[Wren]

Ok, so I know on the front that it should hvae 1/8" ouon toe and the camber should be 0-1* postive since you gain negative camber when moving. Is this the same for the rear? Also, the rear only has the adjustment points at the pivot end of the lower control arm. It looks like that both will need to be adjusted to accomplish the camber setting. Then it looks like you will adjust the front or rear one to accomplish the toe, correct? However, that being said, wont it mess the camber up? Also, how are yall getting your camber measurement?

 

[RZR_Joe]

Ok, so I know on the front that it should hvae 1/8" ouon toe and the camber should be 0-1* postive since you gain negative camber when moving. Is this the same for the rear? Also, the rear only has the adjustment points at the pivot end of the lower control arm. It looks like that both will need to be adjusted to accomplish the camber setting. Then it looks like you will adjust the front or rear one to accomplish the toe, correct? However, that being said, wont it mess the camber up? Also, how are yall getting your camber measurement?

I think you mean 1 degree negative camber not positive. Set so you have 1 degree negative camber all around. Set the rear with zero toe-in. Rear - both front/rear adjustements need to be done to get the camber setting correct. Adjust upper & lower front adjustements equally to set the toe-in, does not effect camber. I set camber using a digital angle finder.

 

[Wren]

No, I ment positive camber. When you excel or take off, you develope negative camber. If you set it with negative camber to begin with, then you exceed the 1 degree. Also, to get better traction, while moving or under power, it will be better this way as well. I was looking at the rear of the lift and was specifically wondering about that is why I was posting.

With Superatv lift, the lower a-arm is designed to have 2 independent adjustments, both of which looks like they need to be adjusted to set camber, then only one to set toe. However, it seems to me that adjusting one will also throw off camber.

 

[RZR_Joe]

No, I ment positive camber. When you excel or take off, you develope negative camber. If you set it with negative camber to begin with, then you exceed the 1 degree. Also, to get better traction, while moving or under power, it will be better this way as well. I was looking at the rear of the lift and was specifically wondering about that is why I was posting.

With Superatv lift, the lower a-arm is designed to have 2 independent adjustments, both of which looks like they need to be adjusted to set camber, then only one to set toe. However, it seems to me that adjusting one will also throw off camber.

Accellerating does not change camber. Negative chamber leans the top of the wheel inwards towards the body and positive outward. Camber changes with chassis/body roll that's why you want to 1 degree negative camber. When the chassis rolls to the outside in a turn the tires "stand" straight with zero camber. Maybe you are referring to caster? Caster is angle of pivot of the front wheels.

BTW - I have the billet +6 LT kit with heim joints.

 

[RZR_Joe]

Also, the angle from horizontal of the rear pivots is called anti-squat. Maybe that's what you are asking about?