Start at the fuel pump, hook up a pressure gauge, you should have (IIRC) 48 lbs of fuel pressure. This sounds to me like a fueling issue..

 

Bogging is almost always an air/fuel issue, probably the pump!

What model you have, if a turbo, check the intercooler for leaks. This could also be bad fuel, sea foam can fix that, or just drain and refill, and stop going to that gas station. Bad injectors, bad plugs, or a leak in the intake would be last on my list.

Edit: LOL, the model is in the subject, not a turbo, you can ignore the intercooler, but I'm going to leave it in case someone is searching (novel concept) for similar issue in the future.

 

Me thinks your fingers were moving faster than your brain LOL

 

Joe said this is a family friendly forum... no comment

 

I started at the muffler today, rather than the fuel pump. After washing it, I noticed that the spark arestor screen looked like it was getting clogged with mud. I could not get the bolt loosened to remove the screen. Looks rusted or heat treated on, LOL. I put on some PB blaster and let it soak with no luck. I even used a impact wrench. I decided to blow it out with my compressor after taking a wire brush to it, reaching what I could. I used some electrical cleaner in a spray can to loosen the dirt that would not come lose with my brush. I believe I got it all, while viewing it with my flashlight. I think that helped, but would have to test drive it for couple of hours. Bike has plenty of power at the moment. I will try to hook up a gauge to measure the pressure, but at the moment the way it sounds the pressure has to be good. It would not hurt to remove the fuel pump and make sure the filter is not clogged. I will try to do that tomorrow and remove the gas and look what kind of dirt may be in the tank. I have some seafoam which I can add to new gas with the hope of cleaning fuel injectors. The air filter is clean. I was told that a weak fuel pump will stop pumping when it starts to overheat. I also was told that a bad ignition coil can start to overheat and cause a weak spark. I dont know at this time how I would test the ignition coil to see if it is bad. Once I am done looking inside the fuel tank, I will update this thread for more suggestions. Thanks for you input. Without it bogging down at the moment, its just process of elimination. New fuel pump and ignition coil are not that expensive.

I just wondered, would a dirty spark arrestor screen cause a intermittent engine bogging issue. I would think that if it was clogged, it would be bogging all the time, rather that just acting up after riding it for a hour on the trails

 

I doubt the spark arrestor is your problem. My bet is on the fuel pump. You didn't mention what brand of pump you put in. Also why did you change it to begin with? Fuel pumps have a nasty habit of losing pressure when they get hot, then have good pressure when cool. Also the 2013 pressure should be 45psi +/-2 psi. The 2014 upped the pressure to 58psi, so I would bet a 2014 pump would actually work better in the 2011-2013's but I haven't tested that.

 

Duwl pumps have a nasty habit of losing pressure when they get hot, then have good pressure when cool.

I am pretty sure it is not a Duwl pump, but I will check. Actually, I cant even remember why I replaced it. Perhaps just routine maintenance. I did have a dirty fuel filter, so maybe I bought a kit and decided to replace it in addition to the filter. I still have the old pump which makes me think I saved it for that reason. I also heard that that an ignition coil can create insufficient spark to the plugs after heating up, resulting in engine bogging down. Have you heard of that issue before and if so, is it common or rare with Polaris?

 

Well, there's the inner peace knowing that all components in the tank are quality and new, sort of a preventative maintenance thing.. I absolutely loathe trail breakdowns, I carry a spare pump for when it does decide to take a dump, but I think that once I got it back to the shop, that I'd pull the spare, and buy a new complete assembly, and let the spare pump remain a spare..

But that's just me, I don't want to dedicate what little storage space (on board in the machine)I have to a complete assembly.. It'll run with a bad fuel sending unit, and I can clean the screen, so..

 

I was looking at the method in the manual for checking the pressure. They use a Fuel Pressure Gauge kit ( PU-43506-A ) in which one hose from a T adaptor connected to the gauge leads to a test valve PV-48656. From the test vale a hose branches off to the fuel pump and one to the fuel injector. The other end of the T adaptor leads to a portable gasoline container or the vehicle’s fuel tank. On some YouTube videos I see people just hooking up a pressure gauge directly to the fuel pump. So, is the elaborate setup using the Kit needed?

 

So, is the elaborate setup using the Kit needed?

Nope.. Any solution that you can find to put the pressure gauge inline with the pressurized fuel line from the pump to the rail would work..

 

Honestly I don't know what size it is. Most ppl just hook the fuel pressure gauge to the end of the injector rail. At least that's what I've seen and also how I've tested mine. Unfortunately it involves removing the bed.

 

Hey guys, I was cleaning off my bike to get to the TPS incase I need to adjust/replace it, if my bogging down issue is not my fuel pump. I discovered that the tubing that goes from the crank shaft filter to the valve cover has a 2" slit in it. I wanted to replace that part but I cant seem to find it in the RZR 800 parts diagram. If any of you can find me that part number, please let me know. Thanks

 

https://www.rzrforums.net/threads/rzr-800-slit-in-airbox-hose.166359/

My 2009 800 has a slit in the breather hose that goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner, I don’t think that it’s your bogging cause. The attached thread discusses this hose. Good luck finding the source of your problem.

 

Might check with @RockPeakUTV , he sells OEM Polaris parts, and at a discount and free shipping for forum members. I tagged him here, being the weekend hopefully he's out having fun, but he's really good at answering questions like this.

 

Never heard of a crankshaft filter
Maybe # 14?

https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/pol/54d57f0887a86515a080a4e1/engine-air-intake-system

Does it connect to # 9 on top of valve cover?
https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemp...ne.com/oemparts/a/pol/54d57ff087a86515a080a566/engine-throttle-body-valve-cover

 

I am not certain what part you are talking about. Is it in this diagram @mroman59 ?

 

No, not in the diagram. I think they forgot to put it in. However, I found out that the part no. is 5414315 because it is written on the tubing.

 

I think we established it was the positive crankcase ventilation hose..

I believe it's number 14 in this breakout

 

Yes, that is it #14 , I did not notice it the first time I looked.

 

I sent you a PM with a quote link @mroman59
Thanks!

Seth

 

I sent you a PM with a quote link @mroman59
Thanks!

Seth

Thanks, I will take a look at the website.

 

Just a thought, even if you buy a new one its gonna have the slit in it...

 

It even says so in the part description..