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Discussion Starter #1
Been reading old posts till my eyes are falling out!!

Just purchased a new to me 2012 RZR 800. 3100 miles, hasn't been serviced in two years, limited use in those two years. Seems to run just fine. But what do I know?????? So I'm going to ask some questions I'm sure you guys have heard before so I apologize ahead of time. I have driven an RZR several years ago (rental) and also rented an Ace. So I have the bare minimum of experience. I'm going to service all the gear boxes, change the oil and filter, grease all the fittings, and replace the UMP air filter cartridge to start with.

So, questions:

1. How will/do I know when or if I need a new drive belt? Seems a little grabby on startup but no hesitation or slipping when engaged (I think). Is there a way to decrease the initial jerk? Also, Polaris seems quite proud of there belts. Those available on Amazon seem to be much more reasonable. Opinions??? Looking at a Gates belt for around $40.

2. What are some of the performance figures? How fast should it top out at? Temp reading. Had it out once and temp seemed to ride 190 -200 and fan operated.

3. I have a boat and a couple of small engine things around the house and I put non-ethanol gas in all of them. I'm thinking I'll do that in the RZR also. Only because there will probably be periods of sitting around at times. I use Star-Tron also. Thoughts?

4. I also use Mobil 1 in the above mentioned items. Is that acceptable for use in the RZR? Don't want to start a big oil discussion but want to know if it's okay. My boat owners forum could argue for days on the proper oil for outboards..........

So far I'm really happy with getting the RZR. Have wanted one for quite a while. Had it out once and had a blast. Want to keep it in shape and dependable. Not going to hotrod it or go stump jumping, we're retired and don't like to break things including ourselves. But we've got the beach and the sand dunes to play on.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and recommendations. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.
 

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I had a 2011 800s for a couple years so I have only limited knowledge. I’m sure others will jump in.

1. Mine hard a jerk to start as well and once belt was engages no issues. I’ve read other threads where a new belt will solve this issue and others where it didn’t. At the price of the Gates belt it’s worth a try. However, I would suggest going with Hunterworks. Todd gives amazing instructional videos and has helped countless people solve clutch and belt issues. If the belt doesn’t fix it he can give help. There is also a warranty with the belt as long as no foul play.

2. Not sure about speed. As for temp If memory is correct mine would climb to 207 and the fan kick in and cool it back down.

3. I use non-ethanol gas with stabil in everything but my truck. Unless in a pinch where I’m going to be stranded in a trail. I absolutely believe in that combo.

4. Oil is a discussion here same as your boat. I personally just used the polaris oil and filters.

Enjoy the “new” toy!


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While you're in maintenance mode, just pull the belt/clutch cover and check out the belt for any cracking, shiny spots, and general odd-looking wear. Blow out the clutch with compressed air too.
 

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Changing the fluids is a pain. You need to read about it in the service manual. Multiple drains and fill points. Use only Polaris fluids in front and rear differentials. Get a wide mouth fluid pump to put the fluids back in. For stock air filter configuration, ONLY use Polaris air filter and change like every trip. The air filter location is unfortunate and gets extremely dirty extremely fast. Just consider the price of the filter a consumable like fuel. A foam/oil filter means a new engine soon.
The UMP is awesome. Still change it frequently.

The top speed is 55mph on a good day on a smooth road for a long time. No point in looking for more power as that speed is all the wheel base and suspension can handle. The RT Pro springs and maybe the lift kit add a lot to the ride of an 800.

Sturdy little beasts. Great rock climbers.

Only for sure mod is Harnesses. Get 5 point 2". The fifth strap keeps the lap belt from riding up, adding comfort not taking it away. 2" easier to adjust. Set up one seat distance for you and the other one for your wife. swap seats when change drivers.

I'd put a new belt in it. You probably will not need one for 7 more years. For the few extra dollars put in the high quality Polaris OEM belt. The belt is behind the seats behind the firewall behind the clutch air intake. You don't want to be changing this on the trail. Take your current belt as a spare and take belt changing tools.

I had a 2013 800s LE.
 

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Clutch tuning will help with speed.

If you have too much jerk I would check your Primary clutch. As it spins and gains RPM the fly weights expand pushing the sheaves together until they grab the belt. If your belt is worn, you may have too big a gap between sheaves. Check the flyweights and flyweight bolts. They can wear quickly and become notched. Primary flyweights also determine when the belt engages at what RPM so tuning may also help with jerkiness.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Appreciate the feedback guys. Think I'll try the Gates belt. Has some good reviews. I'll keep the old as a backup if it isn't in bad shape. Looked at videos about belt change and cleaning sheaves with brake cleaner and blowing out clutch. Looks easy enough. Just got my replacement filter for the UMP. Already changed the crankcase oil and filter. Will probably get to the other gear boxes before the next outing.

