Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner
21 - 40 of 134 Posts
Another option is see if you can return this amp and buy an aftermarket (4) channel amp and you'll be able to add more speakers in the future. This amp will only allow you to run (2) speakers and if you want to add speakers, you'll have to buy another amp anyhow.
I believe the cost for this unit is $150.00 and the amp I bought is a MTX MUD 100.4 and I'm not saying to buy that amp but that was $250.00 and I can add another (2) speakers and I should be able to add a Sub too if I choose.
 
Did some additional research. If you would like you don't have to have the ground comming from AUDIO (1) or (2) going to a brown wire. You can connect it to the frame as a ground or cap it off. Also, most likely if your getting feed back from the radio, Its most possible "drunk john" on the assembley line insert the wires backward. This is a common thing among any plug and play from factory.
So I would check to see the wires are matching up from the amp to the Audio output. If not either cut and correct or buy the tool and push the pins out and correct them.
 
Installed a line output converter before the amp today, and it fixes the noise problem.

After getting the polaris door speakers and amp working properly. I also adjusted the gain and ride command equalizer settings, i do not think the sound quality is there for the price. I would recommend cutting the harness and direct wiring an aftermarket amp and speakers. Thats the route I will be taking.
 
Did some additional research. If you would like you don't have to have the ground comming from AUDIO (1) or (2) going to a brown wire. You can connect it to the frame as a ground or cap it off. Also, most likely if your getting feed back from the radio, Its most possible "drunk john" on the assembley line insert the wires backward. This is a common thing among any plug and play from factory.
So I would check to see the wires are matching up from the amp to the Audio output. If not either cut and correct or buy the tool and push the pins out and correct them.
You are correct. I did have to switch two wires feeding the amp as well. Maybe others with factory wiring are having the same issues.
 
Glad to hear, i kinda figured from the sounds of people that the wires were backward. It would only make sense. Glad it worked out, on a side note I don't know what kind of sound quality your looking for, but with my after market amp. My door speakers are very good.
 
Glad to hear, i kinda figured from the sounds of people that the wires were backward. It would only make sense. Glad it worked out, on a side note I don't know what kind of sound quality your looking for, but with my after market amp. My door speakers are very good.
What door speakers are you using?
I'm assuming he is using the Polaris door speakers. I'm not aware of anyone else making door speakers that plug into the Ride Command.
 
Glad to hear, i kinda figured from the sounds of people that the wires were backward. It would only make sense. Glad it worked out, on a side note I don't know what kind of sound quality your looking for, but with my after market amp. My door speakers are very good.
What door speakers are you using?
I'm assuming he is using the Polaris door speakers. I'm not aware of anyone else making door speakers that plug into the Ride Command.
I do know there is another brand out there that makes some, but I agree, i'm sure it was the polaris door speakers. I'm glad to hear they sound better with an aftermarket amp. I really like the functionality of the polaris door speakers, but was disappointed to hear the sound quality wasn't up to par. If this is a better alternative, might be the way i'll have to go.
 
yes, I bought the polaris door speakers. I do think they sound good with the amp I bought, not sure how others are sounding. If they are sounding bad, i would think its because a person doens't have the amp set up correctly and maybe not enough power going to them. I will admit, if your looking for alot of bass, these may not be the best. At some point I will compliment them with some additional speakers that will provide a bit lower end sound, but meanwhile, I am happy to produce noise!!
 
I got my High lifter back from the dealership and got my ride command with mb quart door speakers and the speaker pods. I am getting the same loud pop when I shut the ride command down, the dealership was aware of it and I hope someone can figure it out because it can't be good for the speakers. Holy crap they are loud though!
 
I got my High lifter back from the dealership and got my ride command with mb quart door speakers and the speaker pods. I am getting the same loud pop when I shut the ride command down, the dealership was aware of it and I hope someone can figure it out because it can't be good for the speakers. Holy crap they are loud though!
I'm about to part part ways with my Maverick and join the RZR family. I'm ordering the high lifter 4 seater with the same audio set up. Can you post an update once they fix the popping? I'm curious about the sound and quality with only 2 pods and the door speakers. I have 4 pods now and they are awesome. I'd hate to shell out that kind of money and feel like the sound isn't up to par. Thanks!
 
This thread has been extremely helpful. Thank you to all of you that have commented. I ordered an awesome sound system today from Scott at SSV Works. With the adapter cable, he says that their front speaker pods and subwoofer will work with the Ride Command System. I will let everyone know how well it works once its delivered and installed.

WSN
Commonwealth of Virginia
 
We're avidly searching for a solution to remove the turn off pop. We've tried several things yesterday however the Ride Command is using a sort of signal sense on the RCA output. The RCA signal is triggering the amplifier to turn on and not the actual Remote Wire. This creates an issue as we're not able to time delay the remote wire, or the head unit because it's on Can Bus.

My next shot is to use an equalizer or converter to eliminate the ability of signal turn on from the RCA's. If I can make it work next week I will keep you guys up to date. Unfortunately this is sort of a Ride Command problem that could be solved with an update....But I doubt we'll see that level of support.
 
