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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figured I'd start a thread for those of us with AAX's clutch kit as a kind of database for people to reference. Please post your weight setup, mods and tire size.

16 Xpt, exhaust + AAX stage 3 tune and clutch kit on 28" Stu blasters with a factory Polaris belt - starting at the recommended 2-1-1, will update here when I get a chance to take it out.


Some good info from Michael @ Aftermarket Assassins:

Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:

Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.

So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.

More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change

Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift

Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift

Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
 

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I just installed the AA clutch kit on my 17 XPT with their level 3 tune. The setup sheet I have recommends 4-4-2 for the level three tune on stock tires and remove a weight with over sized tires. I'm running 32" Terrabites on Method 401s so I set it up with 4-3-1 and I'm turning about 8900 to 9000 RPM at WOT passing 55 MPH. I'm going to add the weight back in to drop a couple hundred RPMs. I will say the thing is a beast after adding the tune and clutch kit.
 

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2016 XPT4 32" crawlers. 2/0/0. 8600 at 55. had 0/0/0 8800 at 55.level 2 tune.
 

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17 xpt
aa stage 2 tune
evo cc exhaust
stock 29 bh
4 4 1 hit 55mph at 8650 and 8700. I will be changing to 4 4 2 to bring down RPM so hopefully stage 2 and 3 work onn same clutch weight. Easiest controller I have ever hooked up
 

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16 XPT
30" Pro Armor paddles
stage 3 17psi tune

3-1-0 is what I ran last time out and is setup according to the chart for stage 4 . hit 8900+ rpm WOT at 55mph
dropped it to stage 2 15.5psi tune and it came down to 8700 rpm at WOT 55mph

wondering why the 17 requires so much more weight .
thinking maybe 4-2-0 next?
 

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16 XPT
30" Pro Armor paddles
stage 3 17psi tune

3-1-0 is what I ran last time out and is setup according to the chart for stage 4 . hit 8900+ rpm WOT at 55mph
dropped it to stage 2 15.5psi tune and it came down to 8700 rpm at WOT 55mph

wondering why the 17 requires so much more weight .
thinking maybe 4-2-0 next?
I think its due to the helix being different.
 

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Great thread guys! Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I've posted a screen shot of our clutch setup guideline/instructions. Sounds like everyone has this figured out. Maybe we need to go 1 heavier on the magnet setup as it seems like the general census from this thread. Most customers who phone have been nearly spot on with the setups though. More weight = more power = a good thing!

The 2017's use a MUCH shallower helix.. thankfully! The 2016 helix was much too steep and created a ton of heat. We will be experimenting with a new helix soon. I'm hoping we can gain even more belt life with a straight angle or less angle yet.
 

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Can you use the 2017 helix on the 2016?
Sure can! It works great. The Polaris part number is 5140924. Looks like they are around $90. Just keep in mind you will need a clutch kit that can adjust for the 2017 models. The stock 2016 weights will be wayyyy to light(rev limit city).

Our clutch kits are adjustable enough for 2016 & 2017's... so they are the go to kit for those wanting to switch the helix.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
took my machine out this weekend, stage 3 tune with the recommended 2/1/1 weights and it hits right around 8100-8150 so if I'm reading that right I need to add weight to bring rpm up? probably one in the heel and one in the middle?
 

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took my machine out this weekend, stage 3 tune with the recommended 2/1/1 weights and it hits right around 8100-8150 so if I'm reading that right I need to add weight to bring rpm up? probably one in the heel and one in the middle?
Taking weight away will raise RPM. I'd go 1/0/1 if you are that low on RPM. Those tires must be digging hard!

Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:

Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.

So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.

More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change

Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift

Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift

Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
 

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Discussion Starter #15
took my machine out this weekend, stage 3 tune with the recommended 2/1/1 weights and it hits right around 8100-8150 so if I'm reading that right I need to add weight to bring rpm up? probably one in the heel and one in the middle?
Taking weight away will raise RPM. I'd go 1/0/1 if you are that low on RPM. Those tires must be digging hard!

Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:

Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.

So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.

More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change

Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift

Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift

Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Thanks Michael, I'll add that to the first post as well!
 

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Great thread guys! Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I've posted a screen shot of our clutch setup guideline/instructions. Sounds like everyone has this figured out. Maybe we need to go 1 heavier on the magnet setup as it seems like the general census from this thread. Most customers who phone have been nearly spot on with the setups though. More weight = more power = a good thing!

The 2017's use a MUCH shallower helix.. thankfully! The 2016 helix was much too steep and created a ton of heat. We will be experimenting with a new helix soon. I'm hoping we can gain even more belt life with a straight angle or less angle yet.
Will your set up be close for other tuners different level tunes? Also, will springs or weights make a bigger performance difference if you had to pick one or the other assuming rpm's are in check. Thanks
 

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This last weekend at Florence sand dunes I was running AA's level 3 tune on a 2016 xpt4 with his clutch kit. 30" Pro Armor paddles and my rpm's were between 8300-8500. Weight set up was 1-1-1. I have a stock exhaust with cat removed and stock air filter waiting on myR2C filter to come in.
 

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This last weekend at Florence sand dunes I was running AA's level 3 tune on a 2016 xpt4 with his clutch kit. 30" Pro Armor paddles and my rpm's were between 8300-8500. Weight set up was 1-1-1. I have a stock exhaust with cat removed and stock air filter waiting on myR2C filter to come in.
How did you like ?
Could you tell a big difference
 
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