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I just put a stage 2 kit in a 2019 xp1000. Only thing other than stock is I put 32” superatv rockwarrior tries. I went with the recommended weights 2/2/2. It’s very strong at the bottom but tops out at 45 mph. Hits the rev limiter to get to 55. How much weight should I go up to get more out of the clutch?
 

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I just put a stage 2 kit in a 2019 xp1000. Only thing other than stock is I put 32” superatv rockwarrior tries. I went with the recommended weights 2/2/2. It’s very strong at the bottom but tops out at 45 mph. Hits the rev limiter to get to 55. How much weight should I go up to get more out of the clutch?
You have issues beyond tuning clutch weights, sounds the spider / spider nut has backed off in your primary clutch, or something is sticking / binding.
 

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You have issues beyond tuning clutch weights, sounds the spider / spider nut has backed off in your primary clutch, or something is sticking / binding.
But before the clutch I didn’t have any issues. How can I check the spider nut? When I had the primary off the RZR it didn’t seem loose.
 

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But before the clutch I didn’t have any issues. How can I check the spider nut? When I had the primary off the RZR it didn’t seem loose.
It won't seem loose, it doesn't have to back off much to cause issues. But since it was fine before the clutch kit, you can put that on the back burner for the time being....need to verify that the clutch arms and everything else is installed correctly and nothing is causing binding in the clutches.

You can try an add weight to bring the RPM down at 55...but it shouldn't be so far off that it's hitting the rev limiter by 55, that is usually that it's not full shifting the clutches out due to something not functioning properly. If you want to add weight, I'd make a big change to it and go to something like 4/3/2...your max speed should not be influenced by clutch weights at all.
 

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It won't seem loose, it doesn't have to back off much to cause issues. But since it was fine before the clutch kit, you can put that on the back burner for the time being....need to verify that the clutch arms and everything else is installed correctly and nothing is causing binding in the clutches.

You can try an add weight to bring the RPM down at 55...but it shouldn't be so far off that it's hitting the rev limiter by 55, that is usually that it's not full shifting the clutches out due to something not functioning properly. If you want to add weight, I'd make a big change to it and go to something like 4/3/2...your max speed should not be influenced by clutch weights at all.
That makes sense. As far as I know everything was moving fine but I will pull the cover back off and check everything good. Maybe I missed something. Thanks for the info. I’ll check it and get back to you.
 

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Hey guys sorry this is probably in the thread but I've been reading and having a hard time finding anyone with my same setup. For now I'm stock 2018 xpt, with 30 inch tires on method bead locks. I have the s3 kit with performance helix, I have an email from Mike saying to start at 4/4/1 and it should rip. In the instructions that came with it says to run 4/2/2 for stock and -1 for 30" tires so that would be 4/2/1. I'm a little confused where should I start?
 

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Hey guys sorry this is probably in the thread but I've been reading and having a hard time finding anyone with my same setup. For now I'm stock 2018 xpt, with 30 inch tires on method bead locks. I have the s3 kit with performance helix, I have an email from Mike saying to start at 4/4/1 and it should rip. In the instructions that came with it says to run 4/2/2 for stock and -1 for 30" tires so that would be 4/2/1. I'm a little confused where should I start?
Start at either. You’re likely to adjust anyway go heavy and then take weight out to be where you need.


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Start with what he recommended ... sounds pretty close. Without knowing your altitude I would have suggested 4,3,1
But if it will pull 4,4,1 ...perfect . I think Mike is spot on it is easier to see where you are at with more weight vs not enough
 

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Start with what he recommended ... sounds pretty close. Without knowing your altitude I would have suggested 4,3,1
But if it will pull 4,4,1 ...perfect . I think Mike is spot on it is easier to see where you are at with more weight vs not enough
Thank both of you, I'm in lower NY, ride a lot in PA I don't think I ever go above 2,000 feet.
 

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So I set it at 4,4,1 and it rips ! 55mph at 8400-8500 pulls hard. So my secondary is spinning with the snap ring delete. Mike has some pointers to check but figured I'd put it here and see if anyone has had similar issues on a 2018

I'd go back to the 2 thicker washers and maybe ride it to see if spinning stops or look into another possibility of why it's spinning. Thanks!

