Shoot Nate a pm!

 

I would recommend buying the repair manual or downloading it and reading that section before you start. Always nice to have an idea of the procedure and all the torque specs.

 

Got the Polaris manual downloaded now, that helps.

 

Yes definetly get a copy of the repair manual. It is a must have for the cam install. It'll walk you through everything you need. I printed mine out so i could have it right beside me without having to have the laptop out there, But it used a ton of ink and paper. But i'm glad i did it.

 

All you need is the service manual for the cam install.

What fuel controller did you get? If it is the dobeck style then you just plug it into the injector harness above the clutch cover match the right colors, then connect it to ground. No need to adjust any numbers on it, and you can mount it on the backside of the center console.

 

Its pretty simple really.

At minimum, remove bed, and then the brace over the valve cover.

Remove stator cover, line up Top Dead Center per manual. Remove Valve cover. Remove cam chain tensioner. Remove cam caps, remove cams and use a bungy cord or something to hold the cam chain up and out of the way.

Swap cam gears to new cams (use new bolts per manual and torque to spec).

To get a good base clearance spec (per Nate's suggestion), add .381mm to whatever shim is in it, and reinstall new shims, then cams, then cam caps and TQ to spec (don't install chain yet). For example on shims, mine had a 255 shim on one valve...which is 2.55mm. Add 2.55+.381=2.931 and since the shims are in .5 increments, I replaced the 255 with a 290 (aka 2.90). After doing this to all 8 shims, reinstall cams, cam caps and tq to spec as stated above and check clearances. Spec is .005" on Intake and .009" exhaust. YOU WILL have to do this a few times, and expect it to get you frustrated! Its the most time consuming part of the job but its also VERY critical that its done properly! Once this part is done, the rest is a breeze!

The shim part took forever or me cause I had to go get different shims cause mine was a little loose compared to some, and the shims I needed weren't in the kit I got. But after checking, re-checking and installing several different shims, I got it right! Nate says a good rule is: Example- intake spec .005".....so a .005 feeler gauge should go, .006 should go tight, but a .007 should NOT fit. The drag on a feeler gauge can be described differently by everyone, so this is the way Nate told me to do it.

After cams are clearanced properly, re-align cams (I marked my gears first) and install chain. I stuck the exhaust cam in first, then intake with the gears already on them (contrary to the manuals instructions). Once I verified everything was lined up and correct, I reinstalled the cam tensioner and TQ to spec. Roll it over a few times (be sure spark plugs are removed) and make sure it still lines up TDC and cams are correct.

Once that's all good, reinstall valve cover, and stator cover (w.new gasket) and TQ to spec. Reinstall spark plugs, bed, and then you can start on the Power Commander and Exhaust! Those are real simple.....and instructions are in the power commander box. The exhaust is pretty self explanatory and there are videos online for it.

PM if you need help!

 

Well put, who needs a Manuel with those instructions. I wonder what a shop would charge to do that? For those of us that don't want to attempt open heart surgery.

 

Thanks, got the cams in, measured back lash, now I'll get pick up shims on Monday.

The fuel controller is the Alba one.

No idea where to start with the clutch tuning either. running 31" Outlaws.

 

I been fighting the clutching on mine all day. Still not where I want it.....and thats on stock tires. Maybe it will be easier on big tires?

 

I doubt it will be any easier. It took me a few days to get my clutch dialed in for 30" bighorns. Now I've got stage 2 cams on the way and will get to enjoy clutch tuning again. Yay


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Well its like this for me......

-I start with the recommended setup from Alba.....(black bolt+2 thick washers in heel, silver bolt+ 2 thin washers in middle) and I get about 7800rpm off the line, ad climb to 8300 in a few seconds and hold till 70 and let off.

-I install a gold bolt+1 thick+1thin washer in heel, silver bolt+thin washer in middle, and silver bolt no washer in tip. Again, hits about 7800 off line, but now climbs to 8500-8550 till 70.

-This time I remove ALL weight from heel and leave everything else as it was, and run it. This time I am bouncing off rev limiter out of the hole, and holding 8850-9000 all the way to 70 and touching the rev limiter every couple seconds while accelerating.

-Go back, install gold bolt+ 1 thin washer. Back to 8000 off the line, but getting 8600ish all the way to 70mph.

-Go back, install silver bolt+ 1 thin washer in heel and retest. On pavement Im hitting the limiter every so often from a dead stop, and carrying 8700-8800 all the way to 70mph.

At this point, I stopped.....had been working on it all day. Im at a loss here as to what to o next. It seems if I get the bottom end good, I get too much on top. If I get the top end down where its good, I have no hole-shot.

Any thoughts??? I'm Really getting pretty frustrated with this clutch deal. Its taking as long as the cams did!!!

 

You were close to start. Seems like your colors are different from mine so i'll talk grams instead. Go back to your 1st setup (black bolt+2 thick washers in heel, silver bolt+ 2 thin washers in middle). Typically, you'd like to see it hit the rpms just about where you making peak power and hold around that rpm with a little over rev at the top. In this case with the stage II's, thats about 8k to 8200. Similar to where the stock cams make power but the stocks fall off thru a pull where the albas don't.

