Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have reduced the gears to run 32" tires. I have added the 1.5" a arms front and rear that claim you can run up to a 32" tire. Using a measuring tape, it appears to have the room for a 32" tire. (I have a lift kit if needed, but only if needed)
Now the question is what tire and wheel combo for the east coast (like Windrock area)?
I'm trying to balance weight of the tires as well as the wheels.
I see tires like the ITP Blackwater that comes in around 37lbs or something like the Superatv Warrior comes in at 49lbs.

Now considering that I only have at best 50 ponies (horsepower) to use. I am thinking I am better to go with a lighter tire even though it may not the better tire.

I see wheels like Tusk brand beadlocks or the Method 409-411 that are not beadlock, but slightly less weight. So I am juggling should I go with better tire that weights much more with slightly lighter wheel? Or get much lighter tire that has slightly heaver wheel?

So what is your opinion considering this is a lower horsepower machine?
thanks!
 

·
Registered
'18 XPT
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
well it seems too late for "none of the above", so my remaining suggestions:

If you can, minimize weight. But this comes at a trade-off. I know guys that did that to gain power (rolling weight reduces RWHP like crazy) only to bend rims constantly. Another went heavy rims and lighter tires, only to take thorns though them too often. Still the consequences of weight are a ripple. Next comes a clutch kit, then drive-train wear (steering racks, etc) and of course the power problem.

Mind you the reduced gearing won't give you more HP on the dyno, but it will feel like it, as the torque was increased as a result. You just traded off top speed for better acceleration.

I would look for the lighest kevlar belted tire of the footprint you like, and I'd have to ask myself how hard I was going to be hiting things before I know how tough a rim I needed.

As to rims, you need to consider offset and how it affects scrub, You also need to consider tire contour, for as you change rim width you affect the tire roundness profile.

Back on offset, I suggest you identify your present offset and not change from that by more than 3/4" or so.

Example:

If you're on a 3/3 rim we know it's 6 wide, perfectly centered (zero offset) and relatively rounded if taking a 9" wide tire.

Are you going to a wider tire? What do you want to happen to the profile? Lets say you want a 10" wide tire that's a little flatter, but not completely flat, and you still want to tire bulge to protect from rim damage: so 10" rim, and you'll be looking for 5-5, or maybe 5.75/4.25

Beadlock? Why, you racing or bashing rocks that hard? Never used 'em, don't see a need, wouldn't spend money on or weight on it.

luck to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well it seems too late for "none of the above", so my remaining suggestions:

If you can, minimize weight. But this comes at a trade-off. I know guys that did that to gain power (rolling weight reduces RWHP like crazy) only to bend rims constantly. Another went heavy rims and lighter tires, only to take thorns though them too often. Still the consequences of weight are a ripple. Next comes a clutch kit, then drive-train wear (steering racks, etc) and of course the power problem.

Mind you the reduced gearing won't give you more HP on the dyno, but it will feel like it, as the torque was increased as a result. You just traded off top speed for better acceleration.

I would look for the lighest kevlar belted tire of the footprint you like, and I'd have to ask myself how hard I was going to be hiting things before I know how tough a rim I needed.

As to rims, you need to consider offset and how it affects scrub, You also need to consider tire contour, for as you change rim width you affect the tire roundness profile.

Back on offset, I suggest you identify your present offset and not change from that by more than 3/4" or so.

Example:

If you're on a 3/3 rim we know it's 6 wide, perfectly centered (zero offset) and relatively rounded if taking a 9" wide tire.

Are you going to a wider tire? What do you want to happen to the profile? Lets say you want a 10" wide tire that's a little flatter, but not completely flat, and you still want to tire bulge to protect from rim damage: so 10" rim, and you'll be looking for 5-5, or maybe 5.75/4.25

Beadlock? Why, you racing or bashing rocks that hard? Never used 'em, don't see a need, wouldn't spend money on or weight on it.

luck to you.
Well you pretty much confirmed my concern about weight verses power loss and weight verses durability of the tire. The warrior tires sound like they are really tough tires, but that is why they weigh so much.
As far as offset, I planned on sticking close to factory 5+2 or maybe go 4+3 to push them out just 1".
The reason why people I know run beadlocks is to air down the tire for more and not pop the tire off the bead.
thank you for the reply
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,708 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Where did you get the gears? I'm running 30" Blackwaters and have been considering 32's.
I bought them from Turner. I think the only options are Turner gears or portals for the 800 model.

What is your opinion of the Blackwaters please?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
I bought them from Turner. I think the only options are Turner gears or portals for the 800 model.

