Most 800's I've been around tick to some degree. Just depend how loud your's is I suppose. Mine has ticked since I bought it with 100hr and 100 miles. I've put another 400hr and 4000 miles on it since, still running strong.

 

I have read on here about the cam and lifters wearing on some 800's though. The common thought of cause was not using oil with enough zinc in it if I remember correctly.

 

I have read that some of the engine ticking (clunking) comes from fore & aft movement of the counter balance shaft.
I have not been inside my engine, but if you are tearing yours down, it might be an area to look at.
Search the 800 forum for "PRV" for pointers on PRV service and oil pressure control.

 

Engine is out, now my back hurts.
gonna rest some then off to the lake for some fun on the water....

 

 

Its a goofy engine design. Both pistons move in parallel and are at TDC at the same time. I've heard it called a 360 degree design. Since there is no counter acting force from the pistons, it requires a huge counter balance mechanism to compensate. Seems unnecessary to me having that extra weight and centrifugal motion force versus opposed cylinders.

 

definitely odd. Then the engine is in the chassis in a non conventional matter.

 

Good job. Suggest taking that oil fill tube off. I neglected to do so on my rebuild and it ended up getting bent and kinked.

 

Well, didn’t really find anything amiss. I do however have a lot of for/aft movement of the counter balance shaft Like CA 800 suggested. It had to come apart anyway to heli coil the PRV bolt. Hate to get metal shavings down there. pic kinda sux but you can see the one thread left. I’d also hate for that bolt to fly out when out on the trail.

 

Took my lifters apart and all looks ok in side them. Should (can) I replace just the lifters on the old cam just for piece of mind. Remember I was only getting oil up two of the push rods for some reason.

 

Wow on the prv plug. I think it could bust out with oil pressure.

How far down you planning to go? If to the bottom, I'd say change the cam. Mine broke into 4 pieces when the engine seized.

 

What year is your RZR? Have you done anything with the pinion nut in the rear diff?

 

Are the push rods open? Can you spray carb cleaner thru them?

 

its tore completely down.
2013.
already did the pinion nut thingy.
made my own tools.
push rods are open.

 

The stock PRV bolt measures 12mm (.47") under the head.
Verify that PO did not install longer bolt to catch remaining threads.
They may have also shortened spring, if bolt is longer.
All of this will affect oil pressure.

 

The stock PRV bolt measures 12mm (.47") under the head.
Verify that PO did not install longer bolt to catch remaining threads.
They may have also shortened spring, if bolt is longer.
All of this will affect oil pressure.

all that checks out.
any suggestion on the balance shaft for/aft play ?

 

What oil have you been running? If i remember right polaris was specifying 0w-? because they had trouble getting oil to the top end on cold starts. I know the 800 i had and even the 900 prostar both ticked for a few seconds on startup.

 

heli coil installed

 

With the factory plunger, spring, washer and bolt I can reach in with an Allen wrench and there is no spring pressure on the plunger, in fact the plunger will move up about a quarter of an inch before it makes contact with the spring.

 

I made an adjustable oil pressure doo-ma-hickey from a longer bolt. now there is some pressure on the spring pushing down on the plunger. And fully adjustable.

 

I cut the head off a longer bolt and cut a slot in the top. Turned the tip on my lathe to fit the spring. May need a nylock nut for leaks.