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Some really cool ideas! Very much enjoying this thread!
 
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'21 Pro XP4 Ultimate Rockford Fosgate LE
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Discussion Starter · #162 · (Edited)
Got the rear seats finished up tonight. I ended up trying quite a few different routing positions to see how the wiring would function best for the seat bases in both the normal and folded down positions. I didn't like the way the wiring ran so I cut the ends off the seat side and drilled a 3/8" hole in the base near where the wiring came out from the seat cover. This allowed me to tuck them behind where the seatbelts connect and run them next to the hoop that holds the inner seatbelt harnesses. This put the wiring where it has a minimal chance of getting snagged inadvertently.
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I hate myself for not putting the grommet on before I put the harness connectors and heat shrink on. This will be the failure point I check if this side stops working:
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The location does have them fairly protected by the harness. I may however decide to add a wire loom strap to bring it closer but I'm not doing it tonight.
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Since I decided to connect the harness below the rear panel I grabbed some weatherproof extensions I had for an old set of HID headlamps and cut those to make new plug ends. I'll feel better about crossing any water holes having these under the seat instead of the basic connectors that come on the Tusk kit.
Electrical wiring Cable Gas Wire Auto part


Tomorrow after work I'll finalize the wiring and reinstall the front passenger seat. Once that's done I'll ask MrsArcticz to come out to the shop and test them. Will post a review or maybe even a video of her first impressions of how they work.
 

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I used the Polaris kit, and laughed at myself for what I got in the kit vs what I paid. I have a ton of cable and could've made it myself. I figure the price of the kit with the retainers and cable ends already installed saved me the price in time, so maybe it's a wash. 🤔
What exactly comes in the Poo kit? Did u happen to take a picture of the kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
What exactly comes in the Poo kit? Did u happen to take a picture of the kit?
The kit includes a hold down bracket and hardware to install (couple U-nuts and torx bolts), the 2 cables with the retainers installed where they needed to be, and probably the most important was a threaded post to install under the passenger seat for ground to chassis.

Here's the breakdown from the instructions:
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The kit includes a hold down bracket and hardware to install (couple U-nuts and torx bolts), the 2 cables with the retainers installed where they needed to be, and probably the most important was a threaded post to install under the passenger seat for ground to chassis.

Here's the breakdown from the instructions:
View attachment 684914
Thanks, was wondering if it came with a battery isolator, guess not. Ill have to see what my dealer wants for the kit, they usually give me 15% off accessories
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Thanks, was wondering if it came with a battery isolator, guess not. Ill have to see what my dealer wants for the kit, they usually give me 15% off accessories
Post 67 on page 4 of this thread has what I used.

I should probably make an index for this thread in the original post, maybe once I get the next few projects done I'll take the time to do that so it's easier to find stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 · (Edited)
Ok, back on topic: The seats are reinstalled and went for a short ride with MrsArcticz and she was happy with them. Said that she preferred the heat at the lower back more so than underneath. If I was to do these again I would have used one heating element on the front bottom section and the second on the upper portion of the rear lower section. However she disagreed and says that she was happy with where the heat was felt. I'm a bigger guy at 6'5" and she's like 5'5" so take that for what it's worth. I just think I would've rather had it further down the back of my thigh. They do get warm, we didn't ride long and it's not that cold today at 37° but they made a difference for sure. The switch on the dash to power up the seat relays will be a better solution than by ignition for where I mounted the switches, the dash switch will need to be on before any of the seat relays get power. I can see them getting accidentally turned on when moving cups around.

First impressions are that it was worth the effort.

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Edit: I did end up adding another element to the front lower cushion. There are now 3 elements in the seats, only the front lower and the upper section of the rear cushion are hooked to power. The heat is more noticeable to me with it further forward on the seat. Didn't have to completely remove the seats to add the front heating element.
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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Spent today getting ready for the transfer of the tracks which were on my Ranger 900. I ordered the ProXP anti-rotation brackets from ATVTRACKS.NET and they were kind enough to get me a couple of the parts I needed for maintenance that I'm doing during the transfer as well. Fortunately the track drivers can be swapped front to rear to meet the drive ratio on the ProXP.

