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Curious how water tight the set up is. I was looking at the instructions (Downloadable here), and am not sure I am comfortable with the way the tubes attach at the OEM intake. I am OK with the 4 bolts and weatherstripping on the outside, but how secure is the connection between the fender and the plumbing to the air box itself?

Admittedly, I have never torn my fender off to see exactly how the two meet, but it looks like one ratchet strap between the bed rails to secure my :pint: would pull the plastic and potentially open a gap in this area (between the fender where the OEM pre filter used to rest, and the plumbing to the air box).

My main reason for looking into this was to get cleaner air, and to keep water out of the intakes while washing. But you and I both know that at some point I would want to go deeper than I should.

That being said, I am aware that the clutch vent is not modified in this set up and I really wouldn't have a true snorkel system. My point is, I can get towed out of water and drain my clutch housing if need be. I cant magically get a boat load of water out of my engine. I like the side effect of the intake re locators being I have at least the engine snorkeled. Helps justify the price of a hand full of plastic pipes and bolts.

Also, I would run the stock filter. If I am going to void my warranty, it will be for a turbo!
 

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Curious how water tight the set up is. I was looking at the instructions (Downloadable here), and am not sure I am comfortable with the way the tubes attach at the OEM intake. I am OK with the 4 bolts and weatherstripping on the outside, but how secure is the connection between the fender and the plumbing to the air box itself?

Admittedly, I have never torn my fender off to see exactly how the two meet, but it looks like one ratchet strap between the bed rails to secure my :pint: would pull the plastic and potentially open a gap in this area (between the fender where the OEM pre filter used to rest, and the plumbing to the air box).

My main reason for looking into this was to get cleaner air, and to keep water out of the intakes while washing. But you and I both know that at some point I would want to go deeper than I should.

That being said, I am aware that the clutch vent is not modified in this set up and I really wouldn't have a true snorkel system. My point is, I can get towed out of water and drain my clutch housing if need be. I cant magically get a boat load of water out of my engine. I like the side effect of the intake re locators being I have at least the engine snorkeled. Helps justify the price of a hand full of plastic pipes and bolts.

Also, I would run the stock filter. If I am going to void my warranty, it will be for a turbo!
I'm curious about this setup as well. I didn't think about the fact that the clutch wouldn't be snorkeled with this setup. Kinda makes it seem pointless.


Sent via Tapatalk HD on my iPad
 

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I really don't think it was designed for deep water, more for just getting the intake away from the dust. I'm sure you could seal it up where it attaches with RTV. If you sealed up the duckbills in the cvt intake and the engine intake you could go pretty deep. The cvt exhaust is right under the bed. There are a couple vent lines that are at the same level. IIRC the fuel rail or whatever vent line was in one of the frame rails under the bed.

If you do plan on getting in much water you should pull the clutches and seal the back side of the cover. They use foam gaskets and they leak.

BTW If you secure your stuff with the tie downs in the bed, the bed won't flex. Those are screwed to the frame.
 

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Here is the thread that I did on the Airaid kit. There is no positive seal between the fender and airbox. I would not rely on the simple gasket that is used. The kit is good and straight forward, but lack sealing. INSTALLED AS PER INSTRUCTIONS, IT IS NOT WATER PROOF. Mine is, but I did seal things up pretty well. You can clean the foam gaskets up on the air box to fender joint and seal them with silicone. But the fender piece for the Airaid will also have to be sealed with silicone. I don't have a pic of the vent lines, but I ran all my vent lines to the engine intake side of the snorkel and drilled holes in the top head and sealed them in. I did the same for the oil tank vent. Looks good and works. To extend the vent lines for the diffs and gas tank. I used some clear 1/4" fuel filters as a splice. Works great and gives me an idea of any dust / dirt that may be going in vent lines.


http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-900/89324-air-filter-upgrade.html
 
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