usually the case cracks from shock load.
if the internals are ok you can get a heavy duty case from HPD.

 

shock load? From Jumping them? or?

my chunks..

 

Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt.:rm_thumbdown:

 

Are you mechanically inclined enough to take it apart and see what went wrong? Usually always cheaper to work on your own stuff.

 

I'm certain I can fix it myself, I have the service manual for it and it gives pretty good instructions on how to change it. Problem is the cost of parts...at a minimum I'm going to pay $650-$700 for a new case not including whatever it broke or damaged inside the case. A completly new assembly I've found for as low as $1150 and up. I shouldn't have this problem on a machine that is less than a year old.

I hoping to convince Polaris to pay for it since it was obviously mechanical failure. Probably won't happen but its worth a try. I'm curious, though, how many other people have had this same problem. I know I've heard that its happend on 2010 models from other dealerships.

 

The nut on the pinion gear is pretty high torque.
But any trans shop should be able to work on them and set the back lash when intalling the new parts.

 

have a 2012 4 that only had 144 miles on it. Going on a logging road. with 3 people in it. Grinding then a bump. knocked out a whole in the case. Lucky me it was still under warrenty. They just threw a new tranny in it. It was not road hard, and it was an internal problem! Good luck if you need a second case to fight your case, you can PM me.

 

Thanks...I might take you up on that. From what I'm learning this is not an isolated incident. I'll bet polaris knows this is a problem.

 

Look familiar

2011 rzr4 low miles, low hours, bought it used but in mint condition i doubt any previous abuse?
I have done a little web research, seems as though the pinion nut backs off and then the pinion jams between the case braking it in half.
Just got mine back going $1300.00 later.
Installed new diff myself to save labor.
For what its worth it looks like all years of the rzr-s have the updated, same part number for the rear diff.

 

For $1500 you can get the tranny and rear diff. Then sell the Tranny. I sold mine for 900 so rear diff ended up costing $600.

 

Where did you buy your parts from?

 

Babbitsonline.com
1332889 ASM-GEARCASE,COMPLETE $1,229.13 includes the rear diff and tranny
or you can buy just the rear diff for:
3235281 ASM-CARRIER (026CA111X) $1,141.33
It's crazy I know but this is how it is. Lots of people on here are always looking for a tranny. Get some of that money back.
I paid around 1,500 from my dealer installed and then sold the tranny for $900 to a dude in Louisiana from the forum.
:ride:

 

That is messed up about the price difference or lack of difference. Some things sure are priced out funny.

 

I SWEAR if I posted a pic of mine, it looks identical to yours as to what happened. Because mine is covered, I am having the shop do it but I will see if they let me keep the tranny if they replace the whole thing so I can sell it. We shall see.

 

I had the exact same issue. 2012 rzr4 800 bought in Feb. Warranty covered it though. Blew out while my wife was driving with a bunch of kids. Luckily the front wheels still worked enough to get her back to camp.

 

So I was building a new skid plate for mine this week and I noticed that the new transmission was leaking a little bit of fluids. (my transmission blew up as 144 miles) So I take it back into the dealer, who has been great. They said they would take care of it. Just got of the phone with the dealer. They said it looks like machine that puts the sealant on must have trean out of sealant at the end and left a 1/4 gap. This is 2012 4 btw

 

Betwenn me and y buddies we have three 2012 rzr 4's both of them have lost the rear end exactly the same way.....I think I will just sell my RZR and get a Teryx before mine goes out.
Unless any body knows a way to keepit from happening.

 

quick question. i just lost my gearcase. i dont see transmission'm & gearcase complete your talking about - i'm sure i misunderstanding as this is new to me. i just see gearcase (Asm., Gearcase [Incl. All]
1332823)
part 2011 Polaris RANGER RZR XP 900 (R11JH87AA/AD) Drive Train, Main Gearcase | Babbitts Polaris Parts House

thx!

 

that is the xp, op is discussing the 800-4

 

Sorry & thx - shoulda looked a little closer before posting.

 

2011 Polaris RANGER RZR 4/EPS RGE (R11XH76AW/AZ/XY76AA) Drive Train, Gearcase, Carrier Mounting | Babbitts Polaris Parts House

 

I have a diff gear case for sale for 500.00 mine stripped the ring and pinion at 500 mi had to buy a new complete diff. I am in CA.

 

Blew my rear diff yesterday. Just like these other guys in this thread. I mean the pics look exactly like mine. 2011 RBE 4 seater. 1100 easy miles. We were just riding along about 15mph and loud grinding sound skidded to a stop. Broke the pinion and knocked a hole in the case. I was about 15 miles in the middle of the woods. Luckily I still had front wheel drive so I made it back to the truck. Lots of ugly sounds from the rear diff but Im glad it pulled me out of the woods.
Anybody get Polaris to do anything about this? All my roller bearings are out of the cage so I assume the pinion nut backed off and snap. I'll know more after I tear it apart.

 

I was out of warranty when mine happened.

 

After further inspection it is obvious my pinion nut backed off causing the failure. I have a brand new rear diff coming. Anybody got any suggestions of what to do to the new one to keep this from happening again? I had thought about using green loctite on the new pinion nut, but I have read that the loctite will eat the nylon insert up. I have even thought about a small spot weld or using a punch to mar the threads so the nut cant back off again. I know that sound crazy but if it happens again the pinion gear will be broken in half anyhow.
Any ideas.

 

When I replaced mine (The exact same thing happened to it, the nut backed off) I took a punch and staked the threads. So far so good only about 150 miles on it since the replacement though, so we'll see.

 

Yea that is what I was thinking about doing. Or I also thought about using the nut off of my broken pinion and double nutting the new one. I don't see a problem as long as there is room between the nut and the seal.

 

I don't remember what year Polaris made the change, but they used to set the nut with a punch, damaging the threads like you are talking about. Later they changed to the nylock version. You aren't supposed to reuse the nylock nut.

The HPD heavy duty case comes with instructions saying you can use lock tite... Don't remember what type of lock tite though.

 

Ok so been reading everyones comment and was wandering since mine had not broke YET is there anything to do to prevent breakage. I hear alot about the pinion nut backing out so what should i look for. Is it noticeable or something that needs to be checked by torque wrench. Thanks

 

You would have to take the diff apart to check it.