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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Very hard to move shifter on my 2017 XPT.

Tried reading quite a few threads here but not sure where to start. Last time I had clutch cover off, I seem to remember the belt spinning while at idle. Is this my issue...somewhere here in the clutches?
btw, I'm running 15x32 tires/wheels. Previous owner (2 years and 1500 miles ago) said clutch work "was done"...whatever that means.

Thanks for any thoughts or ideas.
 

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21 Turbo S, 18 XPT Dynamix, 18 XP 1K
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Pull the cover and look it over. Take some pictures and post them. Before you take the belt off you can check alignment by taking a picture of where it rides on the primary like this one. Lots of things to check but I'm sure you will find the issue.
667962
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
still pursuing the clutch issue. almost impossible to shift now. couldn't really tell if clutches are aligned properly or not. wasn't really sure what I was looking for. I still think it is the secondary spinning that is the problem. Tired of taking machine into different shops (other repairs) and getting poor quality work performed for too much $.

I tried attaching a video but it appears that I can only attach photos(?) the secondary is spinning at pretty much the same rate as primary (during idle) which is approx 1200-1250 rpms.
 

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21 Turbo S, 18 XPT Dynamix, 18 XP 1K
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If you take a picture like the one I posted earlier you can see if the clutch is not aligned. If the belt is touching either side of the primary sheave it will be hard to shift and the secondary will be spinning at idle. If there's nothing broken in either clutch then either the primary is on the PTO shaft too far (over torqued or grease on the shaft) or not seated all the way due to not enough torque. The secondary can have a broken snap ring or missing a washer making it sit out or in too far on the transmission input shaft. Broken rollers, helix, etc can also be a problem.
 

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If the primary bearing is moving easily and not binding or froze up.

Get a snap ring delete kit from Aftermarket Assassins.
Install a new belt and set up the alignment with their washers and shims.

This procedure worked for my 17 XPT.
That was progressively getting harder to shift.



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Looks like you have some options now.
Hope you can get it working without dealing with a service dept.

Good luck.



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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Problem appears to be the primary clutch was all gunked up around the 2 way bearing (where the belt rides when idling) and the fixed bearing that the outer/moveable sheave slides back and forth on.
We cleaned the 2 way bearing and cleaned the inside collar of the outer sheave (that slides across the fixed bearing). After this, the shifter was easy to move since the belt was now spinning freely on the 2-way bearing and the secondary clutch was no longer turning.

However, we didn't have the tool to remove the sheaves (large castle nut) completely so we were not able to clean off the outer surface of the fixed bearing. I'm sure this is also gunked up and we need to clean as we can still feel a slight resistance/grabbing as the outer sheave moves in/out.

After a days riding, the clutch and shifter was again having issues. Popped off the clutch cover and again the secondary clutch was spinning (albeit slower than before). Cleaned out clutches again with compressed air (didnt remove clutches) and seemed to be working again.

Bottom line: problem appears to be in primary clutch area. Either need to get all of the tools to be able disassemble completely and also need to remove and clean clutches more frequently. I can understand now why some folks have told me they remove and clean both clutches after every ride.

Anyone have any thoughts or comments about what I've experienced or if they feel this is the wrong path??
.....please feel free to comment.
My clutch experience has been very aggravating so I am more than happy to offer my thoughts and experiences, so far.
 

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If cleaning it helped keep cleaning it. Since you don’t have the tool to take it apart you may have to keep it clean till it moves the gunk out of the places you can’t get to. Do you see any sign of oil seeping from the main engine oil seal behind the primary? Maybe that catching dust is the gunk you have?
 

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Hunterworks has the tools you need to disassemble the primary, they are high quality and he ships fast. I’ve had best luck using an impact on the spider nut. You will need a torque wrench that will do 300 ft lbs for reassembly.

I would also borrow or buy an alignment tool, it is possible to have the alignment off on an XPT.
 

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Brake cleaner is your friend for cleaning it!
 
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