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Discussion Starter #1
i am trying to paint my plastics. i am using a flexible parts primer made for plastics. as i am letting it flash it is still peeling off easily if i scrape my fingernail on it. i have da sanded it with 400 and scuffed like crazy with a grey scotch brite and scuff paste. does the primer have to sit over night to bond correctly or do i need to prep better?
 

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"it is still peeling off easily" ....the primer?, paint on plastic? molded panel? painted panel? are you using an adhesion promoter?

and finally did you shake vigorously for one minute?.... like that purple dinosaur guy?..... sorry.....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
its called "flexible parts primer" for plastic and other things. i am hesitant to go any further until i know this stuck.
 

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Is it spray cans you are using? Once sanded it needs to be cleaned with denatured alcohol and then sprayed with a good adhesion promoter, I use all PPG products.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what does the denatured alcohol do? i used a ton of the prep scuff and used surface prep/wax and grease remover.
 

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You never want to use grease and wax on plastic, it takes to long dry and gets in the pores of the plastic and has to eventually come out. So if you use grease and wax as cleaner on plastic I would let it sit for a while before painting to let it evaporate out. They make special cleaners for plastic which is the same as denatured alcohol and a lot less money then the plastic cleaners. Also when you use grease and wax on plastic or fiberglass it creates static and alcohol won't. The problem with painting plastic is the mold release they use so the plastic comes out of the mold. On some plastics it is only on the surface but other plastics have mold release in the plastic and those are much harder to paint.
 

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Im a auto body painter and just got an 2011. I cant seem to get paint to stick to the hood at all. Ive used just about every dupont and 3M product under the sun and paint will not stick to the plastics. On the other hand it never sticks to well on any plastic bumpers. I did paint my plastics just hope i dont catch a snag and tear it all off.
 

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i uste to work in a body shop myself up untill about a month ago. im not 100% on this but wouldent you need to prime it like you would a toyota bumper with the acid spray to make it where the paint will adhere i know on a toyota bumper such as a camry bumper if you dident get it good with the acid it would peel like crazy.
 

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No paint will stick as good as factory paint. You can always try bulldog adhesion promoter. But you said your priming your plastics? You need to let the primer dry for a few hours and the aerosol can primer will do what its doing to you. And theres no problem using wax and grease remover, you just have to go over it with water cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well ill be in the dunes with it 100% of the time so hopefully the paint will stick well enough. i got the plastic primer to stick pretty well. in some spots if i try hard i can scrape it off with my finger nail but most spots i cant. thanks for the input on the alcohol. i was a shop helper at a body shop a few years ago. i remember using alcohol and wax n grease for different things but they never gave me a good explanation as to why.\

i noticed a 2010 purple rzr s i saw looked like it was painted from the factory. i wonder what they do?
 

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Polaris sells a paintable plastic for the RZR, its a matte black. I think all the painted bodies they sell from the factory have this plastic under it.
 

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No paint will stick as good as factory paint.
I disagree.

I just painted my plastic. We paint plastic everyday. The factory paint ain't all that actually. They've switched over to water borne paint because of EPA restrictions - they do, however, have a state of the art application process to make that WB paint work so well.

You are spot on about the Bulldog!

If you are painting over the factory paint then you'll want to do a good job of sanding, then hit it with the Bulldog. Let it dry and apply a high quality two-part automotive paint. You'll be just fine.

If you are painting over the black, un-primed plastic same thing goes - sand, Bulldog, primer. Let that dry overnight if possible for the best adhesion.

This plastic was just painted...that paint is going Nowhere.....flexed it, bent it...:)

 

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im using SEM XXX 77723 adhesion promoter. aerosol 11.3 oz.

i actually tried to look up the bulldog and safety data sheet.......found nothing but suppliers.
presuming its as good or better than SEM, cause the two guys recommending it are real painters but.....

SEM has one WARNING INSTRUCTION hidden real small in the middle of the label
(small due to too many languages) ..........APPLY ONE LIGHT TOPCOAT.......allow 5 minutes flash.......followed by one full wet coat..........flash 15-30 minutes, etc.

think about that intermediate step and what it is doing to the plastic/ or topcoat (duh plastic paint).

our local ppg shop outright warned me "follow that one light coat" part mark. gee, something must have come up before if they are remembering to tell me.

all of the rest of the steps here should be painting 101, right?

i did two oem panels and a meier hood taped off two colors with great results. it has seen 6 pressure washes with nozzle reasonably close.

listen to the real painters who gave input, im an occasional painter.
 

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Here's what the Bulldog looks like:


The directions say apply light mist coat, wait 3 - 5 min. then apply second light mist coat, wait 5 -10 min, then your paint.....we only use one light coat of the Bulldog - works just fine, but be sure to mist it entirely - don't miss any spots.
Clean-up w/ lacquer thinner.

You can find it at most auto paint supply shops.
 

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see - real guys use gallons!
the SEM is white bottom row on end.
just for poops and giggles heres how a little guy has to paint on a budget. 9' x 10' booth....i cant drive an SUV around in mine..... filters matching our furnace, super fan inside found in a dumpster.....the aerosol rack is vintage, anybody remember old rustoleum labels?.....the signs are excellent to mint and have literally no overspray on them. have shot several hundred small jobs in there. big stuff goes outdoors.....proper mixing and compatibility charts if i get confused....looks like Qt. sized Riviera Hotel coin cups for mixing.(you people actually purchase those?).....Suncoast casino small parts dip bowls.....lazy susan, also dumpster.....15 year old calendars.....mahogany boards?.....scraps to trip on....separate light switches for cool white and neon.....and denatured alcohol - FOR HUFFING
 

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normally the filters are presentable and clean.
you are seeing them needing replace.
was shooting Nissan Silver, making small signs for customers pulling up for Nissan car service.
shot PPG acrylic enamel, basic 8-6-1, 602 reducer using Prevals.
 

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....The problem with painting plastic is the mold release they use so the plastic comes out of the mold. On some plastics it is only on the surface but other plastics have mold release in the plastic and those are much harder to paint.
I thought there was special plastics like they use on the LE models that are made for paint.

If you search paint there are tons of posts and advice about it.
 

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mr. ecenur,
made me feel guilty, ran down and replaced all (4). im working late.
anyone can make the same budget set-up for small $.
tip of the day: the little cheapo $2 stainless funnel.
ground to fit both the pints and quarts. no spillage.
 

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Cam how did it come out are you going to be ready for glamis thanksgiving week lets see some pic's
 
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