1. Belt deflection, adjust belt tension with snap ring delete kit
2. Bad center bearing on primary clutch that is not spinning freely
3. Clutch alignment is off. Remove the primary clutch, clean the taper of the clutch and crank, then re-torque to 96ft-lbs
4. Center to center is off. Remove both clutches and check with center to center alignment tool
5. Helix out of center. Really no good explanation why, but removing the helix/spring from the secondary clutch and re-installing making sure the helix is as centered as possible to start with sometimes helps the issue.
 

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Good to hear the 4 4 1 setting worked.
Did the secondary just start spinning at idle since you added the snap ring delete kit ?
If so 90 % sure that you just need to adjust it with the washers
 

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So I set it at 4,4,1 and it rips ! 55mph at 8400-8500 pulls hard. So my secondary is spinning with the snap ring delete. Mike has some pointers to check but figured I'd put it here and see if anyone has had similar issues on a 2018

I'd go back to the 2 thicker washers and maybe ride it to see if spinning stops or look into another possibility of why it's spinning. Thanks!

1. Belt deflection, adjust belt tension with snap ring delete kit
2. Bad center bearing on primary clutch that is not spinning freely
3. Clutch alignment is off. Remove the primary clutch, clean the taper of the clutch and crank, then re-torque to 96ft-lbs
4. Center to center is off. Remove both clutches and check with center to center alignment tool
5. Helix out of center. Really no good explanation why, but removing the helix/spring from the secondary clutch and re-installing making sure the helix is as centered as possible to start with sometimes helps the issue.
That snap ring delete kit never had the sweet spot on mine, it was either too loose, or always spinning the secondary, and it can change depending on the belt you have one too. I recommend switching to the 19+ hardware and calling it good. Once I did that, haven't had to worry about it since.
 

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I hav
That snap ring delete kit never had the sweet spot on mine, it was either too loose, or always spinning the secondary, and it can change depending on the belt you have one too. I recommend switching to the 19+ hardware and calling it good. Once I did that, haven't had to worry about it since.
I have polaris oem belt it has less then 100 miles on it, can you send a link to the 19 hardware where you got it ?
 

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I hav


I have polaris oem belt it has less then 100 miles on it, can you send a link to the 19 hardware where you got it ?
PN# 7557154 & PN# 7519286 is what you need for the secondary bolt & washer. They’re both under $4 each, 16 & 17 on the parts diagram at Rocky Mountain ATV ( Or any parts supplier site, same diagram )

15 is the silver washer and is common between the two, the bolt is longer, and a higher grade on the 19+ hardware



 

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It won't seem loose, it doesn't have to back off much to cause issues. But since it was fine before the clutch kit, you can put that on the back burner for the time being....need to verify that the clutch arms and everything else is installed correctly and nothing is causing binding in the clutches.

You can try an add weight to bring the RPM down at 55...but it shouldn't be so far off that it's hitting the rev limiter by 55, that is usually that it's not full shifting the clutches out due to something not functioning properly. If you want to add weight, I'd make a big change to it and go to something like 4/3/2...your max speed should not be influenced by clutch weights at all.
I talked to Mike and he suggested the same thing 4/3/2. I did that today and it seemed much better. It’s pouring the rain so I will get it out this weekend to test it out. Thanks again for your help.
 

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PN# 7557154 & PN# 7519286 is what you need for the secondary bolt & washer. They’re both under $4 each, 16 & 17 on the parts diagram at Rocky Mountain ATV ( Or any parts supplier site, same diagram )

15 is the silver washer and is common between the two, the bolt is longer, and a higher grade on the 19+ hardware



Thank youu for all the help. So just to be clear I need just the 2 washers 16 and 17 on the diagram or I need the new longer bolt as well ?
 

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Thank youu for all the help. So just to be clear I need just the 2 washers 16 and 17 on the diagram or I need the new longer bolt as well ?
You'll need the bolt and new spacer ( 16 is the bolt,. 17 is the spacer ), you will reuse the washer with the hole in it since it's the same between both configurations. The new bolt actually has a higher torque spec as well, 70 ft-lb.
 
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