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Discussion Starter #1
The steering wheel on my RZR has always been off by 20-30 degrees clockwise. Driving straight, the top is at about 1:00.

Is the connection a splined shaft that can be moved in small increments, or is it keyed so that any adjustment needs to be done with wheel alignment? I can't tell from the diagram.

Thanks
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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The steering wheel on my RZR has always been off by 20-30 degrees clockwise. Driving straight, the top is at about 1:00.

Is the connection a splined shaft that can be moved in small increments, or is it keyed so that any adjustment needs to be done with wheel alignment? I can't tell from the diagram.

Thanks
It is splined, can be a pain to pull off, there's a couple steering wheel pullers out that make it a lot easier.

Make sure to verify the rack and tie rods are centered, check to see if the middle point between full left and full right actually comes out to the same 1:00 position is drives straight at.
 

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Premium Member
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If the car tracks straight on flat and level, just pull the wheel and move it to center...I did it that way. My wheel popped off with an Auto Zone puller pretty easy...I changed the wheel over to an Assault as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
^^^^^^^

There seems to be some risk of damaging the EPS unless the entire steering shaft is disconnected and pulled. Were you able to do it with everything in place?
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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^^^^^^^

There seems to be some risk of damaging the EPS unless the entire steering shaft is disconnected and pulled. Were you able to do it with everything in place?
You can with the correct puller. The EPS damage is possible if you use the hammer method ( which is actual what the service manual says ). The correct puller does not put any pressure on the EPS unit at all tho
 

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care should be taken when doing this but I held the wheel and ran my electric impact gun to remove the nut...no injury to the eps. the Puller applies pressure between the wheel and the shaft and not the eps unit. It was quick and painless.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
^^^
pretty sure It’s always been off this same amount and Ive never hit anything hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I got it off and centered yesterday, but it wasn't easy. The nut holding the wheel to the shaft was incredibly tight. I braced the crossbar of the steering wheel down to the floor with a 2x6 and tried it with a ratchet. Nope. Breaker bar moved it a bit, but then it seized up again. I cautiously backed it off with an impact wrench with the wheel still braced.

When I finally got it off, I noticed 2 things. First, it looked like red Loctite had been applied to the threads. What the heck? It's not in a spot where you can apply heat to get it off. Second, the threads in the nut were totally flattened off at the peaks. I'm nearly certain that someone (factory?) forced a 5/8-11 nut onto the M16-2.0 shaft. The two are close enough that the first two threads will start before binding. Fortunately, the shaft is much harder and the nut took the damage.

With the wheel removed, I heated the shaft to clean off the Loctite. I centered the wheel and put on a new M16-2.0 Nylock nut. I tightened it to book specs of 65 ft lbs even though that seems like ridiculous overkill. You'd feel the in-out movement in the wheel long before it backed all the way out and fell off in your hands.

Steering seems to function normally and no EPS light on the dash. I REALLY didn't want to use the impact, but didn't have much choice at that point without removing the whole steering shaft from the machine.

Lots of sweat and aggravation for what should have been a simple fix. Better yet, center the dang wheel at the factory and I wouldn't be messing with it at all.
 

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Vandal
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Thats funny When I removed my wheel to recenter it the nut came off with a breaker bar and the wheel pulled gently off the shaft Reversed process using anti sieze on the shaft and away I went. Total time maybe 5 minutes and no swearing at all
 
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