Reading all (a lot of) the information about the pinion nut issue has me somewhat concerned. Will be looking into that some more.
 

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1. How will/do I know when or if I need a new drive belt? Seems a little grabby on startup but no hesitation or slipping when engaged (I think). Is there a way to decrease the initial jerk? Also, Polaris seems quite proud of there belts. Those available on Amazon seem to be much more reasonable. Opinions??? Looking at a Gates belt for around $40.

If you smell something similar to burnt gear oil that isn't burnt gear oil, it's your belt burning up. If it feels like you're riding a bike with a missing tooth on the sprocket it might be your belt. If it squeals, it might be your belt. Belts are good for about 2 or 3 races for us, a belt a season for recreational riders. We've run polaris and dayco and are trying the continental belt next. OE belt is over priced and the superceded belt is the HD belt which is not the same size as the OE belt was, works but is over priced. Dayco XTX belt did us great for 4 races, didn't fail. But inspected it and decided to replace it. Great durable belt for the money. It was about 80 bucks if I recall. New Continental belt I found is the same OE dimension and they sell for about 40 to 45 bucks. I bought 3 of them off summit racing. Will have to report back after running them. I plan to replace one a race or every other race if they hold up. At 40 bux I can be more frequent with the belt replacement.

2. What are some of the performance figures? How fast should it top out at? Temp reading. Had it out once and temp seemed to ride 190 -200 and fan operated.

One person flat ground i hit like 60 62mph. Two people flat ground 53 55 mph. Clutching is huge. Tire selection is a factor. Look at the spring chart in the service manual, infinite spring/weight combos. Then basically throw that out and go with something that others have used or buy a kit. Our new setup is supposed to be hitting close to 70mph according to someone who ran the same setup. Will find out and adjust accordingly. Depending on your RPM at top speed you can play from there. When WFO, we were only topping out around 5700rpm. Left some on the table, not much but some. 6250 rpm is about the most rpms that are useful. Never checked the temp reading.

3. I have a boat and a couple of small engine things around the house and I put non-ethanol gas in all of them. I'm thinking I'll do that in the RZR also. Only because there will probably be periods of sitting around at times. I use Star-Tron also. Thoughts?

add polaris fuel treatment to every 5 gal container, basically their version of stabil and a cleaner.

4. I also use Mobil 1 in the above mentioned items. Is that acceptable for use in the RZR? Don't want to start a big oil discussion but want to know if it's okay. My boat owners forum could argue for days on the proper oil for outboards..........

Polaris said it was 2w50, they don't even offer their own recommended 2w50 oil anymore. The severe duty oil change kit has 15w50 oil in it. Some racers are using 10w40, we're running Blud 15w50. Go with whatever brand you like, the higher the zinc content the better.
 

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Advice. Replace the stock air filter setup with a UMP. The oe air filter system is garbage. If you must remain stock filter, check every oe filter with a flashlight in the dark (from inside out) to make sure their are no tear or gaps in the pleats. If there are, you will injest dirt and it will cost you over 3k to replace the motor. If there was only one mod I would recommend to any new RZR800 owner it would be the UMP air filter kit.
 

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Advice. Replace the stock air filter setup with a UMP. The oe air filter system is garbage. If you must remain stock filter, check every oe filter with a flashlight in the dark (from inside out) to make sure their are no tear or gaps in the pleats. If there are, you will injest dirt and it will cost you over 3k to replace the motor. If there was only one mod I would recommend to any new RZR800 owner it would be the UMP air filter kit.
I second that. After reading all the stuff on here about it I replaced mine with an UMP and I use Donaldson air filters in it.
 

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Maybe I just got a "better" unit, but I've never had issues with the stock air filter setup. Could the issues people have reported have to do with where you're riding? Last 5+ yrs of riding Windrock/Sundquist/Royal Blue, I've never found any dust in the intake tube. I do run the OEM filter with an Outerwears sleeve on it though, so maybe that little sleeve helps out alot? Not bashing the UMP setup, just sharing my experience with the OEM setup.
 

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Advice. Replace the stock air filter setup with a UMP. The oe air filter system is garbage. If you must remain stock filter, check every oe filter with a flashlight in the dark (from inside out) to make sure their are no tear or gaps in the pleats. If there are, you will injest dirt and it will cost you over 3k to replace the motor. If there was only one mod I would recommend to any new RZR800 owner it would be the UMP air filter kit.
I agree here 100%. I was just getting ready to do this when I traded for an XP1000. My buddy has 2 800s with UMP filters systems. Way better.
 

