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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Ended up having to elongate the mount holes in the BD mount to get it low enough to nearly touch the fascia and had to compress the angle of it about an addition 7.5° to get the angle proper. The mounts for the SS3 were still too high to get them where I could adjust them where they needed to aim so I had to do a relief bend to take up an additional 1/4" of height in the SS3 mount brackets. Picture dump here of what the lights look like on, ran wire harness external to the SS3 to ensure they could be aimed properly when installed. I'll post some bracket pictures and final video later, just ran out of time tonight to full install the harness.

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2019 RZR XP4 1000 “Doc”
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Looks mean!
 
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Agree
 
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Discussion Starter · #145 · (Edited)
Finally got home from the weekly travel and made some time to get the wiring finished and aim the headlights after adjusting the ride height. We put the DiodeDynamics SSC2 Pro and SS3 Max lights in video to show the difference, they are slightly higher temperature than the stock lights. I'd say not more than about 500K difference but slightly less yellow than the factory lighting in the color hue. Probably not enough for most people to notice.

Watch "2021 RZR Pro XP4 light test with Diodedynamics SS3 Max and SSC2 Pro in combo lens." on YouTube

Took the Admiral for a ride and had her do some filming for real world application. She approves of the addition. I'm pretty impressed with the new setup.

Watch "Diodedynamics pods while driving 2021 RZR Pro XP4 Ultimate" on YouTube
 

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Those SSC3s have great light throw. You ended up with a really clean look. Are you happy with the SSC2 for edge lighting?


I wish I was more thorough like you and took some before and after for the lens changes I did on my BD pods…. I will do a similar run through of current lighting soon as I can get it out and the lights a final adjustment.
 
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Discussion Starter · #147 · (Edited)
Those SSC3s have great light throw. You ended up with a really clean look. Are you happy with the SSC2 for edge lighting?


I wish I was more thorough like you and took some before and after for the lens changes I did on my BD pods…. I will do a similar run through of current lighting soon as I can get it out and the lights a final adjustment.
I am happy with the SSC2 Pro(for now), but thought about either getting the driving lens or flipping the combo lens around on the passenger side. The combo lens on these are indexed and DD tech told me I could get the lens flipped if I ground down the index tab in the housing. I think that may give me a little more light to the side without having to aim the beam too far out. Will run it for a bit and decide.

Let me know when you get pics or video of that BD setup, I'm curious as to how that works in the dunes and woods- bet it throws light a long way...
 

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i have those DD pods as well, but in full spot, and man do they really throw the light down road. I almost can't use them in the deep woods. The spots are bright but they create some nasty shadows. If i'm not leading they blind the people in front of me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
i have those DD pods as well, but in full spot, and man do they really throw the light down road. I almost can't use them in the deep woods. The spots are bright but they create some nasty shadows. If i'm not leading they blind the people in front of me.
I imagine the full spot lens throw super far, there's no way I'll be running with them on if I'm following even with the combo lens. Tons of light, exactly what I was hoping for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 · (Edited)
With the first snow it's time to start preparing for winter riding. Ordered a silicone weather strip to fill the gaps between the front and rear doors and made some makeshift blockers for the rear vents. One roll wasn't quite enough so another one is coming to finish it off. Just hoping to make it a little more weatherproof, I know it's not going to be sealed like a General, but will be sealed in general.

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The foam blockers are made from a floor mat, nothing special but should be functional.

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Also added some to better seal the gap at the front door and the dash, there was just enough gap that the wind would push through enough to feel. Figure this will help when it's subzero out.

