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Adding to Ride Command audio

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160K views 133 replies 60 participants last post by  jwfordracing83  
#1 ·
Hello all,
Just wondering if anybody has added any additional audio to their Ride Command 1000 XP. I picked one up a little while back and wouldn't mind adding some volume to it. Does it have additional audio outputs to run to a sub or tower speakers? If not, how have you added additional audio?
 
#3 ·
The Ride Command has three audio out plugs - AMP1, AMP2 & AMP 3. The Polaris 2882534 is the proprietary harness that takes the left and right audio to a small waterproof JST connector and also a single blue wire for amp remote turn on. AMP1 & 2 are designed to plug into the Polaris/MB Quart door speaker/amp kit and Audio Pods while AM3 is for the Polaris/MB Quart bed subwoofer. You could run aftermarket (Kicker, JL, Rockford, Boss, Pyle, etc) amps with the Polaris 2882534 harness and the MB Quart JSTRCA2 and some female to female RCA adapters.

There are few other threads going on right now discussing this very thing.
 
#126 ·
The Ride Command has three audio out plugs - AMP1, AMP2 & AMP 3. The Polaris 2882534 is the proprietary harness that takes the left and right audio to a small waterproof JST connector and also a single blue wire for amp remote turn on. AMP1 & 2 are designed to plug into the Polaris/MB Quart door speaker/amp kit and Audio Pods while AM3 is for the Polaris/MB Quart bed subwoofer. You could run aftermarket (Kicker, JL, Rockford, Boss, Pyle, etc) amps with the Polaris 2882534 harness and the MB Quart JSTRCA2 and some female to female RCA adapters.

There are few other threads going on right now discussing this very thing.
 
#5 ·
my buddy has the mb quart polaris sound bar, and it has some wires coming out of it, and the ride command has the 3 audio outs that MNRZR800 mentions. Does anyone know of a cable/wire harness that will connect the soundbar to the ride command?

MB Quart JSTRCA2 does not show up on their website anymore and MB Quart appears to have no customer service, telling you to contact a dealer or audio professional. Thing is that dealers don't even know how to use the ride command really.
 
#8 ·
I was told by the polaris ride command specialist that the only audio that is plug and play are the polaris door speakers, pods, and sub. And that other audio can be integrated but they could not tell me how to do it. I have yet to get mine to work with all the proper wiring harnesses. Possibly the polaris amp is required for all audio even internally amplified non polaris sound bars?
 
#10 ·
Quarter Note Blog | MB Quart

Thank you for sharing this link. Just found out the hard way with purchasing Ride command, Rockford fosgate stage 5 system, and all the stupid Polaris adapters. The adapters ordered include the ones needed for ride command, MB quart JST to RCA to hook into amps. Where to start. First the adapters work but the jst connector from Polaris and MB quart all have male ends. So I had to cut and solder all the connections together for the inputs to the amp. Power everything up and it sounds like shit. Trouble shot for two hours trying to see what I had wrong. Did research today to find out that the ride command has crossovers built in. The link above explains the issues. So guys who want to hook up audio to ride command be aware and don't waist 5K like I did!
 
#11 ·
I have a video on youtube which may help. I too cut the proprietary connectors and hard wired them into a MTX MUD 100.4 amp. My system sounds great. I will agree its a mess to figure out the wires and I'm guessing thats your problem is you have a wire backwards. I have one simple mistake in my video is I say positive twice where one is negitive. Easy to figure out though (Black-negitive) (red-positive) Main thing to understand is Amp-1 is for front speakers if I recall and Amp-2 is for rear speakers. don't cross those wires or you'll have a mess. Wires from amp-1 goes solely to make front speakers work and etc.
You should be able to find my video on youtube under
title is: MTX Mud 100.4 Amp Install to Ride Command
 
