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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2012 XP4 LE...had it out three times so far and am starting to notice a lean to the passenger side. Have run a search and read several other threads on this issue throughout the forum.

My last ride I got more agressive with the machine but nothing I would consider in excess of, or really even approaching, an "extreme performance" machine (especially for a naturally conservative rider like me). So I'm looking for advice from the forum here.

Spring wire diameters up front match each other. Back match each other. Gap between each coil on springs tend to correlate from side to side. So I'm looking at the sway bar. There is no obvious damage I can see and a close inspection with it installed can't reveal any tell-tell signs of bending like paint wrinkles, etc. Plus, the bar doesn't seem to have a seam in it as described in another thread bemoaning the weakness of this part.

1. Plan to disconnect the sway bar from each trailing arm (where the sway bar connects to the trailing arm link) and relieve the compression on the springs just by jacking up the machine until tires come off ground, then setting back down on level ground and seeing if the machine still leans. Is this the generally accepted method for diagnosing a sway bar problem?

2. If the sway bar is to be removed any advice from those that have done it. I have a full skid plate and prefer not to remove it. Looks to me like it can come out by disconnecting from the trailing arms, as described above, bushings disconnected from their mounts, then sway bar can be jockeyed to one side until the other side can be brought up through the access panel in the back of the machine. There's a fairly beefy cross member just above the sway bar but nothing that seems insurmountable to work around. Advice from someone who has done a removal and install is appreciated.

3. If removed I should be able to tell if it is bent by just laying it on the ground. If one end (where it would bolt to the linkage on the trailing arm) touches the ground and the other doesn't without any preload on the bar seems to me like that's a smoking gun. Anybody disagree?

4. If the sway bar is replaced I'd prefer to have it done under warranty to save my money but don't want another part susceptible to such easy deformation especially when I likely haven't pushed the machine all that hard. So, I'm thinking of replacing on my own nickel with the Cognito model. It's advertised as fitting the XP but assume the application would also include the XP4. Anybody have any experience with this bar on the XP4?

Appreciate the insights of the forum members.
 

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2012 XP4 LE...had it out three times so far and am starting to notice a lean to the passenger side. Have run a search and read several other threads on this issue throughout the forum.

My last ride I got more agressive with the machine but nothing I would consider in excess of, or really even approaching, an "extreme performance" machine (especially for a naturally conservative rider like me). So I'm looking for advice from the forum here.

Spring wire diameters up front match each other. Back match each other. Gap between each coil on springs tend to correlate from side to side. So I'm looking at the sway bar. There is no obvious damage I can see and a close inspection with it installed can't reveal any tell-tell signs of bending like paint wrinkles, etc. Plus, the bar doesn't seem to have a seam in it as described in another thread bemoaning the weakness of this part.

1. Plan to disconnect the sway bar from each trailing arm (where the sway bar connects to the trailing arm link) and relieve the compression on the springs just by jacking up the machine until tires come off ground, then setting back down on level ground and seeing if the machine still leans. Is this the generally accepted method for diagnosing a sway bar problem?

2. If the sway bar is to be removed any advice from those that have done it. I have a full skid plate and prefer not to remove it. Looks to me like it can come out by disconnecting from the trailing arms, as described above, bushings disconnected from their mounts, then sway bar can be jockeyed to one side until the other side can be brought up through the access panel in the back of the machine. There's a fairly beefy cross member just above the sway bar but nothing that seems insurmountable to work around. Advice from someone who has done a removal and install is appreciated.

3. If removed I should be able to tell if it is bent by just laying it on the ground. If one end (where it would bolt to the linkage on the trailing arm) touches the ground and the other doesn't without any preload on the bar seems to me like that's a smoking gun. Anybody disagree?

4. If the sway bar is replaced I'd prefer to have it done under warranty to save my money but don't want another part susceptible to such easy deformation especially when I likely haven't pushed the machine all that hard. So, I'm thinking of replacing on my own nickel with the Cognito model. It's advertised as fitting the XP but assume the application would also include the XP4. Anybody have any experience with this bar on the XP4?

Appreciate the insights of the forum members.
The bar is the same on the xp2 as the xp4. We are running one on our BITD race car.:)

 

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The bar is the same on the xp2 as the xp4. We are running one on our BITD race car.:)

Okay..any advise on extraction before I tear into it? Disconnected it tonight and all indication are that it is bent.
Its a pretty easy job. Un bolt all the obvious stuff, IE end links, clamp downs and remove from the bar. I dont know if it will come out without taking the tank out but the tank comes out pretty easy. Then it will slide out the driver side. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the otentation of the bar, maybe take a picture from the back looking forward at the direction of the angled end. If you put a new one in up side down it will break end links almost Immediately.
 