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Discussion Starter · #151 · (Edited)
Ordered the Tusk seat heater kits from RockyMountainMCUTV and they arrived quickly. Think I'm going to use 2 kits on each front seat and order 2 more for the rear lower seats.
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Found a few minutes before we head to dinner to get started on the first seat this afternoon.
View attachment 684522
The pads will more than cover each section.
View attachment 684523

Fortunately there's no staples on these so it'll go quicker. There are 7 rivets that hold the bottom 2 cushions on.
View attachment 684524

And 4 rivets that hold the top sides on.
View attachment 684525

The bottom bar has to come out to remove the seat release mechanism to get to the 7th rivet on the rear lower piece. I took the plastic cap off and used a 17mm impact socket to hammer it out.
View attachment 684528

View attachment 684529

Here's the hidden rivet for the lower rear piece.
View attachment 684530

The front lower piece has a retainer that it slides out of once the rivets are drilled out, removal is quite easy.
View attachment 684526
View attachment 684527

While the rear lower piece has 2 retaining tabs and will be lifted toward the top of the seat to remove once all 5 rivets are out of that piece.
View attachment 684531

The covers are held to the plastic backing by a plastic arrow tab that slides into a slot and once the first one comes loose the rest are fairly easy. I just used a 90° pick to motivate them out.
View attachment 684532

The opening in the curve of the seat is just 2 piece fed through and hooked on the back side.
View attachment 684533

These are still fairly damp and since I have the heat on in the shop I'm going to let them sit overnight to dry out.
View attachment 684534

We have to be across the state for dinner so I'll start up again tomorrow and update this process as I get it done. Good thing is this will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 · (Edited)
Found a few minutes before we head to dinner to get started on the first seat this afternoon.
View attachment 684522

View attachment 684523

Fortunately there's no staples on these so it'll go quicker. There are 7 rivets that hold the bottom 2 cushions on.
View attachment 684524

And 4 rivets that hold the top sides on.
View attachment 684525

The bottom bar has to come out to remove the seat release mechanism to get to the 7th rivet on the rear lower piece. I took the plastic cap off and used a 17mm impact socket to hammer it out.
View attachment 684528

View attachment 684529

Here's the hidden rivet for the lower rear piece.
View attachment 684530

The front lower piece has a retainer that it slides out of once the rivets are drilled out, removal is quite easy.
View attachment 684526
View attachment 684527

While the rear lower piece has 2 retaining tabs and will be lifted toward the top of the seat to remove once all 5 rivets are out of that piece.
View attachment 684531

The covers are held to the plastic backing by a plastic arrow tab that slides into a slot and once the first one comes loose the rest are fairly easy. I just used a 90° pick to motivate them out.
View attachment 684532

The opening in the curve of the seat is just 2 piece fed through and hooked on the back side.
View attachment 684533

These are still fairly damp and since I have the heat on in the shop I'm going to let them sit overnight to dry out.
View attachment 684534

We have to be across the state for dinner so I'll start up again tomorrow and update this process on my build thread as I get it done. Good thing is this will work.
For some reason pictures didnt show up on above post. If you want to see them in-line click here.
 

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You have so much more ambition than I do. I was excited to put the Desertcraft spring bases under my seats....
 
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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
You have so much more ambition than I do. I was excited to put the Desertcraft spring bases under my seats....
Nothing wrong with that! Truthfully, the Weather is my motivator. Season of snow is coming and my chores outside are getting wrapped up. I just want to be ready to throw the tracks on and venture out, while keeping the Admiral warm and happy if it's 20 below. 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
So I made the decision to just do 2 pads or 1 set of heaters per seat, I was thinking about using 2 sets to do the bolsters on the back. Those can wait as I want to see how these perform before I add more electric draw unnecessarily. These are 50w sets and because I don't know if these can be cut in the middle I'm taking the safe route and use both pads in the lower back piece horizontally. On a normal seat these would be installed with the length of each seat.

