Have had a RZR since the 2008 model. My opinion is to ALWAYS stick with the OEM filters. Tested a bunch of stuff in 2008. Nothing worked. Polaris is very good at provided the filters that work best. Anything that flows better means it is not filtering as good as the OEM. Lots of false information from those who want to sell their product.

 

Have had a RZR since the 2008 model. My opinion is to ALWAYS stick with the OEM filters. Tested a bunch of stuff in 2008. Nothing worked. Polaris is very good at provided the filters that work best. Anything that flows better means it is not filtering as good as the OEM. Lots of false information from those who want to sell their product AND THOSE POSTING HERE

Do a little research on Donaldson...I think they just might know a little more about making air filters than Polaris:wink

 

Adding on. You are correct ZERO dust is the goal. Good advice, change your oil and filter now and again in 20 hrs or less to flush out the dirt in the engine.

 

Zero dust, Zero Dust, Zero dust !!
My 2014 has over 5000 miles, I clean the air filter every third or fourth ride, I have never seen any dust.

 

do you have the stock filter? how do you clean your filter?

 

I have been running the Powercore the one from AA sells ...and also the OEM. I always grease the rubber lip ...and I have not seen any dust what so ever and I check this closely every time I change or clean it
I would say the Powercore and the Donaldson / OEM both work excellent. The only time I have seen any trace of dust is when I did not add more grease to the plastic intake lip

 

Riding in the Arizona dust for 5800 miles on my XP, using the “expensive” Polaris filter, made by Donaldson. Zero dust.......blow it out periodically, then change it after a few cleanings.

If somebody else can do better, prove it.

 

Just my .02 - regardless of which air filter you choose, anybody who rides in significant dust should be looking at adding an S&B Particle Separator to their rig. I have 109 hours/2087 miles on mine, almost all of it riding in desert dust - I'm still running the original air filter it came with off the showroom floor and it still looks like brand new. The inside of my airbox is pristine - no dust in the airbox, none in the intake. I inspect it every few rides, but have never had to clean my filter or airbox even once.


I thought the S&B was a lot of hype when the service guys at the dealership highly recommended it to me at the time I bought my RZR. Nearly 2 years of experience with it has made me a believer.

 

Just my .02 - regardless of which air filter you choose, anybody who rides in significant dust should be looking at adding an S&B Particle Separator to their rig. I have 109 hours/2087 miles on mine, almost all of it riding in desert dust - I'm still running the original air filter it came with off the showroom floor and it still looks like brand new. The inside of my air box is pristine - no dust in the airbox, none in the intake.


I thought the S&B was a lot of hype when the service guys at the dealership highly recommended it to me at the time I bought my RZR. Nearly 2 years of experience with it has made me a believer.

In Arizona every machine should have one out the door. Other states around Arizona as well.

 

Yeah shoot...I don’t know when it got in which is what I’m bummed about. I have the one from AA and hoping that the dust is from my previous filter, the oem that I tapped out a couple times. I remember it was PACKED with dust when I did...Guess I’ll have to pull the intake all apart and clean it. Keep running the AA and make sure it’s not dusting the engine, and switch over if it is.

 

So glad I put the sb partical filter on my 18 turbo. I ride the wilds in northern nh and the dust at times is so bad I had to change out OEM filter every 100 or so miles. Now it's like night and day hardly any crap makes it to the filter. One of the best purchases I've made for my ride

 

Please take a moment to review your factory service manual about maintaining your air filter. Weather it be the standard white or blue element, it clearly states that you should not attempt to clean them. The media is not engineered to be cleaned and can be compromised if you do so. That being said tapping off excess dirt to give a little more service life is fine, but blowing it out or washing it is just not a good idea.

We spent nearly 2 years developing our sever duty Desercraft air filter. When others were concerned with HP gains and flow we concentrated on filtration down to sub micron levels. By the numbers we have the most efficient filter on the market at those levels. Our combination of medias is born from an industrial back ground an is designed to be serviced and will not be compromised by blowing it out. Although our filter can take the abuse of blowing them out we recommend and prefer that our customers wash them out which results in a better service overall.

If you would like to see us servicing our severe duty air filter and our prefilters, check out our FB page at the link below.
Regards,
https://www.facebook.com/Desertcraft-636661456376234/

 

Donaldson is the industry standard when it comes to industrial applications. There is a reason a large majority of industrial machinery comes with a Donaldson air filter system as OEM. Not just an "air filter" but an engineered air filtration system.

We spent nearly 2 years developing our sever duty Desercraft air filter. When others were concerned with HP gains and flow we concentrated on filtration down to sub micron levels. By the numbers we have the most efficient filter on the market at those levels.

I've seen you make this claim many times and I'm not disputing it but I would be interested in seeing the flow bench data and differential pressure drop vs flow. And what company verified the results?

 

I ran foam, fabric, and paper filters and never had a problem.

