On the east coast a 35" tire on a 4 seat turbo s would last 20 mins before you need to get out the extended warranty papers! West coast desert with a DS you may get away with it but definitely not around the areas I ride. If you actually use your car in the areas I ride you would get very good at changing belts, axles and driveshafts. Half the guys I ride with can't get axles, driveshafts, output shafts or belts to live much longer than a weekend on 30s let alone 35s
So I know my end setup for my 35s was pretty extensive. I was hesitant to try 35s but it was something I wanted to try. I tried to roll as stock as possible at first. All I ran at first was rhino 2.0 axles all around with 35" roxxzillas. Well I found the weakest links very fast. Belt temps had become a issue in low and high with belt temps pushing past 200 very easily. First ride out I twisted the front driveshaft and broke a front u joint. So I had the driveshaft re tubed with .120 wall Dom and put better u joints in. Next time out I broke a front outer cv on my rhino 2.0 on the first day. Second day I now broke the front yoke for the u joints. In the process it destroyed the pinion bearing in the front diff. So then I decided that I needed to re think the 35s and if I was going to keep them extensive changes needed to be made. Here is the setup I have now that's been holding strong about 600 miles now. Kb3 drive shaft, kb3 carrier, 2020 turbo s upgraded front diff, fresh rhino 2.0s, RCV 300m trans output shaft, 33% reduction in low, 12% in high and reverse, cryo heat jap trans bearings, cryo heat snap ring delete, cryo heat hd retainer, full clutch kit with helix from AA, gboost belt. So far so good. The 33% low helps a ton in the slow stuff the belt temps are manageable but still a bit high in my opinion @ 160-200. I'm running a set of 32s this weekend so I'm very curious how my gearing feels.
Useable low gear, I like that wording.If you do a bunch of crawling on 35s the lower the better. I found the 33% in low brought me down to about what a stock xp turbo felt like in low on a stock 29" bighorn. For me that was about perfect. Then the 12% in high and reverse made it like it would be on say a 30-31" tire. I would think if you did a bunch of crawling I would go lower than a 33% but I feel that if you go lower than 33% low is useless for anything but crawling. Do the places you ride will really dictate if you can have just a dedicated crawl gear. I know for me in west virginia, Tennessee, and kentucky I still need a usable low gear . If you are going into the trans for gear reduction I highly suggest you check out cryo heats website. They have the upgraded bearings and all the hd parts that are cheap to upgrade inside the trans.
And if you are all stock beware of that front drive shaft. Every single person in my group has either twisted the front shaft, broke the u joint at the diff or bent the yokes. Some of these guys are on stock axles and 32s and still broke the drive shaft.
Ok. I will do some looking. I’m new to the forum so I appreciate it!Check out some of the gear reduction threads on this forum. It's been covered many times over with all the part numbers so u can order what u need directly from polaris. I believe if you look in the rs1 page there is a gear reduction master sheet at the top. It's all broken down into the amount of reduction and what part numbers you need for each setup. The 33/12/12 reduction is actually the same gearing that came in the 2016 xp turbo models and I believe in a few of the early xpt4 models.