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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I was feeling good about wiring my horn relay thought my B&M shifter button, centering my steering wheel and moving the speaker wire zip ties from the previous owner so they were less visible.... meanwhile you created a climate controlled planetarium.... Looking like another killer build, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Scott, having fun is what this is all about right? You should be glad you made progress and improvements, there's a sense of satisfaction that I enjoy when tasks are done.

Speaking of which, the final connection for the heater install was road blocked. There is a connection elbow on the water valve for the hose to the heater that was missing in my kit. I searched everywhere and it comes preinstalled on the valve itself. But alas, it's not there.
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Called the dealer and they're trying to figure out how to get one. They dont have any kits in stock and the galactic backorder continues for these. So hopefully they can dig far enough with Polaris to get one coming. The same elbows are attached to the other hose end for attaching to the heater unit. The one for this end isn't preinstalled presumably because that hose needs to be cut shorter for the 2 seater install.
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So in searching for a sense of satisfaction and completion I decided to switch out my shift knob too. Just wired it to the blue courtesy lights.
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That's a cool knob. Used the B&M Hill Killer gated shifter for the first time today. Took about 5 minutes to get the shift cable set for it and I really like it. Even just moving around the yard to load in the trailer was better just being able to push forward for reverse or pull back for low. Nice and positive.
 
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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
Couple of small updates this evening. Polaris got with the supplier to send the missing elbow for the water valve directly to me. So while it's apart I ran the wiring for the Rednęck Whips and did a test fit of the rear bumper to see where I wanted to mount my reverse lights.

After being indecisive about whip height I went with the 2' Stacker Extreme that comes with the sync harness and spring base. Used a pool noodle to estimate the height visually prior to ordering and it works great. I wanted to be able to run into the trailer (7'6" ceiling) without removing the whips.
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Also took some time to test fit the bumper and get a good mount location for the reverse lights. I'm using some Eagle Eye LEDs mounted in the angled plastic setup to shine outward a bit. The center light in the chase light is wired for the reverse as well.
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Eagle Eyes are pretty low key but put out a decent amount of usable light at night. Once I get the taillight harnesses made and installed for the chase light I'll get a video of them all operating. Talked with Cycle Worx and have a low amp micro switch coming to trigger the relay for reverse lights directly from the transmission.

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Even though the hitch I bought says it won't be compatible with the Polaris rear bumper it appears as though it will work. If it needs modification to the lower tie plate on the bumper then so be it. I like the more complete look with this bumper filling in the space between the tires and rear fenders. Will modify the bumper if needed to make it work with the KFI hitch receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
In order to get the chase light to operate with running and brake lights I made a harness for the taillight plug to provide feed. The connectors are MetriPack 150 style 4 wire (only 3 are used).
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Wired it as a Y harness for now. The weatherpak connector for the chase light trigger won't fit through the outlet of the ROPS. It will stay this way unless I add turn signal function in the future.
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Is the unused 4th wire the turn signal or will you interrupt the appropriate brake light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Is the unused 4th wire the turn signal or will you interrupt the appropriate brake light?
Didnt install a 4th wire as there doesnt appear to be a pin for it in the taillamps, nor was there a wire in the factory harness. I'd just interrupt the brake light feed with the flasher relay. Not sure if I want to bother adding signals and apply for street legal title or not.

ORV have the right of way on the shoulder of all county roads. The only reason I'm considering it is because the national forest service has closed some of the forestry roads to ORV. However if I had a license plate then it would be a highway vehicle so there wouldn't be any problem if we went down a road that wasn't 'open' to ORV traffic. Michigan law allows to have the title reassigned as an assembled roadster after passing inspection by law enforcement agencies verifying the required equipment. Then a plate can be issued as long as proper liability insurance is carried.
 

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Double post
 

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Thanks, I'm just looking at setting up turn signals and was not sure how people are using the stock lights. I'm street legal in Idaho (summer trip this year) but need them for Utah (maybe 2022). I'm going to run the combo fang lights for the front.
 
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I think I'm going to use this to convert my current lights to also be turn signals, what do you think?

 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
I think I'm going to use this to convert my current lights to also be turn signals, what do you think?

I'm not sure that'll work Scott, if you want to use the stock lights as signals. Have you pulled the taillight plug on your machine to see the inputs? If it's like mine you'll have 3 feeds on the light assembly. The common ground is 1 of the 3 feeds and then one feed for tail and 1 for stop. You could just wire a flasher relay into the wiring and connect that to a switch. I'll message you with a diagram if you can confirm the pigtail leads on the light side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Spent today getting all the switches wired in and running leads for the few electrical projects left on the whiteboard.
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Pretty sure I'm going to have to replace the switch for the winch. Edit: replaced it with a DTDP switch wired for one pole. I used the one that came with the Viper Elite winch kit, but the switches I ordered from OTRATTW are lower independent and blue lighting. This will bug me so Monday I'll call out there and get one coming. Done
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**The Contura XIV switches do have a little bit of radius on the top and bottom edges of the rockers and seem to catch on the tight tolerance of the stock switch openings. I had to shave the top and bottom of the rocker plates to get them to throw freely. Shaved the edges carefully with a utility knife on one and it moved better. Then decided the bench grinder would be quicker for the rest with less likelihood of me needing stitches.
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The mess of wires on the passenger footwell are for some courtesy lighting I'll be working on next week. If it doesn't get too frustrating the rest of the interior will look like it is straight out of a Tron movie.
 

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Tony, I have a relay and switch and realize I would still need these, just was thinking of using the 3 to 2 converter at the rear and intercepting the stop light feeds at each tail light. Mine taillights are three connector also. I have tapped into the right one for my LED whips and license place and only had Ground, Tail and Brake.

