polaris AWD only works when the rear wheels loose traction, you can not engage it manually, it does so thru the electrics in the front diff and sensors that detect rear wheel spin. next time youre going to hit some mud turn it on and make the back wheels spin and see if the fronts turn. Also, never turn it on while the rear wheels are spinning free. You can turn it on while moving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's right I forgot about that. It then disengages when you reach a certain speed or just when the rear wheels stop spinning.
 

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Darryn, put your 08 up on jackstands, all 4 wheels. with the engine off, select high range and rotate one back wheel by hand, the other rear should rotate the same speed. Now turn on the key on and select AWD with the switch, turn the same rear wheel in forward, the front wheels should also rotate after a bit of rear rotation. Turn off the switch, the fronts shouldn't turn.
Easy to check,
John
 

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I am about to buy a 2009 RZR and the guy just called me to say the AWD light comes on but the fronts are not kicking in when they should, when the rears start spinning. I dont know anything about the RZR but really want to trade, he is saying that changing the fluid sometimes clears this up. IS that so, I dont want to get stuck with a lemon. Sorry to highjack the thread.
 

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Double G. first of all, you can do that test I gave to Darryn pretty easy, I sense from you that you are perhaps buying this RZR from a distance and have little "hands-on". The wrong fluid will damage the Diff, but it will not correct a problem. Usually the problem with the Diff is the Sprague carrier inside the Diff, this is a plastic drum that holds the rollers that pivit to engage the front axles. I believe that polaris designed this part to be the "weak point" to prevent catastropic failure of the whole diff, why this belief?? Polaris has upgraded this part in the 2010-2011's to metal.
Hear is my thought about your delima, you are buying a used RZR, if something doesn't work, discount the selling price accordingly. The Diff repalcement is about 750.00$ dicker for that or somepart considering how much you want this one. Once the seller is disclosed that the AWD is broke, if he wants to sell he has the option of repairing the diff, discounting, or trying to sell to someone else that might not know. As I see it you are in the drivers seat.
The Sprague carrier replacement is video'd somewhere on this form. I replaced my plastic one with the Holz aftermarket which had great instructions. The time consuming part is getting the Diff out to work on it but the up side of this is that you will gain valuable knowledge of your RZR.
Hope this helps,
John
 

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Go HARD or Go Home
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Double G. first of all, you can do that test I gave to Darryn pretty easy, I sense from you that you are perhaps buying this RZR from a distance and have little "hands-on". The wrong fluid will damage the Diff, but it will not correct a problem. Usually the problem with the Diff is the Sprague carrier inside the Diff, this is a plastic drum that holds the rollers that pivit to engage the front axles. I believe that polaris designed this part to be the "weak point" to prevent catastropic failure of the whole diff, why this belief?? Polaris has upgraded this part in the 2010-2011's to metal.
Hear is my thought about your delima, you are buying a used RZR, if something doesn't work, discount the selling price accordingly. The Diff repalcement is about 750.00$ dicker for that or somepart considering how much you want this one. Once the seller is disclosed that the AWD is broke, if he wants to sell he has the option of repairing the diff, discounting, or trying to sell to someone else that might not know. As I see it you are in the drivers seat.
The Sprague carrier replacement is video'd somewhere on this form. I replaced my plastic one with the Holz aftermarket which had great instructions. The time consuming part is getting the Diff out to work on it but the up side of this is that you will gain valuable knowledge of your RZR.
Hope this helps,
John
Awesome answer, I'll be looking at replacing mine now that I have some good advice, Double G, that test is pretty to do, if I can do it anyone can. Thanks for all the great info. Keep it up.
 

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Not to discount anything John stated, but I believe anytime someone has AWD problems and there are no obvious noises or other issues the first thing they should do is inspect or change the fluid. It only takes something like 7 oz. Some front diffs are prone to water and other gunk with a loose or misplace vent line. This is a regular maintenance item that is easy to overlook until problems arise.
 

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As far as jacking it up and checking the awd that can work and show that the magnet is grabbing the friction disc.
Some will pass this test but fail when required to transmit a large amount of power through the diff. Example: AWD seems to work but woun't turn the front wheels in mud.

I check mine, when I think I have a problem, by running a tow strap around a tree and see if all 4 wheels will dig. I also do this in reverse as well. The last problem I had the AWD would work in forward but not reverse. If it will dig a hole with the front it works no questions asked.

The reverse problem was traced to a bad factory conection in the electric contactor in the transmission.
 

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I also have a troublesome AWD. Just wondering if anyone has any clues.
All things check out perfectly.Ohms, voltage, ect. Freshly replaced with a holz sprauge, new armature plate and the u shaped plate as well. Vehicle will not engage AWD. I have torn it apart a few times. The magnet works when energized (when diff is apart), but AWD does not when its reassembled. The only thing left to do is change fluids again. Holz told me to run a Mobile gear lube. Which I tried prior to replacing the aramature, but that didn't work, so I replaced that and now I have the Mobile fluid in there with all new parts. Anyone have problems with that Mobil gear fluid?
 

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Do you get the AWD symbol on your speedo when in Gear? If not your resistor pack or trans switch is bad.

Also, I had a bad connector the first time my AWD quit. I could get voltage on th speedo side but not on the diff side of the connector. Replaced that with a waterproof connector from summit racing.
 
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Yeah everything lights up perfect and the voltage is right at he diff.
Gear lube? What weight..in any case..my bet is that is your problem. Too heavy..drain it and put the proper Polaris fluid in there...run it until warm drain and refill again...JMO
One of the only things that I don't suggest straying from Polaris fluids on is the Hilliard diff(unless maybe you run what Hilliard suggests)..it is picky about the fluid and also the fluid level..use exaclty the amount the manual calls for..armature plate needs to move freely..
 

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The actual fluid I was running is called : Mobil One LS Synthetic Gear 75W/90. Its what Holz told me to run on the phone, but their manual says to use Polaris fluid and even gives you a part number.
Im doing that next!
Thanks Kam
 

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The correct fluid from polaris is really thin, almost like water. I would get the correct fluid from your dealer and flush a couple of times,
John
 

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Well?
 
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