For those that are unaware, the front wheels on any 4wd Polaris won't engage until there is a slip of the rear wheels even when the switch is in 4wd.
For the doubters, here's the point from the manual:
Font Screenshot Parallel Number Electric blue


This is critical to understand when transferring tracks from one model to another. The drive ratio has to be accounted for or the front wheels won't be pulling and you'll be struggling to move (burning belts). To 'trick' the 4wd system into staying engaged and driving all 4 wheels the front and rear wheels need to spin at different speeds when moving. My Ranger had 18 tooth drive wheels in the front and 17 tooth drive cog wheels in the rear. The ratio on the ProXP and Turbo S call for a 17 tooth driver in the front and 18 tooth driver in the rear. Fortunately moving from the Ranger 900 to my ProXP just means swapping the drivers from the front tracks to rear and rear to front. This was just pure luck that I didnt have to buy new drive cogs. Started the process today and hope to have the final washers I need to finish before Thanksgiving.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


It does look like I'll gain about 3-4" in height based on where the hub centers are to the wheels.
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When removing the front drivers it's easiest to remove the rear wheels, even at full loose on the track adjustment there just isn't enough room to get the drive cogs past the lugs on the inside of the track. Take the time to remove these wheels, otherwise you'll be fighting it.
Wheel Tire Crankset Automotive tire Tread


The hub bolts have to stay torqued at 92ft lbs or it will wobble and wear the bearings. The washer should be replaced every time you remove and reinstall, it's designed to collapse and keep pressure on the bearing assemblies. Also, every bolt on these tracks should have loctite replaced when servicing is done. There's also a sleeve that is between the bearing sets that has to be held to align when pushing the hub through the bearings, use some grease on the hub to help that push through.

For quick reference when I'm doing my pre-ride inspection I drew arrows on the cog wheel bolt heads pointing to the hub so a quick visual will tell me if they're loosening up. This is quicker than running the torque wrench over all 4 tracks.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle brake Automotive design


Rear tracks are easier to do because when the tension adjuster is backed all the way out it gives you the room to pull the track up to remove the driver. Because the rear tracks are much heavier I did the swap with those on the ground. Will come back later this week as I make more progress and hopefully a trial run. These are technically 4 season tracks, not sure I'll run anywhere until the snow gets deep enough but will post video if I do. Just really looking forward to seeing just how much speed I can maintain with the RZR on tracks vs what I could get with the Ranger.
 

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Spent today getting ready for the transfer of the tracks which were on my Ranger 900. I ordered the ProXP anti-rotation brackets from ATVTRACKS.NET and they were kind enough to get me a couple of the parts I needed for maintenance that I'm doing during the transfer as well. Fortunately the track drivers can be swapped front to rear to meet the drive ratio on the ProXP.

For those that are unaware, the front wheels on any 4wd Polaris won't engage until there is a slip of the rear wheels even when the switch is in 4wd.
For the doubters, here's the point from the manual:
View attachment 685105

This is critical to understand when transferring tracks from one model to another. The drive ratio has to be accounted for or the front wheels won't be pulling and you'll be struggling to move (burning belts). To 'trick' the 4wd system into staying engaged and driving all 4 wheels the front and rear wheels need to spin at different speeds when moving. My Ranger had 18 tooth drive wheels in the front and 17 tooth drive cog wheels in the rear. The ratio on the ProXP and Turbo S call for a 17 tooth driver in the front and 18 tooth driver in the rear. Fortunately moving from the Ranger 900 to my ProXP just means swapping the drivers from the front tracks to rear and rear to front. This was just pure luck that I didnt have to buy new drive cogs. Started the process today and hope to have the final washers I need to finish before Thanksgiving.
View attachment 685100

It does look like I'll gain about 3-4" in height based on where the hub centers are to the wheels.
View attachment 685101

View attachment 685102

When removing the front drivers it's easiest to remove the rear wheels, even at full loose on the track adjustment there just isn't enough room to get the drive cogs past the lugs on the inside of the track. Take the time to remove these wheels, otherwise you'll be fighting it.
View attachment 685103

The hub bolts have to stay torqued at 92ft lbs or it will wobble and wear the bearings. The washer should be replaced every time you remove and reinstall, it's designed to collapse and keep pressure on the bearing assemblies. Also, every bolt on these tracks should have loctite replaced when servicing is done. There's also a sleeve that is between the bearing sets that has to be held to align when pushing the hub through the bearings, use some grease on the hub to help that push through.

