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Okay. My belts don't hold up. I've gone through 1 stock belt and 3 after-market belts. I've tried a heavy duty belt it lasted 200 miles. I've washed them and broke them in as directed. I ride mainly in the sand with sand tires and 8 lbs of boost MPI supercharger 80 HP. Yes I know the combination of sand, boost and extra weight with the rzr 4 is hard on a belt. Does anyone one have a problem going through belts. I've talked with people on the sand and they seem not to have the problem that I have. Could my clutches be offset. Any suggestion, people to contact, etc.
thanks
 

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King of crash!
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Okay. My belts don't hold up. I've gone through 1 stock belt and 3 after-market belts. I've tried a heavy duty belt it lasted 200 miles. I've washed them and broke them in as directed. I ride mainly in the sand with sand tires and 8 lbs of boost MPI supercharger 80 HP. Yes I know the combination of sand, boost and extra weight with the rzr 4 is hard on a belt. Does anyone one have a problem going through belts. I've talked with people on the sand and they seem not to have the problem that I have. Could my clutches be offset. Any suggestion, people to contact, etc.
thanks
if your clutches were off you would think it would drag and youd have problems with it draging and hard to get in gear...

it also could be your clutch isnt adj corectly
 

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Check the alinement of your secondary. There are very thin shims behind it. Even if you off by one shim it will eat your belts. Another possibility is your spending to much time in H range at to low of a speed.:popcorn:
 

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Welcome: Yep....Get a hold of Dale at Dirty dawg....I have heard thats the one that know his stuff.....To bad we dont have BigMikeVader any-more..He was the best "Bar None" at answering this type of question....It Kinda sucks with-out him...
 
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Are you familiar with CVT belt drives? If you are using low range when appropriate then you have a problem...
How exactly are the belts failing?..
If the clutching is not set up properly you could be getting excessive belt slip..the heat will KILL the belt in a heartbeat...
 

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if your clutch isn't adjusted right you could have belt slip, that heats the belt, and heat makes belts fail.
How many rpms are you seeing on a big dune climb? it should shoot up to about 6000 rpm and stay there.

do you have a vent between the seats to let more air into the clutch?
you might also want to cut some holes in the clutch cover to let more air out.

with my stage 1 turbo rzr-s I was getting about 500-600 miles out of a epi severe duty belt.
 

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I het when we are trail riding and we go from open wide go fast trails to all of sudden we have to go slow and i have to keep stopping and going to slow from fast and back and fourth. it would be nice to have it automactic or not have to stop to change the gears.
 

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What is the reqs for L vs. H? The manual seems to indicate anything 7 MPH or slower to use L and above 7 use High.
 

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someone on here said low up till 20 is that right? i hat going up to 20 then stopping to put it in high then back and fourth. does the book really say high after 7 mph ?
 

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Yeah croc79, I'm burnin belts off too. Gone through 3-4 stock and 3-4 aftermarket and I've got less than 300 miles on mine. I have removed the plastic spacer in my clutch and that seems to be about the time the problem started. I'll have it back on next week so I'll know if that's the problem.
 

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Mna that sucks. will a ext warnetty cover the belt ?my dealer says people are driving in high at low speeds and i told them no thats wrong. its the problem with the belts or somethings not right for this to happen to all these rzrs 4 ?
 
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I see some many of these threads where people make the hi/lo thing so much more difficult than it needs to ne. I think some of yall just need some more experience with a belt drive CVT...driving one properly is not rocket science..
There is no magic speed..the manual does say something to the effect for continuous/sustained operation below 7 use low...above 7 use high..gotta use some common sense..why would anyone accelerate up to 20..then STOP and put it in high to continue? If you are riding fast trails use high..if you are towing,riding in deep sand,climbing a steep hill, negtioating terrain at slower speeds(less than 10 mph) use low...it really isn' that hard is it??
If you hear the engine bogging/straining..you shoul be in low..
Some guys never ride faster than say 20...in that case they may prefer to stay in low...that doesn't mean that you have to stay in low below 20...
If you are riding trails at say 30 mph and have to slow down to 10 for a curve..no need to switch to low... Now lets say you come up on a steep sandy hill and slow down to 10 o climb the hill..then low would be a good choice..
You really just have to get a feel for it..if you can't get a feel for it then I don't know what to tell you.
 