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Maybe I just got a "better" unit, but I've never had issues with the stock air filter setup. Could the issues people have reported have to do with where you're riding? Last 5+ yrs of riding Windrock/Sundquist/Royal Blue, I've never found any dust in the intake tube. I do run the OEM filter with an Outerwears sleeve on it though, so maybe that little sleeve helps out alot? Not bashing the UMP setup, just sharing my experience with the OEM setup.
Keep gambling. The $300-400 investment now is well worth saving 3200 on a motor. The paper filters are junk. They tear easily too. Plus the average rider with UMP will only need 1 filter a year at twenty to thirty bucks vs OEM at fifty. Pray all you want and roll the dice. I too thought keeping it stock with a filterwear would save the day. Negative. New air filter and outerwear every race couldn't save my motor. Once the dust gets in the air box there's no way for it to escape until you pull the cover... then about and inch or two of dirt come out. If you're not in the dust at all you might be ok. But if you have dust, as a fellow 800 owner and one who just had to replace my motor. I without a doubt will tell you to get the UMP. Don't do the KNN or SB or Uni or outerwear. Just get the UMP and call it good. Even if it was the only mod you did, you'de me money ahead all day every day if you don't have to replace the motor. I get no royalty from UMP nor do I get a commision. But as a person who had to pay for this repair (even with diligent servicing with new filter every race) I will tell you. You will remember this post and say, damn... I should bought that UMP.
 

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Maybe I just got a "better" unit, but I've never had issues with the stock air filter setup. Could the issues people have reported have to do with where you're riding? Last 5+ yrs of riding Windrock/Sundquist/Royal Blue, I've never found any dust in the intake tube. I do run the OEM filter with an Outerwears sleeve on it though, so maybe that little sleeve helps out alot? Not bashing the UMP setup, just sharing my experience with the OEM setup.


Same here on the wifes 13 800’s. We ride dusty west texas. Hit moab,cottonwood, marysvale and colorado once a year


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442raceRZR;5904808 Keep gambling. The $300-400 investment now is well worth saving 3200 on a motor. The paper filters are junk. They tear easily too. Plus the average rider with UMP will only need 1 filter a year at twenty to thirty bucks vs OEM at fifty. Pray all you want and roll the dice. I too thought keeping it stock with a filterwear would save the day. Negative. New air filter and outerwear every race couldn't save my motor. Once the dust gets in the air box there's no way for it to escape until you pull the cover... then about and inch or two of dirt come out. If you're not in the dust at all you might be ok. But if you have dust said:
I respect your opinion and you do make a valid point based on your experience. You mention "new filter and outerwear every race". I'm not racing, just poking around on the trails at Windrock. I maintain things per the manual, if not better/more often. If it blows up tomorrow, then I'll buy another one and look into fixing what broke when I have free time to mess around in the garage. I recall reading all of the bad stories about them, along with all of the "recommended improvements" that a new owner should make to various models after purchase. All the negative things almost talked me out of it. I researched these SxS toys for nearly 9 months before I decided to just buy one and enjoy it until it broke.
 

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If anyone is intersted in the transformation from weekend rzr to racing rzr... here's my instagram;

https://www.instagram.com/teampistelak/

Also has the fail/upgrades and some other misc stuff. But it speaks for the 800 rzr experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all the advice and information guys. I will be doing the pinion nut "fix" shortly. And FYI, the 800 already has the UMP intake unit. And I ordered and received the new Donaldson filter from Amazon. $18 and change. Less than half the price of the OEM from Polaris. I'll take that any day!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A little update. I just changed the drive belt. Replaced with the Gates belt from Amazon. Seems to fit well. Haven't ridden it yet. I removed a shim from the secondary clutch to line up the belt on the primary clutch better. BTW, make sure you are looking at the right Youtube video when gathering info on torque specs. First video I looked at said torque primary clutch bolt to 95 and secondary to 40. THAT'S WRONG!! It's 40 on the primary, 17 on the secondary. Glad I researched farther. I was watching the wrong video. My bad.

Also got the front diff fluid changed. Doing the transfer case and transmission tomorrow. Also greasing the suspension and changing the air filter. Once all that is done I'll be awaiting the pinion nut kit from Les. Then I think the RZR will be in shape and ready to go for a while.

Almost forgot. Sent the rock sliders/nerf bars off to be stripped and powder coated. Really rusty on the underneath side. Can't wait for this to all be done and get out and see what it will do. Woo hoo.
 
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