#73 · (Edited)
I have a video on youtube which may help. I too cut the proprietary connectors and hard wired them into a MTX MUD 100.4 amp. My system sounds great. I will agree its a mess to figure out the wires and I'm guessing thats your problem is you have a wire backwards. I have one simple mistake in my video is I say positive twice where one is negitive. Easy to figure out though (Black-negitive) (red-positive) Main thing to understand is Amp-1 is for front speakers if I recall and Amp-2 is for rear speakers. don't cross those wires or you'll have a mess. Wires from amp-1 goes solely to make front speakers work and etc.
You should be able to find my video on youtube under
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0jYE7na1Mo
title is: MTX Mud 100.4 Amp Install to Ride Command
Great posts and very helpful info!
I've followed your posts and YouTube video but still have questions on the speakers. If you wire the amp as per your video I assume you connect the speakers to the amp. But there are two other blue flat pin plugs not mentioned are they used for anything? I think they say 7 ohms, look like Power and ground.
I see amps have front inputs but don't know what they are used for....maybe iPod input, other music sources?
I have a 4 speaker SSV overhead speaker system but thought I'd add a couple of pod speakers and amp to connect to the Ride Command. I have no speakers connected to RC now, didn't want the door speakers. Have considered trying to integrate the SSV or split the speakers using front for RC but might get in over my head, LOL.

Edit-After reading the rest of this thread I think I'll pursue the Aux adapter like Wix makes. Cleaner than adding a new system.
This is my first experience with this type of Audio.
 
#71 ·
Yes, just finally got the adapters from a LONG backorder wait just to hear all kinds of horrible noise on the door speakers after I do any navigating away from the audio screen. The AMP 2 and AMP 3 appear to be just fine but the AMP 1 output is horrible. ALso, the whole thing pops extremely loudly when you power down! After this much time, money, and waiting I am not impressed at all! I was running the MB Quart little BT module with line splitters to run the doors, pods, and sub and got better audio through that even though the RZR would cause interference for about the first minute or so after starting it up. At least the sound was clear with no obnoxious distortion/noise at the doors and whip crack pop at power off!
 
#14 ·
That's not what I wanted to hear. Sometimes mine barely buzzes and the stereo is plenty loud I just don't like it because you can hear it when it's turned down but sometimes when you cycle the key off and on the buzzing is real loud and then you can't hardly hear the music once you cycle the key again it usually goes back. It pops through the speakers really loud when you turn off the ignition too
 
#16 ·
Typical response from Polaris and MB Quart. No saying either is bad, I've owned 4 Polaris RZR and 2 snowmobiles and between the six machines Ive got over 4,000 miles on the machines and all I've ever had to replace was 2 u-joints, heat sensor and one starting issue.
What I am knocking is it seems more and more the reps, mechanics, techs whomever cannot ever figure the problems out faster than the people using them. It seems they are good at bolt on accessories and easy repairs but when it gets down to some work, they never have an answer. Not true for everyone though.
My guess is some wires are connected wrong between the plugs. Another guy wrote on another ride command stereo topic that he noticed his positive front right was connected to his negative front right. That is incorrect. I would personally recommend looking closely at the wires and see what goes to what.
You should have
Blue to Blue (remote start)
Brown to Brown (negative)
white/red to something/red (positive connection)
white/black to something/black (negative connection)
gray/Red to something/red (other positive connection)
Gray/Black to something/black (other negative connection)
the connections should be your audio out (1) or audio out(2) connecting to the MB Quart connector. If the wires don't match just cut the stupid connectors and connect the wires manually. After that heat shrink with marine heat shrink. Hope this helps, I'm going to go see if I can take a good picture of my connections to help everyone.
 
#17 ·
So I got my stuff neatly packed away and I didn't fell like cutting everything and putting it back.
I did however double check Audio Out (3) and all outputs are the same. They have (6) wire going into them.
Blue-Remote which should be going to another blue from the amp
Brown-Negative which should be doing the same
White/Red (Front Left (+))
White/Black (Front Right (-))
Gray/Red (Front Right (+))
Gray/Black (Front Left (-))
This is for Audio Out (1)
Audio Out (1) controls the front speakers on your fader control
Audio Out (2) controls the rear speakers on your fader control
Audio Out (3) is for a sub
The above wires should be going to similar wires fro the amp. I'm not sure how the MB Quart Amp is set up. I know the MTX MUD 100.4 amp I have had all the wires labeled Front/Rear/Right/Left so that part was easy. If the wires are not labeled you'll have to play tough and guess to see which goes to what wire. To test use the fader control on radio.
 
#35 ·
So I just got my ride command working correctly with my rockford stage 4 kit last night....sounds awesome!

I purchased 3 metripack 8 pin connectors and wired up my own harnesses. I originally followed whitelightning800S wiring scheme except the balance wouldn't work correctly....I had bought one of the polaris adapters with an mbquart jst to rca adapter to play around with. I noticed that on the polaris/mbqaurt setup, the wiring was different then what whitelightning800S posted ...So i wired it to match the polaris adapter and boom, sounded great and my fader and balance worked correctly...except the sub sounded like complete crap...