For quick reference when I'm doing my pre-ride inspection I drew arrows on the cog wheel bolt heads pointing to the hub so a quick visual will tell me if they're loosening up. This is quicker than running the torque wrench over all 4 tracks.
View attachment 685104

Rear tracks are easier to do because when the tension adjuster is backed all the way out it gives you the room to pull the track up to remove the driver. Because the rear tracks are much heavier I did the swap with those on the ground. Will come back later this week as I make more progress and hopefully a trial run. These are technically 4 season tracks, not sure I'll run anywhere until the snow gets deep enough but will post video if I do. Just really looking forward to seeing just how much speed I can maintain with the RZR on tracks vs what I could get with the Ranger.
Can u run in High with the tracks, or u have to run in Low gear? When I saw some videos it seems like they were always in low cause they weren't going that fast
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Can u run in High with the tracks, or u have to run in Low gear? When I saw some videos it seems like they were always in low cause they weren't going that fast
There is a pretty steep gear reduction which slows things down a lot, but on roads, hard pack snow or ice, running in high is an option. The biggest issue is how much heat the rolling resistance creates in the CVT. I'm installing a gauge to monitor the belt temp, that's the best way to know when the resistance is too much and it's time to go back to low gear. Tracks are not meant to cover a lot of ground at high speed but they will get you into and out of places you didn't think you could go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 · (Edited)
Finally opened the package with the brackets from atvtracks.net and they were not packaged well. Probably didn't help that the USPS beat the snot out of the box but really the little bit of paper in the box was zero help for protecting the powdercoat.

I called them this morning and surprisingly they were in the shop. I asked about an exchange as this is unacceptable and while they were willing to do so they dont have any in stock and said it may be up to 10 weeks before they get some in. That's not a timeline I'm wanting to work with so I am going to recoat these to match the machine. I will be using a Ford color 'Blue Flame Metallic' in either an Imron or powdercoat. I know these will get abuse but it's not acceptable to me to install them beat up.

Font Material property Tints and shades Automotive exterior Auto part


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As I had the front tracks apart I started inspecting the components and noticed on the driver side the front Bogey was wearing on the rubber track tabs. This was wearing the inside of the wheel out.
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Then noticed the other bogey wheels on that side were also making contact...
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The track guides were worn down about .25" and that's not good for alignment. I ordered the replacement wheels and track today. Starting to lose track of everything I've ordered (pun intended).
The tracks guides should look like this with the squared edge and vertical rib.
Automotive tire Tread Tire Grey Style

But they have been worn do to the misalignment. The Hyfax on the bottom of the frame requires the tracks to rotate straight or it will cause the wear you can see on these, it will be replaced as well.
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So I continued to each track inspection and used a Roll-lok scotchbrite disc to clean up the hub surfaces. Since I'll be coating or painting I might as well address where the powdercoat was flaking on these. Also added the extension brackets to move the antirotation bars inboard on the rear tracks.
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For those who aren't familiar with how the track alignment is set on model 2016 and older Camso (Camoplast) UTV front tracks it is done by aligning the front tensioner axle assembly. This requires a special bracket to set the alignment, had to order that as well.
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Of course these parts orders come on the eve of the busiest e-commerce shopping days. Hopefully all these parts get here by the time the snow gets too deep to run tires... Just Parts 'N Hundreds at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
Still waiting on track parts to show up but the Razorback 3.1 showed up today so I started that install.
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Got the wiring done for power and dimming, used my own switch as the one supplied didn't match my style so it took a bit longer than I expected.
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Will get the IR sensor in tomorrow morning before we run south for a hockey game.

Also have the cluster mount from Razorback ordered, that looks like a sweet setup so I'm kinda anxious for it to get here. Hopefully some parts arriving soon as it feels like I'm wasting riding time now. Made a short video of the backlight modes:

Watch "Razorback 3.1 CVT Temp Gauge Light Test" on YouTube
 

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Still waiting on track parts to show up but the Razorback 3.1 showed up today so I started that install.
View attachment 685454

Got the wiring done for power and dimming, used my own switch as the one supplied didn't match my style so it took a bit longer than I expected.
View attachment 685455

Will get the IR sensor in tomorrow morning before we run south for a hockey game.

Also have the cluster mount from Razorback ordered, that looks like a sweet setup so I'm kinda anxious for it to get here. Hopefully some parts arriving soon as it feels like I'm wasting riding time now. Made a short video of the backlight modes:

Watch "Razorback 3.1 CVT Temp Gauge Light Test" on YouTube
What switch did you use and did you have to wire it differently?



Sent from my iPad using RZRForums.net
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 · (Edited)
What switch did you use and did you have to wire it differently?



