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Aftermarket Assassins Clutch settings

303K views 831 replies 130 participants last post by  Karenann 
#1 · (Edited)
Figured I'd start a thread for those of us with AAX's clutch kit as a kind of database for people to reference. Please post your weight setup, mods and tire size.

16 Xpt, exhaust + AAX stage 3 tune and clutch kit on 28" Stu blasters with a factory Polaris belt - starting at the recommended 2-1-1, will update here when I get a chance to take it out.


Some good info from Michael @ Aftermarket Assassins:

Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:

Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.

So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.

More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change

Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift

Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift

Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
 
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#4 ·
I just installed the AA clutch kit on my 17 XPT with their level 3 tune. The setup sheet I have recommends 4-4-2 for the level three tune on stock tires and remove a weight with over sized tires. I'm running 32" Terrabites on Method 401s so I set it up with 4-3-1 and I'm turning about 8900 to 9000 RPM at WOT passing 55 MPH. I'm going to add the weight back in to drop a couple hundred RPMs. I will say the thing is a beast after adding the tune and clutch kit.
 
#10 ·
Great thread guys! Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I've posted a screen shot of our clutch setup guideline/instructions. Sounds like everyone has this figured out. Maybe we need to go 1 heavier on the magnet setup as it seems like the general census from this thread. Most customers who phone have been nearly spot on with the setups though. More weight = more power = a good thing!

The 2017's use a MUCH shallower helix.. thankfully! The 2016 helix was much too steep and created a ton of heat. We will be experimenting with a new helix soon. I'm hoping we can gain even more belt life with a straight angle or less angle yet.
 

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#12 ·
Sure can! It works great. The Polaris part number is 5140924. Looks like they are around $90. Just keep in mind you will need a clutch kit that can adjust for the 2017 models. The stock 2016 weights will be wayyyy to light(rev limit city).

Our clutch kits are adjustable enough for 2016 & 2017's... so they are the go to kit for those wanting to switch the helix.
 
#13 ·
took my machine out this weekend, stage 3 tune with the recommended 2/1/1 weights and it hits right around 8100-8150 so if I'm reading that right I need to add weight to bring rpm up? probably one in the heel and one in the middle?
 
#14 ·
Taking weight away will raise RPM. I'd go 1/0/1 if you are that low on RPM. Those tires must be digging hard!

Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:

Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.

So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.

More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change

Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift

Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift

Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
 
#18 ·
This last weekend at Florence sand dunes I was running AA's level 3 tune on a 2016 xpt4 with his clutch kit. 30" Pro Armor paddles and my rpm's were between 8300-8500. Weight set up was 1-1-1. I have a stock exhaust with cat removed and stock air filter waiting on myR2C filter to come in.
 
#32 ·
Okay! You guys have convinced me. I am going to give the AA Clutch Kit a try. My 2017 XPT 4 clutch is slipping bad and running hot - all stock, mind you - and I'm expecting Polaris to do nothing about it. On my 3rd belt at 360 miles.

Eventually I'll be running aftermarket exhaust and the EVO Stage 2 tune (sorry, Michael, I already bought it before I even knew about AA). Waiting for warranty to expire/Polaris to do something about the stock clutch. Hoping I won't have to pester Michael too much on the clutch tuning :wink

When are you guys going to be at Florence or Spinreel/Horsfall? Would love to meet up.

Great thread. Thanks!
 
#33 ·
Great to hear it! The setup guideline is pretty good. Just run what I call my level 3 tune clutch setup and you should be in business.... and I'm always here for help.
 
#34 ·
Just called Mike and placed order for the AA Clutch Kit. Super nice on the phone and going out of his way to ship it out this morning so I have it for this weekend. 10 thumbs up on customer service! Hope this fixes my slippy clutch.

Mike, I forgot to ask, what is engagement RPM on the spring you provide? I'm not a huge fan of too high engagement. Stock seems to start grabbing between 1600 and 1800 (closer to 1800).
 
#35 ·
Thanks for the order Brian! Your shipment is already at the post office. When you remove the limiter(black plastic washer on the spring) the engagement is about the same as stock. Maybe just 100rpm higher. No need for really high engagement... just makes them hard to drive in technical situations.
 
#37 ·
You'll like the engagement over others springs. I had another brand springs in my clutch before I did the AA clutch kit and it engages quite a bit lower! It's nice and smooth to!
 
#38 · (Edited)
AA Clutch Kit worked great! I went with 4/4/1 on Evo 2017 Stage 1 tune with stock tires. Right about 8500 RPM on 55mph test run.

Appears to have eliminated slipping and reduced belt temps. Super smooth engagement and operation. Very easy to install and very high quality. 100% recommend even on stock machine! Specially thank you Mike for the extra effort to get it to me by Saturday.

 
#39 · (Edited)
17xpt Dynojet running Aa level 1 & 2 tunes after installing Aa clutch kit 4-3-1 my shiftout was 8300 rpm at 55 ish mph but I'm carrying a lot of weight, seems close? I was 8150 shiftout with stock springs and weights. Stock exhaust RC2 filter. Blue Technology Electric blue Electronic device Plastic
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle All-terrain vehicle Off-roading


Off subject but I'm considering Aa slip on muffler, With my xp1k slip on The ecu program had to be modified for cat delete, with the Xpt O2 being in the head pipe is it nessasary with Dynojet or Aa programs?
 
#40 · (Edited)
17xpt Dynojet running Aa level 1 & 2 tunes after installing Aa clutch kit 4-3-1 my shiftout was 8300 rpm at 55 ish mph but I'm carrying a lot of weight, seems close? I was 8150 shiftout with stock springs and weights. Stock exhaust RC2 filter.

Off subject but I'm considering Aa slip on muffler, With my xp1k slip on The ecu program had to be modified for cat delete, with the Xpt O2 being in the head pipe is it nessasary with Dynojet or Aa programs?

Sounds like you need to go 4-2-1 on your weights. Mike says each weight is worth about 150rpm, which would bring you up to 8450-8500. I believe this is the sweet spot. It is where I'm at on XPT 4-seat, Evo Stage 1, stock tires. I'll be going to 30' tires and Evo Stage 2, so I think I'll still be at 4-4-1.

I don't think you have to tune for an aftermarket exhaust, but some tunes require an aftermarket slip on (not necessarily an AA slip on). Evo Stage 2 for 2017 XPT I know for sure does, whereas Stage 1 does not.

I am no expert, just going by what I'm reading and have experienced so far, so Mike or someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
#44 ·
It's more for the power of the level 3 tune than it is for the exhaust, I actually am ok with the sound of the xpt muffler stock, Aa level 3 specs exhaust and obviously clutching for that tune on 91-93 octane otherwise I wouldn't change. I did slip ons on my N/A rzrs more for a deeper tone as the stock mufflers were irritating imo..

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 
#51 ·
'17 XPT, AA stage 3, slip on exhaust, K&N filter, I was 8100-8150 rpm with 4/4/2

Mike said try 4/3/1. That put me at 8300 rpm

Then he recommended 3/3/1. No change, still 8300 rpm.

Bone stock machine was 8000-8100 rpm.

He said to try a new belt (even though mine looks good) and that might raise rpms.

I don't know why my machine is so different then others.....

If new belt shows same 8300 then I am going 3/2/1. One thing I am noticing each time I remove weight is the clutch is getting less aggressive which is kind of a bummer. I liked the engagement with 4/4/2.
 
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