What is your opinion of the Blackwaters please?
I've had really good luck with them. They work great with the low hp of the 800. Don't have to spin them to clean them out like a tighter spaced tread. Not as good in rocks as a roctane, but I've not had any problems either. And mine are wearing really well for such an agressive tire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rla800SRZR

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
I had totally forgot that Turner offered gears for the 800. Let me know how they work out with 32's please, I may go that route next.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I've had really good luck with them. They work great with the low hp of the 800. Don't have to spin them to clean them out like a tighter spaced tread. Not as good in rocks as a roctane, but I've not had any problems either. And mine are wearing really well for such an agressive tire.
That is why I was considering the Blackwater tire because it was sorta made for lower HP machines. Now if I had another 50 or so ponies, I would not question buying a heavier tire.
thank you for the insight

I had totally forgot that Turner offered gears for the 800. Let me know how they work out with 32's please, I may go that route next.
Certainly, I'm going to carefully test drive the machine this weekend on the stock 26" tires. I must have lost some of the bolts to the clutch cover, so I got some replacements to install now. I'm going to put the cover and seats back in tomorrow. I can't wait to feel the difference in the gears.
Years ago I had a Jeep I put 32" tires on, and I noticed the power loss immediately. After lowering the gears, it came right back. So I am expecting the same from this 800. I will keep you posted though!
thanks
nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
Yep, I had a Toyota on 37" Boggers 5.29 gears made all the difference. Also helped that I installed a 10lb heavier flywheel! It was a torque monster. Never have to touch the gas to take off! Lol!
 
  • Like
Reactions: nick7269

·
Registered
2009 rzr 800 converted to S width , WE shocks , 3 inch lift
Joined
·
390 Posts
Offroad Atlas said this .
Every pound you add to your tire is torque that you lose. Every inch that you increase your tire size costs you torque, regardless of weight change. (It’s a complicated gear-ratio-type thing.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Offroad Atlas said this .
Every pound you add to your tire is torque that you lose. Every inch that you increase your tire size costs you torque, regardless of weight change. (It’s a complicated gear-ratio-type thing.)
Exactly what I am concerned about. Hopefully the gears I installed will offset the weight I'm adding enough to keep up with my fella riders easier and not tear things up. I'm more worried about the front and rear diff now than anything else.
Here is a sneak peak of the upgrades.

You can clearly see a difference in going from a 26" to a 32" tire. The weight is approx double though. Ground clearance is a large difference. Got the gangsta lean going for the photo op! haha

671148
 

·
Registered
2011 Rzr 800S
Joined
·
98 Posts
Exactly what I am concerned about. Hopefully the gears I installed will offset the weight I'm adding enough to keep up with my fella riders easier and not tear things up. I'm more worried about the front and rear diff now than anything else.
Any follow up on your progress?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Any follow up on your progress?
Unfortunately, my company is in a bind right now. I have been working working overtime, jumping shifts, and trying to be a company man. The good news is, I'm back on day shift now, and motivated to make some more progress soon. (we have 25+ full time job openings, but people don't want to work)

I have taken some test drives. So far conclusion is
-superatv forward a arms front and rear do appear allow enough clearance to run 32" tires without additional lift kits as advertise
-adding 32" tires from 26" tires is a huge ground clearance change (obviously)
-for some strange reason, my rear driver side spring is too close to the axle. I need to adjust the A arm to allow more clearance between the two before going offroad
-top speed runs have been up to 45ish mph. It starts to wonder back and forth on the road.
- I need to adjust my front end toe, little off, then I am betting it can still hit 55 mph
-I think I need to attach my rear anti-sway bar (new rear end A arm kit includes nice extended anti-sway bar links)
-I guess I overfilled the transfer case fluid and it is coming out the vent line

I have new
-JEI offroad tree kickers
-tusk 1/2" skid plates
-switches, relays, lighting and wiring
-new mud guards from truck mud flaps that don't break when rubbing rocks or trees (grr)
-shock rebuild seals, oil, and nitrogen bottle

I'm not scared, I just need the time off from work to get it done! haha
672308


672312
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
That looks mean! Interested to know how those Roctane XR's do. I really wish ITP made 32'' Blackwaters for 14'' wheels. I don't want to go to 15's. Just a heads up, I get some rubbing on my front flares at full stuff with my 30's even with 1.5'' forward arms. And I made mud guards from 1/8" conveyor belt. Nice and flexible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
I've also been thinking about running shock straps, the heavier tires really make the shocks clang at full droop, even after revalving.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top