Anyway, from the 1st setup, pull about a gram off the heel (should get you close to 8k quick) and add about a half gram to the middle or the tip (should bring your top rpms down just a bit. 8300 is not bad as it is. If you start over revving too quick in the higher rpm range and start hitting the limiter too soon, then move a half gram from the middle to the tip. That should slow that down a bit. I've found that the middle and tip positions affect each other quite a bit depending on your driving style. Heavier weight in the middle always affected me quite a bit with backshifting when i was on and off the gas a lot in tight trails. Too much weight there slowed it down and made it lazy cause it wasn't backshifting fast enough. Hope that helps...

 

Rogue,

Thanks for the help!

Nate told me peak power on the cams is 8400rpm's, and flattens out after that.....so I was shooting for around 8500 just to give me a bit of extra depending on load.

That said, my kit is setup as follows:
Black bolt=3.5g
Gold bolt=2.5g
Silver bolt=.8g
Thick washer=1g
Thin washer=.5g
Bare weight=56g

So right now, Ive got 1.3 in heel, 1.3 in middle, and .8 in the tip. If I wanna stay around or above 8400, what ya think??

 

Got my cams and header installed. I didn't have any left over parts so I'm calling it a successful install. All together took me about 6 hours. Shims were a bitch. That took a good 2 hrs. It sounds mean now. Not sure if the header or cams just the sound but its deep now. I made a few runs with the pcv and auto tune going. Gonna get it dialed in tomorrow.

I have a clutch question though. Does it make sense for me to need to lighten the clutch weights? I assumed I'd need to go heavier to get the rpm higher and belt grip back. It's only getting to around 7400rpm out of the hole.


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Well, I was told less weight=more RPM's......but apparently this doesnt apply exactly to bug tires?

Its a learning curve. I would try adding a silver bolt with a small washer to the heel, and see what it does. Only make one change at a time that way you know what to UNDO if its not what you like! Just remember, your prob going to do like I do and have the weights out like 15 times, and it gets frustrating after a while!

Just remember....heel=bottom end, middle hole=mid range, and tip=top end as far as weight changes. However, they all seen to affect one another as well.....its not cut and dry.

Mine still is setup as it was above....and mine runs pretty strong, but I find when im in 4wd and hammer it from a roll, I hit the limiter a few times....so clearly I need to make some minor changes yet.

 

Yeah less weight slows the up shift so you get more rpms down low. I had my clutch tuned pretty good for 30" bighorns but now I'm starting over. I have the dalton clutch kit so I guess I'm on my own with this one. If you're hitting the limiter at all you're losing power. You need more weight in the flyweights to speed up the up shift a little


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Sorry i didn't get back with your last post Vtec. How is yours doing? I found that my stage II's hit the peak at 8200 and were flat from there, thats why i made my recommendation. If your shooting for 8400, i think that may be a little high. The soft limiter is 8500 unless your using the PCV with rev extend. I like to come in a little below the peak so it comes in to peak power soon after and then overrev it a bit past that. If your hitting the limiter afther hammering it from a roll (assuming your talking from say 20mph or so) then you may need a little more in the middle. Are you using the rooster weights from Nate? My base weight started at 52g empty.

Your right about having the weights out also. I've had them out a bunch of times and still experimenting. I made another change and waiting to get out again and test it. For my style of riding and terrain, I was sitting on 3g heel, no mid weight and 4g tip. It was still lazy on the rpm out of the hole and turning too many rpm to fast up top, so now i've changed it to 2.2g heel, .8g mid and 4.5g tip. Basically same overall weight just different position. Just goes to show the vast differences in setups. From mid range on up, it pulls hard, but thats where my setup really makes power though. I'm also running different primary and secondary springs though so there's a nother wrench in the works.

 

Ken,

Mine is still as I left it in last post. Im well into 8600+ while trying to accelerate, so I wanna start by adding weight to the middle and see what happens. I would prefer more low to mid power than top end, cause I rarely do top speed runs.....unless of course I'm clutch tuning!

I had it in my mind based on the instructions to try and NOT add weight to the tip, but I think that's going to be impossible. It really wants to get into the high RPM's at higher speeds.

BTW....I dont have a scale, but yes these are the rooster weights, and it stated they were 56grams? So right now....Im around 59.4 total, but I recall you're running a much better airbox...and I'm running snorkels!

Ill probably mess with it tomorrow and see what I can do with it. I might be changing tires, so I dont want to put much effort into it, just to start over again!

 

If your not topped out a lot, then i'd probably add to the tip before the mid. I've found that the mid and tip positions seem to overlap quite a bit vs the heel and mid. If your at 8600 fairly quick, then maybe try 1 to 1.5 grams at the tip and see what it does. If you add it in the middle, then it may feel lazy on you coming back up from an out of throttle situation, like out of corners. At least thats what i've experienced.