I don't think the height will affect the articulation, that is controlled by the tie rods.(I think)

 

Can you cycle the suspension with out the spring (shock only) and see if it hits ... you may need a machine a spacer for under the hiem? I thoght I saw a spacer in some of the other kits!

Here is a pic
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-76800471066344_2089_7332292

 

That spacer/coupler looks similar to the one in the Super Atv pic above. Thanks, I'll look into that....

 

isn't that coupler for the other end? at the rack or are you referring to the misalignment spacers?

 

Yes ... misalignment spacer


bolting it without, would not be my first choice ... but if Stupid ATV says to ...then go head! LOL!

 

Disregard......Just talked to Super ATV and they said that the extension and heim is all I need. The heim bolts directly to the knuckle. THANKS

 

the pivot point of the heim needs to be exactly the same height as the pivot point of the original tie rod end. so use a spacer, it's not articulation that gets screwed up it's bump steer

 

Good info. The bolt and hole is now 1/2". I went down to Ace and picked up a 1/2" ID spacer and cut it down to 1/4" Length. Problem solved. Same pivot point with no articulation binding anywhere in the stroke.

Thanks

 

Good point ,martymoe

 

If that is what they give you for there kit I would be a little concerned. That junky looking heim should have miss-alignment spacers. I wouldnt be surprised if this becomes another issue.

 

i think the heim will be fine, but what's up with those couplers where they tie into the end of the rack.. is that really what you're supposed to stretch a boot over?
does it come with franken boots?

 

I wondered that too. But, if you look close, I think the boot just goes over the threaded end and nut. Looks like there is a ring the boot will go over and stop there. Be curious to see if that is right or not.

 

when i did mine i started with a big crazy looking thing like that but what i wound up doing in the end is machining a clevis out of round bar that is threaded on one end and the clevis on the other, the heim slips inside of it, and it just fits inside of the rack.. (the mounting face from the inside of the rack goes inside of the houseing otherwise you lose some of your steering range)
the first try was out of sheetmetal and had issues with coming loose, but the second try is much better. it's a pita to make, but it is much cleaner and works better.
there are several clevis's on the midwest controls site, i wouldnt be suprised if you dug around a little there if you couldnt come up with a bolt in replacement.
if i remember right the thread in the rack is a M14x1, but dont hold me to that..

 

wonder why they put misalignment spacers on the clevis end? If properly installed it should not need them & the clevis could be alot smaller.

 

nope you dont, if you set that heim angle right it will go through the full motion with a clevis just the width of the heim.. mine is that way, i have verified it and put a bunch of miles on it.
the angle isnt straight up and down as i remember its canted just a little.

 

I believe my original tie rod ends were below the knuckle.....should these heims go above?

I've seen conflicting info on other threads regarding this.

 

I put the same "Super ATV'' kit on my RZR. The heim along with the highmisalignment spacers and the U bracket bolt into the rack. Yes the boot stretchs over the jam nut once it is tight against the rack. It is dificult to do but it will go. You use your stock outer rod ends. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty vague. But that is the way I did it and it works great.