Turns out, whoever created the harness, must have goofed up the pins in the 32 pin connector, cause audio amp 1, audio amp2 and audio amp 3 plugs all had the same wires going into the same spots. So, my audio amp 3 plug (the sub), when i wired to match whitelightning800S wiring, fixed the sub issue and now it sounds great...

So to recap, Audio Amp 1 and Audio Amp 2, did NOT follow whitelightning800S, but my Audio Amp 3 did...

now to try and get rid of the pop when it turns off....
 
#20 ·
Its a little hard to see all that, but maybe cutting it wouldn't be as fun. if you do cut the wires I would cut just below the black adaptor. I only see (5) wires.
Can you write back and say what each wire is like what I did above.
I see the (+) and (-) and those are easy.
Those will need to go to your Bus Bar.
The Long Blue is easy, that will connect to the Blue on Audio (1) or Audio (2) which ever you prefer.
From there, I cannot make out the rest of the cables.
I do see a white/black and that should connect to the White/black from the Audio (1) or (2) and I see a gray/Black and again that should connect to the Gray/Black.
The one wire I don't see is the brown wire which is your negative ground.
Not 100% sure if you realistically need that wire. Maybe call a local stereo car installer and ask if you need a negative ground wire when going from a amp to a head unit.
If you don't than cap the negaitve ground from the audio out and connect the rest and i would think you would be fine.
Before you do cut if you do look at the connectors and see if all the wires line up exactly like I posted above.
The one solo cord looks to be the speaker connection cord and just plug the speaker into that and you should be good there.
Let me know and good luck.
If they do, you should be able to direct connect but no guarantee that the connections are solid and they may cause some feedback people are talkinga about.
 
#21 ·
Another option is see if you can return this amp and buy an aftermarket (4) channel amp and you'll be able to add more speakers in the future. This amp will only allow you to run (2) speakers and if you want to add speakers, you'll have to buy another amp anyhow.
I believe the cost for this unit is $150.00 and the amp I bought is a MTX MUD 100.4 and I'm not saying to buy that amp but that was $250.00 and I can add another (2) speakers and I should be able to add a Sub too if I choose.
 
#22 ·
Did some additional research. If you would like you don't have to have the ground comming from AUDIO (1) or (2) going to a brown wire. You can connect it to the frame as a ground or cap it off. Also, most likely if your getting feed back from the radio, Its most possible "drunk john" on the assembley line insert the wires backward. This is a common thing among any plug and play from factory.
So I would check to see the wires are matching up from the amp to the Audio output. If not either cut and correct or buy the tool and push the pins out and correct them.
 
#23 ·
Installed a line output converter before the amp today, and it fixes the noise problem.

After getting the polaris door speakers and amp working properly. I also adjusted the gain and ride command equalizer settings, i do not think the sound quality is there for the price. I would recommend cutting the harness and direct wiring an aftermarket amp and speakers. Thats the route I will be taking.
 
#29 ·
yes, I bought the polaris door speakers. I do think they sound good with the amp I bought, not sure how others are sounding. If they are sounding bad, i would think its because a person doens't have the amp set up correctly and maybe not enough power going to them. I will admit, if your looking for alot of bass, these may not be the best. At some point I will compliment them with some additional speakers that will provide a bit lower end sound, but meanwhile, I am happy to produce noise!!
 
#30 ·
I got my High lifter back from the dealership and got my ride command with mb quart door speakers and the speaker pods. I am getting the same loud pop when I shut the ride command down, the dealership was aware of it and I hope someone can figure it out because it can't be good for the speakers. Holy crap they are loud though!
 
#31 ·
I'm about to part part ways with my Maverick and join the RZR family. I'm ordering the high lifter 4 seater with the same audio set up. Can you post an update once they fix the popping? I'm curious about the sound and quality with only 2 pods and the door speakers. I have 4 pods now and they are awesome. I'd hate to shell out that kind of money and feel like the sound isn't up to par. Thanks!
 
#32 ·
This thread has been extremely helpful. Thank you to all of you that have commented. I ordered an awesome sound system today from Scott at SSV Works. With the adapter cable, he says that their front speaker pods and subwoofer will work with the Ride Command System. I will let everyone know how well it works once its delivered and installed.

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