I would start by checking voltage at the bus. Put the meter on DC, black lead on the center and red lead on the left one. See what you have with key off and with key on.

 

Is the relay clicking when you turn the key? It could just be a bad relay as well. If testing by yourself, you can unbolt the orange wire, turn on machine, then connect the orange wire to the ACC terminal and feel for the relay "click".

 

@CrazyElecE I will play with the ACC line, are you talking about the main ACC from RZR or the orange line on the fuse block?

@Bowman89 I did check that, when I put my battery cable directly to the fuse block everything works fine as well. I just lose the ability to kill power with my key on the ACC which was the main purpose of getting this fuse block.

 

What if you just put a relay in between the new cable from the battery and the ACC Fuse block. Then connect the relay to the ACC terminal on the RZR fuse block (orange cable) so when the key switches on it closes the relay and your ACC Fuse block will have power straight from the battery. Also might want a circuit breaker in there too.

 

If you have power to the hot side of the buss bar, then it sounds like you have an issue with the ACC post not supplying power when you turn the key on. Best bet is going to be grab you a multimeter like @Nearly_Missed suggested and take some readings. Once you have that you can come back and one of us should be able to help you pin point the issue.

Side note, did you check the fuse for the power block and make sure it didn’t get popped somehow while installing?

 

I did, I pulled the wiring harness from the relay and stuck one of stuck the line out for my parker pumper and it worked, something within the relay is not functioning, my guess is the ACC from the RZR harness. I'll get some readings today. Thank you!

 

The fuse on the firewall behind the dash below the the steering shaft in a black box is probably blown.

 

Do you have a wiring diagram? It's time to start tracing out the wire, it has to either be a bad fuse, broken wire, or the key switch is not working properly. With a wiring diagram you can check to see what to check to track it down. Back feeding the signal like that is just asking for a dead battery if you leave it.

 

I have not been able to find one online for my 2015 XP41K, it always takes me to the 2020 model.. 🤦‍♂️

 

The online ones don't have the wiring diagrams, you'd need to get a hardcopy service manual to get the wiring diagrams.

ETA: you might also get lucky with a friendly local dealer and see if they will give you a photocopy or printout of the wiring diagram, never hurts to ask.

 

 

I'm finally back home and will check again but I'm pretty sure on my 2015 XP4 1k the fuse and relay center are under the rear driver's side seat.

 

UPDATE!!!!

@Bowman89 @CrazyElecE @Jleedog

Thank you for all your help, jokes on me!

The fuse that powers ACC wire under the hood at the bussbar is not an Accessory... It is the fuse 10a labeled TERM!! I feel like an idiot 🤣. I tracked down the wiring diagram and followed the wire backwards, realized why interior lights come on when I jump the battery to the ACC post.. it all makes sense now!

Post 39 - RC3A OG/WH
Splice ACC Term Fuse Out
RC3B OG/WH to Terminal Block ACC (also powers RC3C RD/DG & RC3D RD/DG - interior lights)

my ride is a 2015 XP4 1K EPS so the fuse panel is under the driver's side rear seat.

I learned a lot on this journey, I may need to upgrade some wires that get warm when my light bar is on and downgrade some fuses to 15's or 20's to be on the safe side. Also, may eliminate the relays that came with all my lights, not sure if it will make for a more simple circuit...

 

Warm wires are usually a sign of loose connections or undersized wires.