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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I don't have my ear protection on I hear a tinny noise like metal marbles bouncing in the rear end. It only happens in 2 wheel drive and goes away when the 4 wheel drive is engaged. This happens both under power or coasting. Any clue as to what this could be?
 

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When I don't have my ear protection on I hear a tinny noise like metal marbles bouncing in the rear end. It only happens in 2 wheel drive and goes away when the 4 wheel drive is engaged. This happens both under power or coasting. Any clue as to what this could be?
Could be a few things. The 800 has a major defect in rear diff. The pinion nut is known to back off and blow up the diff. Could be the nut backing off but it could be a chip broke off the gears. Hard to say. Really can only guess unless you pull the diff and open it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did the pinion nut years ago. I was hoping it might be something to do with the prop shaft.
The sound goes away when the 4 wheel drive is turned on.
 

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I wouldn't think the prop shaft would sound like marbles. Jack it up,put it on blocks and have someone hut the gas so you can zero in on where it's coming from. Could have a blown wheel bearing or CV.
 

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Don't know why only in 2WD but drain the oil in the main gear case and check for suspended metal in the oil. There are bolts that can break off that hold the parking flange in place. This happened to me and almost destroyed my transmission. What can happen is the bolt head can get pinched between the reverse gear and case then punch a hole in the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't know why only in 2WD but drain the oil in the main gear case and check for suspended metal in the oil. There are bolts that can break off that hold the parking flange in place. This happened to me and almost destroyed my transmission. What can happen is the bolt head can get pinched between the reverse gear and case then punch a hole in the case.
I will check it. Thanks.
 

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Did the pinion nut years ago. I was hoping it might be something to do with the prop shaft.
The sound goes away when the 4 wheel drive is turned on.
I had this exact sound and turned out to be the U joints in the prop shaft had play. The sound was only at slower speeds and would disappear when in 4 wheel drive too. I replaced mine and the chinking sound went away. It is one of many possibilities but you on the right track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had this exact sound and turned out to be the U joints in the prop shaft had play. The sound was only at slower speeds and would disappear when in 4 wheel drive too. I replaced mine and the chinking sound went away. It is one of many possibilities but you on the right track.
I think you are right.
 

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I had this exact sound and turned out to be the U joints in the prop shaft had play. The sound was only at slower speeds and would disappear when in 4 wheel drive too. I replaced mine and the chinking sound went away. It is one of many possibilities but you on the right track.
See if he would of said clunking I would of said u joints but he said sounded like marbles. Lol I can't see it sounding like marbles but anything is possible. Makes sense since it goes away in 4 wheel drive cause if it was the diff it would be constant.
 

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Drive shafts with worn splines or joints will make all kinds of "marbles" sounds, if not under a load. I had a bad spline and a bad ujoint within a few hours from new. Ended up my shaft was not balanced from the factory and caused the premature wear of those parts. I would suggest jacking it all 4 wheels up in neutral and turning/inspecting the drive shaft.
 

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Drive shafts with worn splines or joints will make all kinds of "marbles" sounds, if not under a load. I had a bad spline and a bad ujoint within a few hours from new. Ended up my shaft was not balanced from the factory and caused the premature wear of those parts. I would suggest jacking it all 4 wheels up in neutral and turning/inspecting the drive shaft.
When my u joints went out it sounded like thumping and clunking. Splines were fine on input and output shafts but the front yoke splines were worn flat. Shaft is solid after new joints and front yoke. Put greasable joints in so hopefully they last longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got into it today and found a couple of things.
One is that the front u-joint is broken. Has anyone used the Moog 338 ( has a grease fitting )? It is only $9.00 on eBay. Super ATV's non-greaseable is $41.00.
The other thing I found was a noise in the secondary clutch. Some clanks at a low rpm and stops as it speeds up. I turned it by hand.
 

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Got into it today and found a couple of things.
One is that the front u-joint is broken. Has anyone used the Moog 338 ( has a grease fitting )? It is only $9.00 on eBay. Super ATV's non-greaseable is $41.00.
The other thing I found was a noise in the secondary clutch. Some clanks at a low rpm and stops as it speeds up. I turned it by hand.
Yes moog 338 are good u joints. I used them. They are solid.
 

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In the secondary there are rollers that move up one side of the helix during acceleration and down the other side on decel. If there are clanks it is usually too much play in the rollers and they've worn out. These are NOT replaceable on the Rapid Reaction style secondary but they are on the 08 style that everyone calls the HD version.

 

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Got into it today and found a couple of things.
One is that the front u-joint is broken. Has anyone used the Moog 338 ( has a grease fitting )? It is only $9.00 on eBay. Super ATV's non-greaseable is $41.00.
The other thing I found was a noise in the secondary clutch. Some clanks at a low rpm and stops as it speeds up. I turned it by hand.
You might can find that local if you don't want to wait.
 
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