Foam Filter: I submerged the filter into a bucket of oil (maxima, no toil, etc) and squeeze excess oil off the filter. Do not twist! I cleaned and re oiled the filter after every ride. I also kept a couple of spares in a zip lock bag. I’m currently running a dual stage filter now on my quad with a clean intake tract.

Stock OEM filter- I tossed and replaced after every ride and didn’t attempt to blow it out. No issues. I accumulated several and some of my friends would reuse them calling me nuts. Haha

I ran 8 ply fabric filters in the past and sprayed around the base, inside, and outside of the filter element. I had to prop those filters up for a few hours to allow the excess oil to run off or the oil would be in my box.


The service intervals vary based on riding conditions not miles if you’re behind a parade of units toss or properly clean the filter before the next ride. Ideally, it’s not good to have dirt in the intact tract but if it’s not using oil you’re still in the green. Just take the tube off and thoroughly clean it.

 

Quads or RZR? Different beast.

 

The S&B Particle Separator ejects 94% of the dusty air before it reaches your stock filter. This saves you time and money from constantly having to replace your air filter.

PM if you need one. I use one on my UTV and have zero dust problems. I lost a motor on a 1000 from dust. S&B is cheap insurance for your RZR or Ranger.

https://www.proutvparts.com/search?type=product&q=S&B

 

Am I correct in assuming the ejected dust and dirt is dumped all over the back of the vehicle covering all the gear that is stored back there?

 

You won't notice any more dust in the back than is already there from riding in the DIRT. if your rzr isnt dusty all over the outside just from driving then you won't need an S&B or worry about any other filter for that matter. The S&B is to prevent dirt getting inside the motor.

 

Here is the filtration chart at the 250cfm flow rate - Our goal is for filtration efficiency.

Desertcraft
Micron range/ Fractional efficiency %
.3 to .5 - 89.6%
.7 to 1.0- 99.6%
3 to 5- 100%

Competitor R (Cleanable)
.3 to .5- 71.6%
.7 to 1.0- 95.4%
3 to 5- 99.8%

Competitor S (Cleanable)
.3 to .5- 10.8%
.7 to 1.0- 30.8%
3 to 5- 91.1%

Competitor D (Non cleanable, Disposable)
.3 to .5- 75.6%
.7 to 1.0- 94.8%
3 to 5- 99.9%

 

Sorry those are just random numbers - flow bench data, flow vs Delta P, flow certification, testing company

 

The data shows filtration percentage at micron levels - at 250cfm flow rate.

 

The data shows filtration percentage at micron levels - at 250cfm flow rate. If you are looking for a filter that has a high flow rate then our filter is probably note the one you are looking for. If you are looking for filtration efficiency then our Desertcraft filter is one to look at.

Not disputing your claim but rather looking to validate it. Nothing personal but I don't take anyone's word for something, specially when they are selling a product. I'm looking for empirical data to backup your claim. Without flow bench data vs differential pressure drop those numbers are useless. Flow benches are calibrated and carry a certification along with the testing agency. I read once where you stated "Verfied by independent testing laboratory", let's see the data.

Flow at 250cfm is pointless as it pertains to a RZR engine. A 200hp engine only requires 138cfm of air flow.

 

Both my 17 turbo and 14 1k had this happen. tried the r2c, Polaris and the Polaris Donaldson and they all did it.
Went with a UMP on both machines recently. If I had the room I would have added the S&B unit. Too many mods.....

 

And I forgot to mention the factory turbo airbox was warped and starting to burn above where the turbo is. 90 percent of the time the wife drives the turbo.The XP1K was fine.

 

I can only speak of what I have seen. 2008 RZR dusted top end with foam filter oiled correctly and stock filter but this model had a bad design.

Seen quads and diesels with dusted intakes running K&N.

Stock 2016 RZR 900 intake is spotless running stock paper filters running in California desert.

30 years of running dirt bikes in California desert with oiled foam filters and never dust in any intakes.

 

I can only speak of what I have seen. 2008 RZR dusted top end with foam filter oiled correctly and stock filter but this model had a bad design.

Seen quads and diesels with dusted intakes running K&N.

Stock 2016 RZR 900 intake is spotless running stock paper filters running in California desert.

Wasn't a bad design that was the problem. First time anyone built such a machine. Polaris fixed it with a new filter media. The same paper used in snow moving equipment. Very fine media. It worked. Later years did not suffer the same issue IF the OEM filter was used. I tested all the other types of filters in my 08 while Polaris was looking for the answer. All the foam one and two layer foam with different oils. Gauze filters. Any and everything I could find. All others failed to stop anything much at all. In my book the only machine Polaris has done correct with air intake is the RS1 with the up high at roof intake. The cleaner the air is at the intake the less the filter has to do. On my 08, piped both air intakes up front under the hood and turned the tool box area into a big flat filter box. Took care of dirty filters.