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The bar is the same on the xp2 as the xp4. We are running one on our BITD race car.:)

Okay..any advise on extraction before I tear into it? Disconnected it tonight and all indication are that it is bent.
Its a pretty easy job. Un bolt all the obvious stuff, IE end links, clamp downs and remove from the bar. I dont know if it will come out without taking the tank out but the tank comes out pretty easy. Then it will slide out the driver side. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the otentation of the bar, maybe take a picture from the back looking forward at the direction of the angled end. If you put a new one in up side down it will break end links almost Immediately.
If removing the sway improves the ride so much why is there an aftermarket? Is it Just better for racing, or is it that the aftermarket is better than the factory and sway removed is better than factory too? Thanks
 

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Okay..any advise on extraction before I tear into it? Disconnected it tonight and all indication are that it is bent.
Its a pretty easy job. Un bolt all the obvious stuff, IE end links, clamp downs and remove from the bar. I dont know if it will come out without taking the tank out but the tank comes out pretty easy. Then it will slide out the driver side. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the otentation of the bar, maybe take a picture from the back looking forward at the direction of the angled end. If you put a new one in up side down it will break end links almost Immediately.
If removing the sway improves the ride so much why is there an aftermarket? Is it Just better for racing, or is it that the aftermarket is better than the factory and sway removed is better than factory too? Thanks
I am going out on a limb here but it may improve the factory ride.. BUT...the best thing to improve ride is upgraded shocks. I would never reccomend removing the sway bar from an XP. With a long trailing arm like the XP has there is a ton of leverage. Reving the bar is going to drastically change the handling. If you were ONLY rock crawling...MAYBE..it will alow the car to flex more...but for anything at speed IMHO would be a disaster. Now on a car with rear A Arms...I personally wouldnt run a bar.:ride:
 

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Its a pretty easy job. Un bolt all the obvious stuff, IE end links, clamp downs and remove from the bar. I dont know if it will come out without taking the tank out but the tank comes out pretty easy. Then it will slide out the driver side. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the otentation of the bar, maybe take a picture from the back looking forward at the direction of the angled end. If you put a new one in up side down it will break end links almost Immediately.
If removing the sway improves the ride so much why is there an aftermarket? Is it Just better for racing, or is it that the aftermarket is better than the factory and sway removed is better than factory too? Thanks
I am going out on a limb here but it may improve the factory ride.. BUT...the best thing to improve ride is upgraded shocks. I would never reccomend removing the sway bar from an XP. With a long trailing arm like the XP has there is a ton of leverage. Reving the bar is going to drastically change the handling. If you were ONLY rock crawling...MAYBE..it will alow the car to flex more...but for anything at speed IMHO would be a disaster. Now on a car with rear A Arms...I personally wouldnt run a bar.:ride:
Thank you for the honest opinion. Do you offer a revalue and spring for the WER shocks on the XP4?
 

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If removing the sway improves the ride so much why is there an aftermarket? Is it Just better for racing, or is it that the aftermarket is better than the factory and sway removed is better than factory too? Thanks
I am going out on a limb here but it may improve the factory ride.. BUT...the best thing to improve ride is upgraded shocks. I would never reccomend removing the sway bar from an XP. With a long trailing arm like the XP has there is a ton of leverage. Reving the bar is going to drastically change the handling. If you were ONLY rock crawling...MAYBE..it will alow the car to flex more...but for anything at speed IMHO would be a disaster. Now on a car with rear A Arms...I personally wouldnt run a bar.:ride:
Thank you for the honest opinion. Do you offer a revalue and spring for the WER shocks on the XP4?
No, we only work on Fox shocks, Sorry:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What indications did you see that it's bent? My 12 xp4 leans and I'm thinking its sway bar related.[/QUOTE]

1. First indication was the lean. Then I read some threads on this forum about it. Did some quick and dirty checks of springs and shocks like wire diameter and spacing between coils. Any other troubleshooting on the spring/shock assembly may be beyond my capability, especially in the installed state. I used a level on the top of the wall between passenger tub and bed which was just about the longest, sturdiest, flatest surface I could find. Prior to removal the bubble floated way toward the driver side confirming the passenger side was low.

2. I disconnected the sway bar where it attaches to the trailing arm end links (top bolt). The driver side was bound up, meaning I couldn't push the bolt through the end link bushing or get the end link off. The passenger side came apart with ease. In my head, a straight bar installed on the machine sitting on level ground should not favor any load to one side or the other. Tried to use measuring tape and levels once disconnected to compare realtive position of one side to another (e.g. level one side then check for level on other) but the effort was only tepidly succesful.

