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Braven Berserker 35" stage 3 AA. One trip out so far and took some abuse. This is my opinion but 35s are a great improvement for my kind of riding in the Mountains of Montana!
 

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Just thought I'd chime in here a bit. Very interesting comments by all. I have a 2019 XP 1000 High Lifter and if has stock clutching with 55% Gear reduction in Low. I have 35" BKT's on 18" MSA M12's. The total weight is 69 lbs. I have dont nothing to gearing or clutching and turn them just fine.
 

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Just thought I'd chime in here a bit. Very interesting comments by all. I have a 2019 XP 1000 High Lifter and if has stock clutching with 55% Gear reduction in Low. I have 35" BKT's on 18" MSA M12's. The total weight is 69 lbs. I have dont nothing to gearing or clutching and turn them just fine.
 

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On the east coast a 35" tire on a 4 seat turbo s would last 20 mins before you need to get out the extended warranty papers! West coast desert with a DS you may get away with it but definitely not around the areas I ride. If you actually use your car in the areas I ride you would get very good at changing belts, axles and driveshafts. Half the guys I ride with can't get axles, driveshafts, output shafts or belts to live much longer than a weekend on 30s let alone 35s
 

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These guys must ride the crap out of they’re toys if you can’t last weekend without breaking axles and standard equipment
 

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I am very surprised to hear that someone with a Turbo S is having axle, belt and driveshaft issues, especially because of tire size. I say this because I use mine extensively and occasionally cross the line to abuse often without issue. I have got several rides and miles now on my Beserkers and again it is the best improvement I've made out of a laundry list of modifications on my rig.
 

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So I know my end setup for my 35s was pretty extensive. I was hesitant to try 35s but it was something I wanted to try. I tried to roll as stock as possible at first. All I ran at first was rhino 2.0 axles all around with 35" roxxzillas. Well I found the weakest links very fast. Belt temps had become a issue in low and high with belt temps pushing past 200 very easily. First ride out I twisted the front driveshaft and broke a front u joint. So I had the driveshaft re tubed with .120 wall Dom and put better u joints in. Next time out I broke a front outer cv on my rhino 2.0 on the first day. Second day I now broke the front yoke for the u joints. In the process it destroyed the pinion bearing in the front diff. So then I decided that I needed to re think the 35s and if I was going to keep them extensive changes needed to be made. Here is the setup I have now that's been holding strong about 600 miles now. Kb3 drive shaft, kb3 carrier, 2020 turbo s upgraded front diff, fresh rhino 2.0s, RCV 300m trans output shaft, 33% reduction in low, 12% in high and reverse, cryo heat jap trans bearings, cryo heat snap ring delete, cryo heat hd retainer, full clutch kit with helix from AA, gboost belt. So far so good. The 33% low helps a ton in the slow stuff the belt temps are manageable but still a bit high in my opinion @ 160-200. I'm running a set of 32s this weekend so I'm very curious how my gearing feels.
 

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So I know my end setup for my 35s was pretty extensive. I was hesitant to try 35s but it was something I wanted to try. I tried to roll as stock as possible at first. All I ran at first was rhino 2.0 axles all around with 35" roxxzillas. Well I found the weakest links very fast. Belt temps had become a issue in low and high with belt temps pushing past 200 very easily. First ride out I twisted the front driveshaft and broke a front u joint. So I had the driveshaft re tubed with .120 wall Dom and put better u joints in. Next time out I broke a front outer cv on my rhino 2.0 on the first day. Second day I now broke the front yoke for the u joints. In the process it destroyed the pinion bearing in the front diff. So then I decided that I needed to re think the 35s and if I was going to keep them extensive changes needed to be made. Here is the setup I have now that's been holding strong about 600 miles now. Kb3 drive shaft, kb3 carrier, 2020 turbo s upgraded front diff, fresh rhino 2.0s, RCV 300m trans output shaft, 33% reduction in low, 12% in high and reverse, cryo heat jap trans bearings, cryo heat snap ring delete, cryo heat hd retainer, full clutch kit with helix from AA, gboost belt. So far so good. The 33% low helps a ton in the slow stuff the belt temps are manageable but still a bit high in my opinion @ 160-200. I'm running a set of 32s this weekend so I'm very curious how my gearing feels.