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Because the seat cover has to go through the cushion to connect and stay taught, that access hole will be the alignment point for the long side of each pad as they're installed.
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A dry fit confirmed that this would be the best use instead of making a cut in the middle and compromising the integrity of the heating elements.
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Removed the backing on the pads and stuck them down with the connectors facing inboard toward the console.
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Reinstalled the cover and while this makes the velcro on the back of the fabric useless the material clipped through the middle of the foam keeps it just as tight as it was prior to the removal.
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Here is a before picture showing that piece isn't really held very tightly from the factory :
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After looking through my rivet selection the closest thing I have is in stainless and I don't know that I'll get the spread on install to retain these covers well enough. I looked up the parts diagram and ordered the 7621479 rivets from Polaris to reassemble, hopefully those are here this week. I'm installing the switches on the center console at the rear of the shifter plate. Will be an easier location to access for fuses and relay replacement if they fail as I can pull the cupholder to access them. I'm planning on replacing the connectors Tusk uses with weather pack connectors so it's easier to remove and hopefully will prevent moisture issues when I hose down the interior. More to follow this week once the rivets arrive...
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 · (Edited)
Tracking has the rivets arriving Thursday so I'll finish the seat reassembly then. I took some time to get the switches mounted on the console. The ignition feed on the seat heater wiring is being controlled by a switch on my dash (Trunk Monkey). The redundancy should mitigate any accidental heating in the summer months, the switch location I chose may lead to cups knocking the switch on in the summer. The main power and ground on the relay harness is direct to the 2nd battery under the passenger seat. My isolator will switch automatically between the batteries so it will contain any discharge to that battery in the event a relay fails.
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For the rear seats I decided to just use 1 kit and have both of the lower seats heated off of 1 switch. Those should provide enough added warmth back there and frankly I dont want to have to unplug the seat back every time I'm removing it for service. I would just add the heat to the back pieces in the event I feel it's warranted and wire in another harness. Only using 1 kit for both rear seats just seems like a better solution. So the rear seat bases will come out tonight to get the heating elements installed. I'm motivated to get the seats wrapped up now as the track brackets arrived last night:
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More pictures to follow when the rear seats are done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Rear lower seat installs were a breeze, did both in under 20 minutes. There's 3 rivets in each one, the heating pads fit these very well.
Now just I need to let them dry out and get them riveted back onto the bases.
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I'm only doing the lowers on the back seats with 1 common switch to power both seats through 1 harness and relay. This will save the wattage draw on the stator and most importantly I won't have to mess with disconnecting the wires from the seat backs every time I do any service. Servicing removal will happen more often in a given year than people sitting back there in the winter.
 

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Tracking has the rivets arriving Thursday so I'll finish the seat reassembly then. I took some time to get the switches mounted on the console. The ignition feed on the seat heater wiring is being controlled by a switch on my dash (Trunk Monkey). The redundancy should mitigate any accidental heating in the summer months, the switch location I chose may lead to cups knocking the switch on in the summer. The main power and ground on the relay harness is direct to the 2nd battery under the passenger seat. My isolator will switch automatically between the batteries so it will contain any discharge to that battery in the event a relay fails.
View attachment 684713

For the rear seats I decided to just use 1 kit and have both of the lower seats heated off of 1 switch. Those should provide enough added warmth back there and frankly I dont want to have to unplug the seat back every time I'm removing it for service. I would just add the heat to the back pieces in the event I feel it's warranted and wire in another harness. Only using 1 kit for both rear seats just seems like a better solution. So the rear seat bases will come out tonight to get the heating elements installed. I'm motivated to get the seats wrapped up now as the track brackets arrived last night:
View attachment 684714

More pictures to follow when the rear seats are done.
What dual battery kit did u use or u built your own kit. I thought I might have read it way back in the post?
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
What dual battery kit did u use or u built your own kit. I thought I might have read it way back in the post?
I used the Polaris kit, and laughed at myself for what I got in the kit vs what I paid. I have a ton of cable and could've made it myself. I figure the price of the kit with the retainers and cable ends already installed saved me the price in time, so maybe it's a wash. 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Rivets arrived today so I finished up the wiring runs and reassembled the back seat to do a test fit of how the wires will run to the seats and what length I'll have for the rear to tumble. I decided to remove the rear cushions again (only 3 rivets) and drill the plastic to route the wires through. There just wasn't a way to get them where they wouldn't be victim of a snag in the future. With how short the leads are on the harness I may extend them as I should probably change these to a weatherproof connector. Been a long day so I'm calling it for the night, will get it wrapped up tomorrow after work.

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Switch location was the best of the bad spots, I actually chose to put it here because that spot already had impact marks.
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