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HIGHOCTANE

True, it was our first time out this weekend and we ran High all day, we were running flat and up/down hills but we were going 15-20 most of the time. All seemed well and I didn't hear the engine bogging down, but then I'm still getting used to the machine.
 

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what iam saying is the trails go from open area to where you can run 40 then you will come up to winding turns and very tight areas where you can only go around 5 to 10 for around 3 mins then back up to the wide areas full speed. the trails are open and tight as youa re driving.
 
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what iam saying is the trails go from open area to where you can run 40 then you will come up to winding turns and very tight areas where you can only go around 5 to 10 for around 3 mins then back up to the wide areas full speed. the trails are open and tight as youa re driving.
Yep in that case..you should shift to low in order to help keep the belt cool(not only does low lessen the load on the belt, it also cools beter because it is turning faster)..nature of the beast. I wish my RZR4 had A/C,CRUISE,hot tub and a flat screen tv:rofl3:
 
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HIGHOCTANE

True, it was our first time out this weekend and we ran High all day, we were running flat and up/down hills but we were going 15-20 most of the time. All seemed well and I didn't hear the engine bogging down, but then I'm still getting used to the machine.
My post wasn't really directed at you...I will say though that I have NEVER been able to ride all day and not use low at all..not saying you can't but I'd think about the only place I could do that would be on hard pack roads. There are alot of places the RZR will go in high..doesn't mean I would use high in all those places.
If you are the type who can hear an engine's load(believe it or not some people can not) and you didn't hear it straining then you were probably doing just fine...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I see some many of these threads where people make the hi/lo thing so much more difficult than it needs to ne. I think some of yall just need some more experience with a belt drive CVT...driving one properly is not rocket science..
There is no magic speed..the manual does say something to the effect for continuous/sustained operation below 7 use low...above 7 use high..gotta use some common sense..why would anyone accelerate up to 20..then STOP and put it in high to continue? If you are riding fast trails use high..if you are towing,riding in deep sand,climbing a steep hill, negtioating terrain at slower speeds(less than 10 mph) use low...it really isn' that hard is it??
If you hear the engine bogging/straining..you shoul be in low..
Some guys never ride faster than say 20...in that case they may prefer to stay in low...that doesn't mean that you have to stay in low below 20...
If you are riding trails at say 30 mph and have to slow down to 10 for a curve..no need to switch to low... Now lets say you come up on a steep sandy hill and slow down to 10 o climb the hill..then low would be a good choice..
You really just have to get a feel for it..if you can't get a feel for it then I don't know what to tell you.

Highoctane, Help me out here. I never ride Low-maybe that's my problem, but I usually never ride below 20 mph for more then 20 seconds, if that. From time to time I can smell the belt but when I do I let it cool off. I have installed a vent between the rear seats and a fan to cool the clutch compartment. When the belts blow the clutch is very hot and the belts wear on one side, which made me think clutch alinement. I ride snowmobile so I'm familiar with these clutches. Of course a snowmobile clutch gets more cold air flow then the RZR 4. I don't have this problem with my snowmobile that has 240 HP and climbs hills steeper and longer than a RZR could ever dream of. I'm new to sidexside so if you could give me some suggestion I would appreciate it. Can you shift on the fly from high to low and low to high? I hope I don't have to always shift depending on speed with a snowmobile it does matter. When I first supercharged my rzr I was hitting the rev-limiter at 5800 rpm. I sent my oem computer to MPI to have it raised to 6800 rpm. It doesn't take me long to hit 5500 rpm. MPI said if you hit the revlimiter then the belt will slip. They said by raising the revlimit it should take care of the belts braking. 50 miles after doing it I blew a belt. I have over 25000.00 in my RZR and spend 120.00 ever 180 mile for a new belt and $ 6.00 a gallon for 110 octane. I need to find a solution to this belt situation or I'll have to sale. Maybe buy a sandrail.
Please let me know if you have any suggestioin.
thanks
 

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Any time you stop put it in park and let it idle for a little to cool down, if you are running hard and stop on top of a dune to talk put it in park leave it running, that pulley is very very hot if you shut it off it melts too the pulley then when you start going again it pulls a few fibers off and the un-raveling begins.
 
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