This is helpful, thanks man!
I am running an all stock (motor and drivetrain wise) 2019 Turbo S 4 Dynamix and am really wanting 35s. From your experience with the 33% reduction for low, would you recommend going a higher reduction for crawling?
 

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If you do a bunch of crawling on 35s the lower the better. I found the 33% in low brought me down to about what a stock xp turbo felt like in low on a stock 29" bighorn. For me that was about perfect. Then the 12% in high and reverse made it like it would be on say a 30-31" tire. I would think if you did a bunch of crawling I would go lower than a 33% but I feel that if you go lower than 33% low is useless for anything but crawling. Do the places you ride will really dictate if you can have just a dedicated crawl gear. I know for me in west virginia, Tennessee, and kentucky I still need a usable low gear . If you are going into the trans for gear reduction I highly suggest you check out cryo heats website. They have the upgraded bearings and all the hd parts that are cheap to upgrade inside the trans.

And if you are all stock beware of that front drive shaft. Every single person in my group has either twisted the front shaft, broke the u joint at the diff or bent the yokes. Some of these guys are on stock axles and 32s and still broke the drive shaft.
 

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If you do a bunch of crawling on 35s the lower the better. I found the 33% in low brought me down to about what a stock xp turbo felt like in low on a stock 29" bighorn. For me that was about perfect. Then the 12% in high and reverse made it like it would be on say a 30-31" tire. I would think if you did a bunch of crawling I would go lower than a 33% but I feel that if you go lower than 33% low is useless for anything but crawling. Do the places you ride will really dictate if you can have just a dedicated crawl gear. I know for me in west virginia, Tennessee, and kentucky I still need a usable low gear . If you are going into the trans for gear reduction I highly suggest you check out cryo heats website. They have the upgraded bearings and all the hd parts that are cheap to upgrade inside the trans.

And if you are all stock beware of that front drive shaft. Every single person in my group has either twisted the front shaft, broke the u joint at the diff or bent the yokes. Some of these guys are on stock axles and 32s and still broke the drive shaft.
Useable low gear, I like that wording.
We crawl every time we take a trip, but I still ride around the area at home a few times a week so I definitely want me low gear to still be useful. I think 33% sounds about right for me.

Would you by any chance be able to drop the part numbers or direct link to the gears you bought? I imagine there are a lot of people like me that want to do this reduction, but aren’t good at looking for parts. I’m one of those people!
 

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Check out some of the gear reduction threads on this forum. It's been covered many times over with all the part numbers so u can order what u need directly from polaris. I believe if you look in the rs1 page there is a gear reduction master sheet at the top. It's all broken down into the amount of reduction and what part numbers you need for each setup. The 33/12/12 reduction is actually the same gearing that came in the 2016 xp turbo models and I believe in a few of the early xpt4 models.
 

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Check out some of the gear reduction threads on this forum. It's been covered many times over with all the part numbers so u can order what u need directly from polaris. I believe if you look in the rs1 page there is a gear reduction master sheet at the top. It's all broken down into the amount of reduction and what part numbers you need for each setup. The 33/12/12 reduction is actually the same gearing that came in the 2016 xp turbo models and I believe in a few of the early xpt4 models.
Ok. I will do some looking. I’m new to the forum so I appreciate it!
 

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Welcome to the forum! Lots of very knowledgeable people on this forum and lots of good info you probably won't find anywhere else. Good luck on your 35" tire adventure. It's definitely worth the money you have to invest especially if u are in the rocks a bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I have over 1k miles on the Fuel Gripper 35" and no issues. going to moab with them next week. They run 46 lbs compared to the Rockzillas that weight 54 lbs each. I am just running a AA clutch kit. I just bought a set of Rockzillas for winter fun as we play in 1-3ft of snow here. will let everyone know how it goes.
 

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Just got back from moab with 35's and the rs1 spanked every trail easly we tried. Pritchett canyon was easy no winching involved.
 
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