So I got my stuff neatly packed away and I didn't fell like cutting everything and putting it back.
I did however double check Audio Out (3) and all outputs are the same. They have (6) wire going into them.
Blue-Remote which should be going to another blue from the amp
Brown-Negative which should be doing the same
White/Red (Front Left (+))
White/Black (Front Right (-))
Gray/Red (Front Right (+))
Gray/Black (Front Left (-))
This is for Audio Out (1)
Audio Out (1) controls the front speakers on your fader control
Audio Out (2) controls the rear speakers on your fader control
Audio Out (3) is for a sub
The above wires should be going to similar wires fro the amp. I'm not sure how the MB Quart Amp is set up. I know the MTX MUD 100.4 amp I have had all the wires labeled Front/Rear/Right/Left so that part was easy. If the wires are not labeled you'll have to play tough and guess to see which goes to what wire. To test use the fader control on radio.

So I just got my ride command working correctly with my rockford stage 4 kit last night....sounds awesome!

I purchased 3 metripack 8 pin connectors and wired up my own harnesses. I originally followed whitelightning800S wiring scheme except the balance wouldn't work correctly....I had bought one of the polaris adapters with an mbquart jst to rca adapter to play around with. I noticed that on the polaris/mbqaurt setup, the wiring was different then what whitelightning800S posted ...So i wired it to match the polaris adapter and boom, sounded great and my fader and balance worked correctly...except the sub sounded like complete crap...

Turns out, whoever created the harness, must have goofed up the pins in the 32 pin connector, cause audio amp 1, audio amp2 and audio amp 3 plugs all had the same wires going into the same spots. So, my audio amp 3 plug (the sub), when i wired to match whitelightning800S wiring, fixed the sub issue and now it sounds great...

So to recap, Audio Amp 1 and Audio Amp 2, did NOT follow whitelightning800S, but my Audio Amp 3 did...

now to try and get rid of the pop when it turns off....
 
IceCactus,
Could you please confirm your harness wiring for me? I am going through the same balance issue and following whitelightning800s - I am not able to get the balance to work properly. All of my audio amp 1,2,3 connectors are also wired identically on the harness side.

Can you confirm on the metripack connector you hooked up the following?
Pin A - Right+
Pin B - Right-
Pin G - Left-
Pin H - Left+

I currently have audio Amp1 going into my Rugged Intercom and Audio Amp2 going to the aux input of a WetSounds 10 Stealth Ultra HD. This way I can listen to music in my helmet and if I want can play the soundbar on aux because RideCommand is using the Bluetooth connection to my phone. When I'm powered down, I can simply connect to the sound bar over Bluetooth.

I have great sound in one channel on both and the other channel is weak.

Both connectors also involve going from 4 conductors and combining the grounds to go to a 3.5mm TRS plug.

I added a RF-HLC 2-channel high level converter inline before the sound bar and that took care of the slight hum I had - complete silence between tracks!

I don't have an audio pop on power down with this setup.

Thanks,
Shawn
 
IceCactus,

Could you please confirm your harness wiring for me? I am going through the same balance issue and following whitelightning800s - I am not able to get the balance to work properly. All of my audio amp 1,2,3 connectors are also wired identically on the harness side.



Can you confirm on the metripack connector you hooked up the following?

Pin A - Right+

Pin B - Right-

Pin G - Left-

Pin H - Left+



I currently have audio Amp1 going into my Rugged Intercom and Audio Amp2 going to the aux input of a WetSounds 10 Stealth Ultra HD. This way I can listen to music in my helmet and if I want can play the soundbar on aux because RideCommand is using the Bluetooth connection to my phone. When I'm powered down, I can simply connect to the sound bar over Bluetooth.



I have great sound in one channel on both and the other channel is weak.



Both connectors also involve going from 4 conductors and combining the grounds to go to a 3.5mm TRS plug.



I added a RF-HLC 2-channel high level converter inline before the sound bar and that took care of the slight hum I had - complete silence between tracks!



I don't have an audio pop on power down with this setup.



Thanks,

Shawn

That is freaking brilliant adding rugged radio into the mix. I haven't put my ride command in yet I'm in the same exact boat I have rugged radio and I have SSV works.
 
Did anyone ever fix the issue? I just installed the Ride Command unit, MB quarts amp and door speakers and I'm getting a really loud buzzing sound. If I mute it, it stops. I don't even start the motor and I get the humming/buzzing sound. When I adjust the gain it gets louder. I also get the loud popping sound when I turn it off. I thought it was the amp so I exchanged it and installed the new one but same problem. I'm thinking it may be the Ride Command Unit. I'm going to check the wire harness cause I did notice the speaker output from amp area wrong with the door speakers plug. I have white/blk going to solid white etc... with the other wires.
 
Just a quick update to my post from a few weeks ago. Using the Polaris K-Adapters (part number 2882534 from bikebandit.com ) and the MBQuart Polaris RCA adapters (part number JSTMRCA2F from mbquart.com ) , I was able to successfully connect the Ride Command audio system to a SSV Works two channel 500 watt amp. The amp is pushing the SSV Works glove box sub and two of their pod speakers. Everything is working and sounding great and I do not have the speaker "pop" that I have read about on this post. I am the most non-audio tech guy you will ever meet and a friend and I were able to wire all this up in few hours. If it was not for this post, and all the comments you guys have provided, we would not have been able to hook it up. I had to go this route with my audio as the Polaris door speakers will not fit the doors on my Trail model. Thanks again to everyone!
 
21 - 40 of 134 Posts