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Discussion Starter #1
I did this modification before our last trip out. I had some trouble with the bed, it probably took longer to get the bed off than anything else with the project. I took a couple photos, maybe it will help the next guy.

Step 1 - The bed itself has 4 Trox (25) screws and 4 bolts (I forget the size). You do NOT need to remove the Torx screws, they only hold the rails to the bed.



Step 2 - Remove 4 bolts from the rear of the bed. These are different lengths, keep track of all the bolts.



Step 3 - Remove 2 screws from each wheel well.



Step 4 - Remove 3 Screws from the fender flair area.



Step 5 - Remove 4 Bolts/Screws from behind the rear seats.



Step 6 - Disconnect the wire for the tail lights (I missed this). It is located on the driver side, right at the roll bar.



Step 7 - Get help if you can. Wiggle the whole thing off the rear of the RZR. I was able to do it by myself, but the fenders kept getting caught.



Here is the underside with the bars in place. They will be attached to the bed if you leave in the first 2 Torx Screws. Check out the nice factory heat shield :rm_thumbdown:



I found a nice soft place to put it upside down, I didn't want to risk breaking off the fender flairs.

Good Luck. I hope you marked all the bolt/screw locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
My $22.55 Heat Shield.

I purchased a 2'x4' Sheet of .063 thickness aluminum from Industrial Metal Supply in Riverside. I went with the middle grade of 'Hardness', I think it was a 3.

I used the Wiss Sheers/Snips I had from a previous project. They are rated to cut 20 guage steel. I'm glad I didn't go any thicker with the aluminum, because I could barely cut this stuff.

Step 1 - Remove the Bed - See Above

Step 2 - I used cardboard to make a template for the shield

Step 3 - Start cutting. I needed to remove more material near the roll cage to get it to lay down flat.

Step 4 - Mark and drill 4 holes for the bed bolts. I used a punch to mark the locations, punching up through the hole from underneath.

Before



After



I put one extra screw into rear corner of the 1x1 cross bar.



I got lazy and didn't trim my corners off. I might do that later. I think they extra aluminum will disipate more heat and you can barely see it.





UTV Inc makes a very nice pre-cut heat shield. Their heat shield has a 'stamp' in the sheet metal and I bet it is more rigid.
 

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Hey, good job and nice photos. I did the same thing with my std 800, with a little more shaping at the corners. It made a huge difference in heat to the plastic bed. Without it you couldn't keep your hand on the front passenger side of the bed after a ride. With the heat shield the bed doesn't seem to warm up much at all. It's all about dissipation like you mentioned.

I stuck some aluminized pipe wrap to the shield where it sits on the frame members to damp out any buzzy vibration. I also drilled a 1-1/2 hole thru the shield and the bed to get to the rear-most spark plug if necessary without needing to remove the bed (I can barely touch that rear plug from the behind-the-seat access).

The heat shield is another spot (among many) to collect mud but it's well worth it. That 12" X 12" factory shield is woefully inadequate.
 

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using the heat shield has anyone noticed the engine running hotter or cooler? and I am assuming the heat shield is only for protection of the plastic bed? I am looking at doing the same thing I am just concerned that the larger piece of metal/alumnium would keep more heat on the motor
 

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I normally keep my gauge mode showing engine temp and I haven't noticed a difference either way (this was before winter). Essentially the whole aluminum sheet heats up and because it is large and has air on both sides of it, it just wastes the heat into the moving air. That plastic bed got hot too but it didn't actually conduct heat away like aluminum would (remember, good electrical conductor = good heat conductor, plastic = insulator = poor heat conductor).

Now I have heard that those who snorkle their machines may see a temperature increase. The belt drive air outlet, which blows across the top of the engine, under the bed, can make a difference with cooling.
 

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Nice pics man!!! I was just looking through my shop manual to see how to get mine off without taking out unnecessary screws and now i know.
 

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I've often considered this modification. Is there any increased noise/rattling with a larger shield? Or is the install fairly solid?
 

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Nice job. I did a similar thing to mine after my cooler had a melt down in the bed! I also rolled some beads in it to make it more ridgid.While I had the bed off I also made a heatshield/gas tank shield of the same material.Later, Trashpicker

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't notice any more noise from back there. If you cut off the excess (like Trash and the UTV Inc) there would be even less aluminum to bang around.

I'll probably trim mine some more in the future, but I was short on time during the install and my hand was tired of cutting the aluminum :)
 

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Nice pics man!!! I was just looking through my shop manual to see how to get mine off without taking out unnecessary screws and now i know.
One thing I started doing since I take my bed off a lot more than I should is leave the four outermost screws that are located in the bed and just remove the four in the center. That way the cross braces are still lined up with the bolt holes in the frame when you go to put it back on.
 

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I did this modification before our last trip out. I had some trouble with the bed, it probably took longer to get the bed off than anything else with the project. I took a couple photos, maybe it will help the next guy.

Hello Nightmare,
It's March 2019 and your post STILL ROCKS. :big-grin
Thanks for all of the great info. I'm going outside and disassemble
my RZR 4 800. Change some plugs, make a better heat shield and more.
Then tear up some trails. :grin
Thanks again,
Kenny Tee
 
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