Love Trunk Monkey, he is local to the PNW!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Decided to go after the hitch receiver and bumper install. The bumper is from Polaris, the low coverage option, and the receiver it from KFI. On the website for KFI it said not compatible with the Polaris bumper. That is true... sort of.

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The picture above shows the square shape of the KFI receiver, it's a very stout piece. The plate on the machine that holds the radius arms in place is not square, that's where the fitment issue comes in.
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Getting the 4 suspension rods lined up takes extra hands, pry bar, alignment bar, and a jack operator. Plan accordingly, doing it without help is an exercise in futility.
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The square plate on the receiver is about 1" wider in the area that counts. This shows where it was hitting.
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So instead of notching the plate I opted to see if the bumper could be manipulated into place. Used a PortaPower ram to spread the tubes. On a cold push you want to take your time, I did 4 total moves of the ram so I wouldnt push out of square or break the welds on the lower tie plate on the bumper.
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The problem with spreading is that the holes in the frame won't line up once it's past the plate. I pondered cutting the ends off to rotate and mount a little wider. Also thought about cutting a relief in the reciever plate, but I dont want to deal with repainting or powder coating parts right now. So I opted to come up with another solution.
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Each hole was 7/8" and 1" off respectively.
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My concern about the mounts being wider was clearance at the suspension arm. I jacked the rear to get the wheels off the ground so I could check how much room I had a full droop.
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Had just a slight amount of room to slide a piece of paper into. That means it's not interfering so it should be just fine on the rare occasion we get the suspension to fully extend.
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Continued on next post:
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Made a 2" notch in a 2x4 with a hole saw, unfortunately the tube is 1 7/8 but it worked enough to motivate the tubes in about 1/4". I assume the bung for the mount goes into the tube a bit more than what would let me compress the tube wall against the hitch plate.
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So I looked at the mounting hardware and thought maybe I could reverse the hardware setup and make it work. The plate nuts are probably not necessary for a normal install as there is enough room to get behind the frame here.
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So I added two washers to the bolt and inserted it from the inside of the frame out, that's necessary to keep the bolt from hitting the suspension at full articulation. Could use a shorter bolt but didnt bother. Then hammer bent the bar around the assembly and frame.
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This isn't for crash protection so I'm not overly concerned about the way this ends up surviving a major impact, it's more for plastic protection from the occasional brush and trees in reverse.

Clearance for the rear tie plate is pretty good.
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I'm happy with the look for now and the functionality of having a D-Ring hitch will be good for the rainy season.
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That's cool Tony, funny when I had the Ranger I used to say it was the Ranger thant acted like a RZR, now I have a RZR that acts like a Ranger... Using the heck out of our trailer hitch while visiting the Family Ranch and clearing brush and down trees... I was amazed at how well the Ranger did for us and now I'm really happy the RZR doesn't mind working a bit!

672621
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
That's cool Tony, funny when I had the Ranger I used to say it was the Ranger thant acted like a RZR, now I have a RZR that acts like a Ranger... Using the heck out of our trailer hitch while visiting the Family Ranch and clearing brush and down trees... I was amazed at how well the Ranger did for us and now I'm really happy the RZR doesn't mind working a bit!

View attachment 672621
I'm in the same place for sure, the ranger putting up mid-70s speed numbers was a lot of fun but scary because it wasn't meant to do that. There is something to be said about having a good bit of utility function with the performance here. I'll use it occasionally for some trail maintenance. The hitch will come in handy mostly for when I venture first through the muddy trails and have to pull my buddies out. 😎

My dealer came through with the missing pieces for the heater install. Got that wrapped up tonight.
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Had to remove the water valve assembly to get the clip in, but otherwise it is ready for coolant.
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How's your offroad trailer project coming, you and the boy start on that yet??
 

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I have cut the outer frame, crossmembers and spine. 2x2 1/8 wall frame and 2x1 1/8 wall crossmember square tube. I have a 2k axle and 4x4in hub to 4x156 adapters so I can run Polaris wheels. Just trying to decide if I want to make it UTV only and do a 4 link with some Ranger front shocks or use 2k leafs and make it road worthy. Also think I'm going with a car top tent now. Probably start fabing after our summer trips. We have UTV Takeover Oregon next month, then St. Anthony's in July and Dunefest in Oregon at the end of July and hunting at the family ranch in August. Will do a write up. I think it will be a cool little trailer.

It's great you have a good dealer. I actually traded my Ranger in on my RZR as I didn't want to deal with selling it. Then the dealer called and asked if I could help the guy that bought it because they had never seen the stuff I have done on it so I ended up working with the guy that bought it anyway lol. Nice guy and loves Rangy. So that being said when I did have a gauge cluster act up and start resetting it's clock every time I started it and showing random fuel levels 4 months after I got the RZR used from them the dealer covered it for me, I didn't expect that, just was hoping to get a good deal. Now they have a customer for life.

Someday we need to meet up at a mid point, how far are your from Yellowstone?
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
holy crap.... my brain hurts just reading all the stuff you've done lol... keep it up.
Thanks, it's getting there - this is mostly just the cosmetic stuff. Try to hold off until I get to the performance stuff and clutch tuning before you get too much brain pain. 😁

I have a few more electrical things on the whiteboard that I'll try to wrap up this weekend. Will post a short video to show how it comes together.
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My brother in law has a large dip tank for hydrographics so I'm going to take the center hood cover over to his place next week. I ordered some candied blue carbon fiber hydro film yesterday and am hoping it looks decent with the factory color.
 
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