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If I decide to get some 30 inch tires for my xpk do I need to do anything to the clutch or anything else? I want to get some pro armor crawlers but I can't seem to find any 29s in them so I will get 30. I had them on my 900 and I like them alot. When I did it to the 900 I went from 27 to 28 and it never hurt so I assume 29 to 30 wont either. Any input?
 

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From my read 30’s is still fine. Stock tires measure about 28”. Which I read that the other night, so I went out and measured my new stock tire. It was 28” high.
 

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Seems like 32's are the new 30. No rubbing just put them on.
DogRunner2 helped me decide and also run 32's. Both of us have Tusk Terrabite 32x10x14.
World of difference in the rocks.
Thanks DogRunner2.
 

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Ran 30s from day one on my stock 1000 no issues. Just bumped up to 32s so we'll see how they compare.
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
I agree with this statement.
Additionally;
A simple ( most overlooked item) helix change, will assist with the back shift
and up shift when compared to the lazy stock helix... Larger tires than stock does make the stock more sluggish........
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
Any recommendations on a stock velocity that will mainly be trails and rock climbing ? I’ll have some sand and normal full throttle pulls when goofing around too.
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
I agree totally. The clutch on these things suck even when bone stock.
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
When you say clutching do you mean something like the duraclutch from hunterworks or a more tailored clutch to each specific rider and what they are doing?
 

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@Hunterworks kit can tailor it per your riding style, terrain, elevation, weight, tires, etc. Some of the stock components are junk like the pucks in the secondary will start to tear it up. Some people have the belt hit the cover. A bunch of things to consider.
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
When you say clutching do you mean something like the duraclutch from hunterworks or a more tailored clutch to each specific rider and what they are doing?
Well the Duraclutch is certainly a great option but you could also do something like the Dalton for less money that can be custom tailored to your needs..........
 

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@Hunterworks kit can tailor it per your riding style, terrain, elevation, weight, tires, etc. Some of the stock components are junk like the pucks in the secondary will tear it. Some people have the belt hit the cover. A bunch of things to consider.
well already changed to the rollers so that's not a problem only 40 miles and the stock belt already hit the cover. very minimal hit but was told the clutch cover was warped because the belt hit at the 6 o'clock position under the secondary
 

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You can run 30s or 32s without clutching with no problems.
I would highly recommend doing clutching to all stock machines. The factory sets them up for a broad spectrum that leans heavily on the safe side. If you clutch for your riding style, elevation and tire size, you'll see an incredible increase in response. IMO.
I agree with this statement.
Additionally;
A simple ( most overlooked item) helix change, will assist with the back shift
and up shift when compared to the lazy stock helix... Larger tires than stock does make the stock more sluggish........
Yes, good point. We changed ours with with the clutch kid. It's a little spendy but I feel it's well worth it.
 
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