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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Our new bolt on dash bar for the Polaris RZR not only adds strength to your roll cage it provides a place to mount a 30″ Rigid Industries LED Light Bar over the dash. These lights work great down low where they don’t get hit by branches or taken out in a rollover. Dash bar bolts on utilizing our tube clamps machined from half inch thick DOM. Lower tube clamps are machined to fit over the roll cage bungs, adding strength to these connections. LED light mount features bolt on machined caps that cover up the light bar bolts. Machined caps are also pocketed to cover the mounting tabs for a nice clean mount. Machined caps and tube clamps feature stainless machine screws.

ATR Polaris RZR V Brace Dash Bar with LED Light Mounts - $295



 

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I ordered mine yesterday and I think I'll have it tomorrow. It looks like I might run into a problem with the lower mounts because I have Pro Armor doors that also use the A pillar mounts. I didn't notice before that these mount over the factory bungs.

I also forgot to order the light bar. How long of lead time are there on these?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
An easy way (if you have a welder) to get the Pro Armor doors to work is mount up the dash bar w/ the front part of the door mount unbolted. Mark on Pro Armors bracket where it meets the outer half of the tube clamp, cut Pro Armor bracket where you can weld it to the outer half of the tube clamp. This would end up being a stronger mount with less movement. We are looking at making outer halves of the tube clamps with both iTi and Pro Armor door mounts built in. So if you have either doors, or have the dash bar and buy the doors at a later time you can just get the outer half of the tube clamp to make it all bolt on. Sorry no time frame on these yet. Give me a call if you need any help w/ modifying yours.

Edit, didnt realize the Pro Armor doors have aluminum frames. Scratch what i said above unless you have iTi doors. I need to get some Pro Armor doors in here so i see what we could do.

Jeremy
 

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I ordered the light bar this afternoon, and hopefully it will be here next week.

I had the bar installed and it shouldn't take much to get the doors to work. Just drill holes in the PA mounts and get longer 5/16" CARBON STEEL capscrews. The stainless bolts look better than carbon but mine are going in the garbage!!! One of my guys put one of the lower outside clamps on the upper mount and it was a disaster to get it back off to say the least.:sad:

On a better note....... It doesn't look like it will take much to get the Polaris windshield to fit. Just remove the upper middle clamp, and take a Dremel to the spots where the light bar mounts will stick through.

I'll post pics when I'm finished with the install. It's going to look GREAT:ride:
 

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It wasn't that big of deal to mount the V-Brace with the Pro Armor doors. Just drill the aluminum door mount tab and use 5/16" x 1-1/4" capscrews instead of the 1" long.

I'm still in the middle of the install but I'll have better pics when I'm finished. I'm going to fit the windshield tommorow, but it doesn't look like it will take much to get it to fit.
 

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Here they are. Now if I just had a light bar:)

Not too much work to get the bar to fit with the doors, and a little Dremel to the windshield. I'll take more pics in the daylight.
 

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It wasn't that big of deal to mount the V-Brace with the Pro Armor doors. Just drill the aluminum door mount tab and use 5/16" x 1-1/4" capscrews instead of the 1" long.
I just installed my Pro-Armor doors, and really looking at this set up. (Beats me thinking of welding tabs on the roof. But I am courious as how the overall fit and finish is.

I understand that you did not realize that it would mount in the same location as the PA doors did, and you made the best out of it. Actually it looks really good.

But with squeezing the Pro-Armor mounts between the clamps - I am assuming that the overall strength (or ridgity) of the clamp is lowered due to the 1/4 space that the PA doors now take up.

How does the fit feel to you? Is there noticable play in the bar? Would you recommend the same method that you did for all people who have the Pro Armor doors, or would you recommend an alternative method for mounting the 30" (like welding it just below the roof line)?

Thanks a bunch for your recommendations. As I know Endi is still waiting for me to order the 10" and 30" that I told him I would.
 

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SXS: do you guys carry/sell the tire tie down and bracket as shown in the last picture?
That is E-track normally used on the walls in moving vans. I installed it in the floor and it's the only way to go in my opinion. You can buy it in any trailer supply store and the straps just snap into it. Quick and easy:)
 

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It wasn't that big of deal to mount the V-Brace with the Pro Armor doors. Just drill the aluminum door mount tab and use 5/16" x 1-1/4" capscrews instead of the 1" long.
I just installed my Pro-Armor doors, and really looking at this set up. (Beats me thinking of welding tabs on the roof. But I am courious as how the overall fit and finish is.

I understand that you did not realize that it would mount in the same location as the PA doors did, and you made the best out of it. Actually it looks really good.

But with squeezing the Pro-Armor mounts between the clamps - I am assuming that the overall strength (or ridgity) of the clamp is lowered due to the 1/4 space that the PA doors now take up.

How does the fit feel to you? Is there noticable play in the bar? Would you recommend the same method that you did for all people who have the Pro Armor doors, or would you recommend an alternative method for mounting the 30" (like welding it just below the roof line)?

Thanks a bunch for your recommendations. As I know Endi is still waiting for me to order the 10" and 30" that I told him I would.
I don't think it will effect the strength at all, and there is no play at all in the bar. It takes a little extra time to install, but it's no big deal. I'll get better pics, but here are a few from today's ride.
 

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