Sent from my iPad using RZRForums.net
I used a Contura XIV I got from OTRATTW, it is a momentary switch that I had for a washer assembly I decided not to install.
The gauge is wired to send signal (power) through the momentary switch with the switch closing the circuit and that's what adjusts the brightness on the gauge.
  1. I wired the red feed for the switch (there are 2 wires in grey cable coming from the gauge) into the main power-in of the new switch.
  2. Wire the output (black wire in grey cable) to the negative in the gauge feed.
  3. Then wired the main power (wires in the black cable) off the keyed ignition from a pulse bar connection.
This allowed me to keep the blue backlight on the switch in the panel for night viewing. The switch that comes with the gauge does not have a backlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 · (Edited)
So I decided the best way to run the wiring to the IR sensor from the gauge was through the ROPS. I ran a fish tape from rear to front through the ROPS and after 4 tries I finally got it all the way through. It kept getting hung up on the wiring I ran for the chase light. The IR harness has a 90° end that hooks to the sensor and won't fit through the ROPS. So the next step was to pull some old solid strand wire to the back so I could tie the straight end of the IR harness to it and pull it through the ROPS. I did test fit first to make sure the threaded end of the IR cable would fit. Went through the opening fine when pushed into the ROPS from the outside...

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But when it came time to pull it all the way through the A-pillar opening was too too tight to fit it through because of the chase light harness. It took a lot of force but it did finally come through.
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Had just enough length to pull it through the upper dash to the gauge where it'll be mounted. the 15' length was just right for this location.
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I have a bracket coming from Razorback that bolts to the gauge housing and will hold this just above the tachometer. This is a really good looking gauge so I don't mind showing it off right there vs putting it in a pod.
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Had to remove the secondary clutch to drill the hole at the 1o'clock position to mount the sensor. When I put the clutch back together and tightened the bolt it broke. Some 4 letter words filled the shop.
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The threads are 1.25" back in the transmission shaft. Tough spot.
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So I used some electrical tape around the left handed bit to keep it centered when I drilled to get the extractor in. Took a few trial fits but finally got the size right to keep it centered while I drill the bolt in the shaft.
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Fortunately this was on reinstall so it did come out rather easily with the extractor.
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And the local ACE hardware had the exact size and grade I needed. For the $3.19 I bought 2 and will keep one in the emergency kit.
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The best location for the IR sensor ends up really close to the module above the CVT housing.
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Make sure you pay attention to it before you drill - any more than about 6mm center from the end of the belt guard rib on the underside and you won't be able to get the cable end on.
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This really was a frustrating delay, but other than missing the hockey game I was planning to go watch I'm glad I got it done. Snow is falling, UPS has track parts arriving Tuesday and Thursday so next weekend should be a good chance to run this and see what temps the belt will be at on tracks. Inspected the belt and after 2000 miles it still looked great and was within tolerance for width. Might change it at 3000 miles, but I do have 4 spares for track running - 1 brand new and 3 with low break in miles. Will see how they hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 · (Edited)
Mounted the rear tracks to get the brackets on, still need to get the new washer and hub bolt and some loctite on it but wanted to get my antirotation brackets on and fitted before I repair the lousy powder coat on them.
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There are 2 pieces on each side in the rear, they use the mount for the tire scrapers, just need to remove the plastic scraper and the track brackets sandwich that mount. Hardware gets reused.
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There is one 3/8" hole that needs to be drilled for a new bolt and reinforcement.
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The brackets that extend out the antirotation bars from the track frame make the bar line up really well. That should reduce binding and lessen the chance of broken bolts.
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Wife thinks it looks weird, I have to agree. 🤣
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Need to thank you for the visual and advice. I was able to get it installed and wired up, works as it should. I ran a momentary switch to the secondary battery tray for the override on this isolator, that way I can use the secondary to jumpstart if my start battery goes bad. But thanks a lot @BondoMan! I'm just glad I had all my leftover Ancor Marine heat shrink and cable ends. Wasn't waste on a prior project if I used them on this one. 👍


Also got my rear mud guards installed. (EDIT: Removed these as there was significantly more dust in the cab with them installed. Will put them back in for winter use only) Was able to make them out of ABS, it's 3/16 so probably a little thicker than they needed to be. Patterned some for my buddy's rides too.
View attachment 673396
Started with a Rotozip, took too long so I moved to a jigsaw which made the cuts quicker.
There is a big opening in the firewall where the gas tank is. I blocked that off, and it solved most of the dust in the cab issues.
 

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Would you care to elaborate more on the big opening where the gas tank is? Maybe a picture and what did you use to block it off, if you don’t mind??

Thanks!
Normally I would be glad to, but I've already put my seat and harnesses back in. Place the palm of your hand on the top of the tank just past the filler hose. Slide your hand towards the driver side, your hand will slide right under the gap in the firewall. The backside of that gap is the passenger side firewall. Better yet, pull your passenger seat out, take a flashlight and put it on the rear passenger tire facing the front of the machine. Turn off the lights and look at the firewall near the gas tank. You will see a 1" space between the tank and firewall.

I used black metal tape as a quick fix. Same tape the HVAC guys use on metal duct work. It's behind the passenger seat, and is not visible with the seat installed
 
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