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@dafish

This will be a curve ball outside of the information you provided. I always have wondered if Motorcraft XT-M5-QS would be a good choice for the trans.

While researching for a cheaper fluid solution for my manual transmission Ford, the basic agreement across the web was, "don't". Seemed to have a cult like following in the import m.t forums as a miracle fluid, especially for the track kids.

Basic information that I am not well versed in.
676758


$30+ for a quart is a pricey alternative, but the transaxle in the car seems to love it.

Greatly appreciate any thoughts and comments!
 

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Thank you for the effort you put it!
I've been stressing about that bearing giving up the ghost in the middle of nowhere, so I dumped the AGL and refilled with 2qts of Valvoline synpower 75w90. Very first thing I notice is it now shifts like butter between gears and I don't have to force it anymore. A very substantial improvement with shifting. And the old AGL had less than 7hrs run time, so it wasn't due to contamination/breakdown.

Would've liked to run the motul, but the valvoline looks good on paper, costs the same as AGL and Napa has it in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
PC:
You're most welcome. I can't imagine why anybody would run AGL when the SynPower is almost always going to be nearby. If you start with a car that's sat out in cold weather I'd go easy for a few miles though. A cold weather master it's not, and we're openly giving a lot of ground to frigid use vs AGL. Awful good given those few caveats though. Also keep in mind if you can plan a little in advance the Motul Type 2 is SynPower's equal in the cold but even better when hot. I remain torn myself between the two Motuls.

Rev:
Hey there, good to hear from you. One mans thoughts: When MT oils become somewhat revered, as "honey" seems to have, it's usually about the visceral feeling it gives while shifting. That's seems to mean really good cold flow, a solid VI (so it still works hot), and the right combination of additives so the synchro's work well. Smooth, but not so smooth the synchros won't work right. Wear seems much less a focus.

I still don't know much about "honey", but some brief reading suggests it's likely better used in a MT than in a transaxle. This as UOA's suggests it shears down somewhat quickly. With a short change interval like ours it may not matter. My guess is this is probably a G-IV PAO with a strong shot of mid-grade VI's that sheer a bit easily. Ford has no reason to submit this to industry certs, but the missing J2360 and it's associated sheer-down test add to the concern. It's also only a GL-4, and the upper crust of oils we should be looking at make GL-5. It does have a really good VI though.

All in all "honey" is still better than AGL. By how much is hard to know for we can only get close to knowing what AGL is. If I had a can of AGL and "honey" I'd use the latter. But the SynPower trumps if you're a little cautious when starting out cold, and the Motul 300 is even better (largely because the latter tolerates both cold even frigid use well.

Hope this helps!

-d
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks for adding, again, to the thread Snow. It is an interesting read. Almost 15 years old, and as you surmised suspicously biased, but I think there are some things we can take from it:

1) Group IV oils, like Amsoil have an inherent advantage
2) Higher viscosity, even within a class, helps wear.

That said I'm going to look deeper at the some of the results. RP failed a bunch of times, Redline mid-pack, no Motul at all, Valvoline sheered a lot. Hmph. Group IV's all. I don't know if it's bias or there is more to it, but I'll read it more critically a few times and see what I can extract. It's a pretty complete read though.

Did you happen to notice the Brookfield viscosity tests? I sure wish those results were more available. I think we can surmise a bit from the D97, but still...

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Bullitt:
I just realized I never replied to your Super-tech suggestion. Sorry, didn't mean to be rude. I can't find more than you posted and that's not enough to form much of an opinion, but I meant to reply and didn't. Apologies again.

atb

-d
 

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Dafish, I saw your recommendation to change engine oil every 25 to 30 hours, do you have one for transaxle and front diff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thestir: Please let me know which one that's in and I'll update that a bit.

Now that I'm doing turbo cool downs and moved to 15W-50 I'm no longer seeing the kind of burnt scorched oil results I was. I'm seeing really good looking oil at 40 hours. I now plan OCI's around outings. I want to be below 60 hours when I'm done with an outing and I want to change when/where it's easy so let that decide how soon. I also only change oil filters every other OCI. I feel like OCI comes down to how good an oil you're using and how well you manage turbo cool-down. If you're going to just shut down and walk about I think 40 or so is a good number to change at.

