Check battery and make sure you have full charge and everything is snug. My brothers acted weird when his battery took a shit for no real reason new battery and all is good. Seems simple and I hope it is. His indicator lights would light up and blink and then no crank but it appeared that it was fine until we checked charge on battery.

 

forgot to add that I also put a batt charger on it for about and hour and got the same results, but I can still check the battery just to make sure it's good. the lights light up nice and bright, low and high beam and when the lights are on and you hit the starter they don't dim or nothing, stay on nice a bright.
thank you for your thoughts, I too hope it's something simple. it's still under warranty and do plan on taking it in, just wont have time until the weekend and probably wont hear anything till end of next week.
thanks again.

 

Good luck! if you have warranty, let them figure it out... I'm sure your like me easier said than done. Probably something simple

 

If truly the lights don't dim when you turn the key to start with the brake peddle pushed you have the problem isolated somewhat.

It appears to me to be a problem with your solenoid or the wiring to the starter. You should have heard a clicking when turned the ignition to start, you said nothing happened and the fact that the headlights didn't dim means your not putting any new load on the battery. Check the solenoid and the circuitry to the starter. I think you will find your problem in that area. The problem could also be with the ignition switch, but you said you already checked that, but make sure that voltage is getting to your selenoid with the ignition switch at start.

Mike

 

Bad grounds or a bad connection somewhere that's if batter test good

 

thank you Mike and John, I will check out the ground and solenoid tonight.

what about the gear indicator not showing up on the display? it's odd when I turn the key to start it without the brake pressed that it shows up but only for 10 seconds and doesnt change when I change the gear. That's the part that throws me off.

thank you for your help.

 

update; check the battery and it's good, checked all grounds and they are good. take a look at the two pictures.
what is the square item that my finger is on? there are 2 wires going to the solenoid, it has a rod that looks pretty rough, only thing I can read it 20A on it, is this a fuse? or relay?
also, checked voltage on the two wires in the other picture, when switch is on have 12.35vdc on yellow wire, nothing on blue, soon as I touch the brake no voltage... I'm starting to think I have a short somewhere, broken wire.

if you can let me know what the readings are suppose to be on the blue/yellow wires that would be great.
I'm going to take it in the shop saturday so I'll post what they find out.
this problem has me stumpped...

 

I believe that the square item that comes out of the wiring harness is a BREAKER-CIRCUIT,20 AMP,SEALED part#2410881 any one had this go bad? how do you test it?

 

The battery at full charge should be 12.8 volts or very close. Your problem sure sounds like a shorted battery. When you try to start like you would normally would, do you get just one click and then everyting does dead, if that is the case it would indicate bad battery connection or bad ground connection.

 

Checked the square item it is a ckt breaker, and it tested good.

Scuba, when I go to start it normally, in park foot on the break, nothing happens, no click, nothing. If I do not put my foot on the brake I'll hear the fuel pump relay click and the pump turns on if I put my foot on the break you hear the click again and the fuel pump turns off. the two wires that go to the solenoid (blue & yellow) the yellow has 12vdc to it when the key is on or when you turn to the key to start, but if I put my foot on the brake it goes to 0vdc
all power is good, meaning lights and all indicators on the gauge accept the gear indicator work. I agree with you it sounds like a short somewhere.
I have to say the short maybe coming from the gear selector switch... maybe, your thoughts?

thank you for helping and your thoughts!

 

Zero volts still makes me think there is a bad connection to the battery or one of the big cables from the battery to the solenoid so check those connections first by taking them loose, wire brush them and reassemble. Try leaving your foot on the brake when it goes to zero volts and wait to see if power doesn't come back by its self which would indicate a bad connection. Batteries should read 12.8 volts at full charge, even a drop to 12.6 indicates about a 90% charge and 12.3 indicates a 60% charge and I think you stated you had 12.3v in an earlier post so if it won't charge to at least 12.6 to 12.7 I would still be looking at possibly a bad battery.

 

I was having a simliar problem took back to shop there was a dead sell in battery would charge but not start.

 

Try old school screwdriver accross the 2 large posts on the solenoid, if the starter turns over then the battery could be good. I would then look for the start diode being a possible cause. If you can download a shop manual for a RZR. I did and section 10 cover all kinds of elictrical test to find the cause.

 

Thanks to teamhog I was able to download the service manual and look at the wire diagram in it... wish it was more specific but it gave me enough info to determine there is something odd about this problem.

More info on troubleshooting this problem...

the two small wires that go to solenoid only have batt power when switch is turned on, not on "start" when you go to start the voltage drops to 0, like a short or open. Also, I check to see if I keep my foot on the brake and in the start position for a min and no luck on getting any juice. It's odd that there are batt volts there when the key is just in the "on" position. I understood that only when in the start position, so what's stop the solenoid turning over when in the on? weird or I just don't know what I'm doing. haha
charged the battery and is holding 12.8 (that would be awesome if it’s just a battery)
double/triple checked all grounds/wires didn't find anything wrong...

by the electrical drawing this shouldn't matter but when I unplug the brake light harness (3 wires, running lights, brake lights and ground, this is the connection below the trunk) I lose some power, the fuel pump no longer will come on and the gear indicator will not light up when in the start position...

it's in the shop now so I'll post what they find, I just hope that it's something stupid that I missed and not what I think it is and that's a broke/grounded wire in the harness, which means replacing the wire harness and that looks like no easy task and a bitch to prove... hope Polaris is good about the warranty.