The setup now is really pretty good with the air intake up high and the fine mesh pre filter material. Problem. All the aftermarket filters tested in 08 and still being sold and dusting engines that the op's blame Polaris for making junk when it is the aftermarket filters that are junk.

 

use donaldson filters on ALL my farm motors they are the best!

 

The S&B engineer I was talking to stated a 925cc, at 8800 rpm at 14psi would demand a max CFM of 281 at 19 psi 330cfm and 25 psi 388 cfm. Which is pretty close to this calculators prediction https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/CFM.html UMP states their 10931T super filter will flow up to 600cfm clean, he did state he hadn't tested it but the restriction that we would experience first on built engines with high boost would be the stock ducting and frogskin inlet and not the ump or even the stock donaldson while clean. Talking with a first level donaldson tech they weren't sure if they had a precleaner that was optimum for us, she was under the impression that we would a precleaner for our whole range of CFM demands from idle to wide open which varies a lot on our application when compared to the industrial stuff they are used to providing for. Most of their round and powercore cleaners have about a 70-100 cfm optimum range with their recommended H2O restricton. Caviat to this post is I have virtually no experience in this realm so it's all internet/customer service/sales research done to try and be an educated consumer. My background is in Heavy lift helicopter turbine engines and the system we used EAPS/MEAPs that is one of the models S&B based their design off of caused us a loss of 1% to 2% torque or 500 to 1000lbs of lifting capability. S&B stated at 240cfm their rzr system showed no loss in HP and they believed the first thing to fail under demand would be their ducting. Donaldson does have Topspin precleaners that might fight our applicaiton: P/Ns H002852 for stock Turbo and H002853 for a big bore High PSI application. Thought about mounting one of these ducted right on top of a UMP race setup or an S&B right on top of a UMP but that's pretty pricey an maybe overkill? Also not sure if that H2O restriction would be additive if running a precleaner with an air cleaner. or where our sweet spot is for H20 restriction? I've read 10-15inches is normal but not sure. Sorry for wondering into the bushes probably really overthinking this stuff.

 

This is all very interesting but I am going by MY real world experience which is MY OEM filter was covered with dust inside along with the inlet tube going into the motor. I've switched to the Desertcraft filter and I have zero dust inside. Maybe I got a bad filter from the factory, don't know, don't care I will not use one ever again. I like the idea of the S&B particle separator as well and will likely add one since it seems like cheap insurance.

 

Too much into the weeds and I was just talking generalities. Like I said HP/CFM is generic and that was for NA. Agreed and like I said there is a lot more to (displacement, VE, rpms, NA/FI, etc..) it but it was just a quick example. Pressure drop (restriction) is relevant for the ability to flow xx CFM at given level without causing too much restriction.

 

The restriction as I understand it is the difficulty the engine has in getting it’s demanded cfm. So like a straw that is too small or a clogged filter. You can still get your required cfm out of said filter or air cleaner but you have to suck a lot harder to reach the correct volume of air, if it has to suck too hard it decreases performance, if it’s not having to work hard to pull the air I don’t know what this does on the engine side as far as performance but with an air cleaner I’m guessing this would decrease the swirl effect that separates air from larger particles like dust so more things would be drawn to the filter. Part of the reason Ive gone into researching this is I’m looking to have a built motor and already have a bigger turbo. I want to protect this investment and maintain efficiency. On a stock rzr I would have already bought a S&B and ran the Donaldson until changing it out and then probably moved to the desertcraft. On a side note I’ve had some try to say if you want horsepower go with a k&n or a less effective filter if you want proper filtration go with ours. To me that is not a necessary trade off. Higher horsepower rigs than ours get driven in dustier conditions with better or equivalent filtration. It’s just finding the right product for the application.

 

I've posted this before, usually during an oiled foam vs paper argument. Some said it wasn't relevant but I disagree. It's a well-documented filter test, including data like how much dirt leaked past the filter, etc. Enjoy. (I run an R2C)
https://forums.nicoclub.com/debunking-the-k-n-myth-why-oem-is-better-t180100.html

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

I have used the R2C filter and the first filter worked fine, but the 2nd filter showed a fine dust in the intake tube. I went to a Donaldson filter after that and have had no further intake tube dust. I know the R2C is a highly touted filter. I’m not sure if the filter was a factory defect or it was my fault for some reason. Just my experience.

 

I really wish there was a like button for a few of these comments here...heh, thanks guys.

For the record, I realized I didn’t blow out my filter after a 5 day trip I did, then rode again in some of the dustiest conditions I have ever seen in my life. @Michale was there - he led the group through Grizzly Flat. In a few parts I recall 3 or 4 inches of that poof dust! I dumped out my filter today and about 2 lbs of that dust poured out of it. I’m thinking if I had just cleaned my filter regularly it wouldn’t have clogged up and sucked the dust through.... lessons learned.