What all did you have done on the recall? I have a big ride coming up and my machine is perfect now so I am worried about them even messing with it except for maybe the oil line.

 

There has been some talk on here about what all they did on the recall reflash. I myself really don't know. But there are a few threads talking about it. I was with frank and saw his acting up first hand. I have no clue what's going on with his. Hopefully the dealer can plug it in and get it fixed up.

 

I'd appreciate some help guys....

 

Hey Frank
My shop manual is at my shop so I can't check the codes today.
Did you check your fuses
Was any mud on the radiator or fan
were you losing any coolant
Hope it's something simple
I'm originally from Howell Mi, really miss Mich but have had arthritis since 5th grade.

 

Robert, I appreciate the help. No they were mostly sandy trails and were we're basically just cruising since there was over a 150 machines. Temps were in the 50's and it was a nice cool day. All of a sudden the cab turned into a sweat box and I was losing power and the check engine light went on. Nothing we could do but to milk it back to the trucks.

 

replace the belt. thats what i had to do with the same problem.

 

Just spend the money and get your cars reflashed by a reputable company. IE: Alba or another forum vendor. Having to constantly replace belts after the reflash is not right. It should be obvious that if the problem and belt replacement did not occur prior to the reflash then it's the reflash. One of the service guy's at my dealer said it's bad!!! Ton's of complaints. Polaris should fix these but who knows how long that will take. May be they should hire a Japanese engineer to fix the problem.:rofl3:

 

Replace the belt ?! WTF? This is a motor /ecu problem, how can clutching have anything to do with it ?

 

Because after the reflash, an hour glassed (burned) belt will get recognized by the crank position sensor in the form of rpm variations and will kick off a cylinder misfire code, then put it into a limp mode until the key is cycled. Other things will cause cylinder misfires with the same results, but that's why a belt change is an option. Best thing is to pull the belt, look for any spots that are burned. If you don't see any, then it wasn't the belt. If you do, then you should change the belt cause eventually it will break and leave you stranded if you don't have a spare, which is the intent of the change in the reflash. It goes into limp if it is the belt so you don't break the belt and get stranded.

 

Maybe the belt fried and the ecu was trying to compensate for it? Not sure. I was following him and every once in a while I could smell gas. So I'm guessing it wasn't burning all the fuel. Also the plugs looked good.

 

Sub

 

Carry a spare belt and fix the problem. A reflash. Any driver that does not carry a spare belt maybe should walk a few miles as a lesson. These cars have been around for years without this problem. Its directly related to the recall reflash. Some owners have had problems with belts being replaced to stop limp mode with as little as 100 miles on them.At that rate you better carry 6 or 7 belts in Baja. Dang I only carry 2. Fix the ecu or wait for Polaris either way the reflash sucks.:rm_thumbdown:

 

Not sure what to think of this, but my BMP tuner is really nice.

 

Thats what im talking aboutk:

 

Well I had 2 extra belts on me but who would have known it's belt related? I did have a funny vibration at 4500 rpm that wouldn't go away after the dealer replaced a brand new primary, and they upgraded spider with a new belt. The vibration was between 4500-5,000 rpm and then would go away above 5,000rpm. So I told the dealer about this annoying issue and they thought maybe the new spider was the issue but we were already on the trails.

 

I know it seems off but I had the same issue and I replaced it with a carbon fiber belt and no more issues. Like the other guy said, it's the crank sensor picks it up. But if it continues and I have to change belts all the time I will have a out side gender reflash it.

 

Does the upgraded spider from Polaris need to be balanced to the primary at all?

 

Exactly why I did not allow my dealer to reflash when I took it in for recals. They argued with me but I won..No reflash

 

I thought about that too but I wanted the lower fan temps. It really ran strong after the Reflash , actually I think it ran better and with more power after the Reflash.

I'm starting to see that this isn't a Reflash issue, it was a clutch issue with the new spider that set off sensors and threw out limp mode codes. I'll keep you guys posted as I get more info from the dealer.

 

SPN 2629, Component is "Engine Turbo Compressor Outlet temperature"
Condition, Voltage above normal (DTC, P1235) or Voltage below normal (DTC, P1236)

Could not find SPN 1167 but I found SPN 1127 which is "Boost Pressure Sensor"
Condition, Voltage above normal (DTC, P0238) or Voltage below normal (DTC, P0237)

Frank, if you want to check those codes again, start your RZR, let it warm up, if the check engine light comes on but you have no codes keep pushing the mode button until "CK ENG" appears then hold button down to retrieve the codes, should be a number in the upper left hand side, another number on the right side in the middle and one number below that.
What's up with that crazy weather!

 

Frank, if you have 2 or more codes in your system you will have to hit the mode button more than once to get all the codes, the upper left number will show 1 for the first code, then 2 for second and will show up to 9.
The number that shows in the middle to the right is your SPN code, "Suspect Parameter Number" and the number below that is your FMI code, "Failure Mode Indicator"
The numbers you posted I think are your SPN's

 

Robert, the codes were #1127 with a big 0 in the left corner and another 0 under the 1127. The second code # 2629 had a big 1 in left corner and a small 3 under it.

 

OK, 1127 is Boost pressure sensor, the 0 under 1127 means "Condition, valid but above normal" and the "Diagnostic trouble code" for 1127 w/0 is DTC 0234.
The manual doesn't tell me what that means but on a OBD II code reader it means overboost.

2629 is Engine turbo compressor outlet temperature, the 3 under 2629 means "Condition, Voltage above normal" and the DTC is P1235 on a OBD II is fuel pump out of range.
hope it's something simple to fix, "valid but above normal" is weird

 

I'm guessing you didn't get any answers from your dealer today frank?

 

No nothing yet...

 

Robert, thank you for you leg work. I checked in today at the dealer and they are waiting for a call back from Polaris. Right now the question is how can Polaris send out upgraded Spiders without being balanced first and timed with the primary which caused all sorts of vibrations around 4500rpm.

 

My dealer did the recall on my XPT but said they did NOT do a reflash on the ECU. Air intakes, clutch, fan and oil fitting.

Sam

 

So just an update boys and girls: Dealer said the spring clip in the secondary was broken causing all the vibrations. They are going to try and Reflash it and see if all the codes clear up. Stay tuned.

 

Didn't they just install the helix a couple of weeks ago ?

 

So I just got my RZR back today and I ran about 30 miles on dirt roads. She runs like new again. I'm sure you all would like to know what the problem was and the fix. The problem was the stock plastic blow off valve that was throwing the over/under boost code #1127 had failed. We replaced it with an EVO BOV and all the codes went away.

They replaced the spring clip in the secondary and she runs like new. Who would have thought the stock BOV was causing all these problems? Well I have a ride in Windrock tomorrow for the next few days. I'll keep everyone posted on how it runs...