 

final note on this problem. It was indeed a wireing problem. after a week in the shop they replaced the ground wire from the ecu to one of the relays in the fuse box, said the wire burned up from getting wet. Caution for all those who are anal about cleaning... I only use a watering hose, no pressure washer, nothing but straight out of the garden hose... I no longer even come close to the ecu or the fuse box...
Polaris told the dealer this is a known problem and running a seperate wire should fix the issue to where it doesn't happen again.

if you have the same indications look for this problem.
thanks to all those who helped out.

 

Mine is doing the same thing. Do you know we're they ran from between the ecu and the relay what connection

Thanks

 

I will take a look for you this weekend.

 

I jumpers the solenoid for the starter and it ran to problem started after like it did befor see how it works today though

 

I realize this thread is super old but I'm having the same issue and at a loss. I'm fairly certain this is my issue as well. Did you ever check which ground wire they had to re-run? That is, if you can remember that far back lol.

 

So take one more step and check the voltage when you turn the key on and when you turn it to start.

I've had one that read good voltage, until you turn to start...then a whopping 4V...

Also, have you tried using a vehicle and jumper cables to see what happens?

Ground may be tight, but is it clean and tight?

Are the positive cables on the solenoid and battery clean and tight?

Just thoughts...

Pirate

 

Hey JfromOK and Pirate... I'm also having the EXACT same symptoms on my 2012 RZR 800 S (not my primary ride, lol). Has anyone been able to identify which wire (ground?) coming from the ECU to the fuse box needs replacement? I've removed the center console and floor pan, replaced the ground connectors to the frame below the driver's seat, and am now hoping I can minimize the diagnostic time the local Polaris dealer can charge me to fix the problem. I love trail riding and have gotten stuck in a mud hole, so I strongly believe my solution should be the same as the OP's.

I sent a PM to scrzrfun a week ago asking if he could identify the wire, or possibly provide me with his dealer's info for details, but unfortunately I haven't yet received a reply. I see SCrzrFun hasn't been on the forum for over a year, so he may not have even received the message...

FYI, I've already confirmed my (~ 1 yr old) Odyssey PC925 battery is good, replaced the starter solenoid, replaced the ignition switch, and had all fuses / relays confirmed as good. I bridged the (original and the new one) solenoid and it cranks, so I'm confident the starter is good. I can also hear the fuel pump pressurize, but only when the key is held in Start position... WITHOUT the brake being applied as well.

Can anyone help? Any veteran members I should consider reaching out to?? I've got the 2011 800 service manual, thx to searching RZRforums.net! Scheduled drop off at the Polaris dealer for Saturday, March 5th so they can diagnose on Tuesday, March 8th. Praying I have this issue resolved in order to take more people to BMR @ Disney OK March 18-20th...

PS. I LOVED the forum ride @ Taylor Park last year! HIGHLY recommend attending if you have an opportunity to go! Thx in advance forum members

 

pirate is good at this stuff

 

I can start my 2012 razor starts easy, but when it warms up it does not like to start, is this the fuel pump ? And how much are they if need replacing ?

 

Pirate here, did the OP or anyone else find a cause for the issue?

 

Per post #16:
Dealer replaced "ground wire from the ecu to one of the relays in the fuse box"

The OP never said which one.

EDIT:

Per schematic these 3 wires are grounds from ECU to relay coil ground:
E219 DG/YE Fuel relay
E204 OG/WH Fan relay
E202 DG/YE EFI relay

The other 2 relays (Chassis & EPS) are grounded thru a splice in harness.

 

OK Thanks, after many hours trying to solve my problem, I finaly locate the problem: I have no current on the Red/Dark Blue at the key switch harness. When switch is on Run position, no current is transfering at the GR/WH wire, then no current at the solenoid harness. Where come from the current of the RD/DB? My brake switch is OK.
Thanks!

 

If you have power to RD/WH wire at key switch then the EFI fuse is good, and I would suspect the EFI relay.

Try swapping relays.

 

1. 
   

2. If you have power to RD/WH wire at key switch then the EFI fuse is good, and I would suspect the EFI relay.
   
   Try swapping relay

If you have power to RD/WH wire at key switch then the EFI fuse is good, and I would suspect the EFI relay.

Try swapping relays.

View attachment 647409

View attachment 647408

EFI relay and EFI fuse work well. But something is strange at the rear light. At usual, the rear lights share the same current wire (RD/YE) than the breaking light, and the OR wire give the ground by the brake switch as result that the breaking light turn on. When I’m testing the current of the OR wire when the key switch is ‘’ON’’, I test 12Vdc, and 12Vdc on the RD/YE wire, and 0Vdc on the BR wire. Then, when I press the brake, I have 0vdc on the OR, 12Vdc on RD/YE and 0Vdc on the BR wire. Why it have current on OR wire, it’s not supposed to be only a ground?