You also need to be watching oil levels. If it starts going up (at all) you're getting fuel contamination and that will f up the oil quickly. = Early change.

Diffs:
It's hard for me to argue the manual (100 miles), so I don't. Yet in an auto setting you'd go 100k miles and not think about changing those fluids. We're using really good fluids (assuming you are), so while I don't care to extend past service manual intervals I've no idea why they are so short. I assume crappy oils. Again, manage via outings and etc. Nothing wrong with changing early too of course.

If I got to use mine more I'd be sending fluids off to get an oil analysis. A 50 hour and 100 hour test would be interesting.
 
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You also need to be watching oil levels. If it starts going up (at all) you're getting fuel contamination and that will f up the oil quickly. = Early change.
I wanted to piggy back on this. I'll do 40-50hrs Spring/Summer/Fall with 5W50 or 15W50 Mobil 1, but will switch to 25hrs in the Winter with the increased idling. I do not see the oil level rise however.
 

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Thanks dafish, I'm changing to Motul and JD this weekend.

I don't put 100 hours a year on my machine and do have been doing annual changed for front and rear and biannual for coolant.
Was using Polaris oil until now

Using Rotella T6 with 2oz Rislone zink for engine.

25 to 30 hour reference was here: Engine Oil Thoughts: What To Use, When, And Why
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thestir:

T-6 is great for the 1000. I was burning it in the turbo. Yea, I do winter annuals on all my stuff that doesn't mile/hour out first. Coolant is good for 5 years, and in truth the anti-freeze never wears out. The add paks for corrosion and seal protection are what wears out. Obviously do as you want, but with air bubbles being what they are I'd prolly do 4 years.

Thanks for the link, I'll go look at it.


Bullitt:
I'm sure you know this, but the 5w-50 isn't a thick when hot as the 15w is. Mind you I put 5w in for winter storage myself, so I get it.


atb
-d
 

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Bullitt:
I'm sure you know this, but the 5w-50 isn't a thick when hot as the 15w is. Mind you I put 5w in for winter storage myself, so I get it.
Yep, the 5W50 is my Winter oil, 15W50 is my Summer oil. The 5W makes a huge difference on cold starts when we're ripping the trails at 6am and below zero. I used to use T6 5W40 as my Winter oil, but with the Mobil 1 5W50 becoming locally available I switched to using that.
 
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So I am new to the whole UTV scene just orderd a Ranger xp1000 which I assume uses the same front and rear diff as the rest of the polaris line up or at least the same fluids. It will mostly be used in the thumb of Michigan plowing 300x40 driveway and short runs to the post office a mile away so it will see sub 32 on a regular basis 8months out of the year. Is the moto 300 still the fluid to change to? Sorry for being in the RZR forum can't find a decent Ranger forum and if they use the same drivetrain.
 

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@Aerojoe
In super cold weather it would be best to stay with the Factory Polaris AGL for the transmission and Drive Demand for the front diff. Not the heavier viscosity oils
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
AGL, the front diff fluid,is widely known the be Jonn Deere's J20 hydraulic fluid. Some mfg's that stipulate the same Hilliard front diff (that's who makes it for Polaris) stipulate J-20C for normal operation, J-20D for cold weather use. Amsoils ATHQT-EA version meets both specifications and I would use that with very high confidence, in particular because it covers cold use so well.

The AGL recommendation gets more slippery ( :D ). I think AGL is at least somewhat too thin, and there are those that recommend much much thicker. The latter makes me nervous so I stay a little conservative.

If was being super conservative I would use the Redline Universal. I don't care for universal's personally, but if you want to be absolutely certain it's going to meet the coldest situation and still protect better than AGL I'd user Redlines SKU 43704.

Personally I would be comfortable running the Motul 300 in your situation. With a -60 D97 pour point, that thing is holding a great cold viscosity. I'd love to see a full viscosity curve of the thing, but I've found none, nor even a Brookfield number. However, what we're seeing is the incredible cold performance of a Group V ester synthetic. As a result I'm inclined to not even concern myself with the 40c number being a tad higher. I just don't think that oil follows the typical viscosity curve. Nor is the 40c all that high anyway. So I suppose you pick your poison, either is better than AGL.

Hope this helps,

-d
 
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