3. Before I disconnected the sway bar I noticed the two clamps just inside each bushing mount appeared to be rotated relative to each other. I thought that this was just how they were installed but after disconnecting the bar the clamps appear to be fairly true to each other (just by naked eye comparing the loacation or rotation of the bolts to each side of the machine). I really don't know what to make of this because I did not pay too close attention before I disconnected the bar. Could be nothing for all I know.

A level on that same panel top surface appears much better. The machine still looks a little high on the driver side but that may be due to the full tank of gas and lock and ride box loading down the passenger side.

I plan to get a repalcement aftermarket bar this weekend from UTVINC and don't want to remove the OEM unit until I see it and have a chance to chat with the guys up there in person about the expenditure. Seems to me though a sure fire way to tell if the OEM bar is bent is if it is removed and laying on a level surface, if one end touches that surface but the other doesnt there's a permanent twist in the unit that will translate into a load on the springs and shocks.

I'm no mechanic but that's what I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What indications did you see that it's bent? My 12 xp4 leans and I'm thinking its sway bar related.
1. First indication was the lean. Then I read some threads on this forum about it. Did some quick and dirty checks of springs and shocks like wire diameter and spacing between coils. Any other troubleshooting on the spring/shock assembly may be beyond my capability, especially in the installed state. I used a level on the top of the wall between passenger tub and bed which was just about the longest, sturdiest, flatest surface I could find. Prior to removal the bubble floated way toward the driver side confirming the passenger side was low.

2. I disconnected the sway bar where it attaches to the trailing arm end links (top bolt). The driver side was bound up, meaning I couldn't push the bolt through the end link bushing or get the end link off. The passenger side came apart with ease. In my head, a straight bar installed on the machine sitting on level ground should not favor any load to one side or the other. Tried to use measuring tape and levels once disconnected to compare realtive position of one side to another (e.g. level one side then check for level on other) but the effort was only tepidly succesful.

3. Before I disconnected the sway bar I noticed the two clamps just inside each bushing mount appeared to be rotated relative to each other. I thought that this was just how they were installed but after disconnecting the bar the clamps appear to be fairly true to each other (just by naked eye comparing the loacation or rotation of the bolts to each side of the machine). I really don't know what to make of this because I did not pay too close attention before I disconnected the bar. Could be nothing for all I know.

A level on that same panel top surface appears much better. The machine still looks a little high on the driver side but that may be due to the full tank of gas and lock and ride box loading down the passenger side.

I plan to get a repalcement aftermarket bar this weekend from UTVINC and don't want to remove the OEM unit until I see it and have a chance to chat with the guys up there in person about the expenditure. Seems to me though a sure fire way to tell if the OEM bar is bent is if it is removed and laying on a level surface, if one end touches that surface but the other doesnt there's a permanent twist in the unit that will translate into a load on the springs and shocks.

I'm no mechanic but that's what I think.
 

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What indications did you see that it's bent? My 12 xp4 leans and I'm thinking its sway bar related.
1. First indication was the lean. Then I read some threads on this forum about it. Did some quick and dirty checks of springs and shocks like wire diameter and spacing between coils. Any other troubleshooting on the spring/shock assembly may be beyond my capability, especially in the installed state. I used a level on the top of the wall between passenger tub and bed which was just about the longest, sturdiest, flatest surface I could find. Prior to removal the bubble floated way toward the driver side confirming the passenger side was low.

2. I disconnected the sway bar where it attaches to the trailing arm end links (top bolt). The driver side was bound up, meaning I couldn't push the bolt through the end link bushing or get the end link off. The passenger side came apart with ease. In my head, a straight bar installed on the machine sitting on level ground should not favor any load to one side or the other. Tried to use measuring tape and levels once disconnected to compare realtive position of one side to another (e.g. level one side then check for level on other) but the effort was only tepidly succesful.

3. Before I disconnected the sway bar I noticed the two clamps just inside each bushing mount appeared to be rotated relative to each other. I thought that this was just how they were installed but after disconnecting the bar the clamps appear to be fairly true to each other (just by naked eye comparing the loacation or rotation of the bolts to each side of the machine). I really don't know what to make of this because I did not pay too close attention before I disconnected the bar. Could be nothing for all I know.

A level on that same panel top surface appears much better. The machine still looks a little high on the driver side but that may be due to the full tank of gas and lock and ride box loading down the passenger side.

I plan to get a repalcement aftermarket bar this weekend from UTVINC and don't want to remove the OEM unit until I see it and have a chance to chat with the guys up there in person about the expenditure. Seems to me though a sure fire way to tell if the OEM bar is bent is if it is removed and laying on a level surface, if one end touches that surface but the other doesnt there's a permanent twist in the unit that will translate into a load on the springs and shocks.

I'm no mechanic but that's what I think.
Thank you
 
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