I'll add that the RZR fires and runs on starting fluid so we are looking at a fuel issue one way or another. Its fuel injected, not sure if they all were in these years. Sort of like a Chevy TBI setup where it injects in the intake tube it looks like.

 

You can try to wire the pump straight to see if it would run then. As I suggested on the other thread, get a repair manual and go through the wiring diagrams. Will take out all the guessing. Short of that, pull fuel pump relay and test the fuse box for power, ground and signal power, signal ground.

 

And its not TBI its multi port injection. Both injectors are mounted on top of the head, behind the valve cover.

 

Ok, I’m looking for an idea how to test pin 28. You have to test it connected right? So do you poke into the wire and repair it? My tester has fairly dull test leads. What are you guys doing for this?

 

You can either back probe the connector or if you are going to poke through the wire insulation then I suggest using a safety pin.

 

Back to this on days off again. I bought some testing probes for back probing and wire probing. I also bought the manual. To my surprise it does not have a PIN number diagram in the Clymer manual I bought. The colors are numbered in the book. Number 28 in the book is a blue wire that goes to the “speedo diagnostic”. The fuel pump brown goes to ground. Purple goes to gauge cluster (probably fuel level), red/blk goes to PTO and MAG injectors as well as the ignition coil.

The EFI relay has a gray/white wire to the ECU plug and a red/white wire to the ECU (the are across the relay coil. A Red/blk connected to the others I feel must be power out from the relay. And an orange wire that connects to red on the ignition.

is the Gray/white wire on the ECU the “pin 28” spoken of that should go to ground for 2-3 seconds with a key cycled on?

The troubleshooting in this book is not very in-depth at all.

 

The ECU’s red/white wire is closed to ground 2.2ohms and 60 ohms to battery positive (key off and open to ground key on. It is 12.6 v key off and .5v key on to batt positive.

The gray/wht wire: key off 86 ohms to batt neg and 65 orms to batt pos. Key off 0v to batt neg and 12.6v to batt pos. Key on open to neg, and connected to positive. Key on 11.86v to batt neg and .5v to batt pos.
Think my ECU is good?

 

I retested the fuel pump wires between red and brown when key is turned on is 12v for 1 sec max then down to 5v, 4.6v or whatever. It deffinately is not 2-3 seconds. When I ohm the fuel pump side red to black I get 1.6 ohms and a “continuity” beep. Maybe the pump is seized but I don’t hear it trying to spin at all. The Clymer manual says continuity is good but an open needs fuel pump replacement. Next I’ll try to figure out how to Hotwire the pump on the tiny male pins…should be fun.

 

As i suggested before a "factory" as in OEM Polaris repair manual will have the info you are searching for. That the 1st thing I purchase after getting a new machine. Factory manuals are more in depth than most clymer or other brands.

 

Ok, I hot wired the fuel pump and it does not work. I did get 1.6 ohms that should be good but maybe it’s seized with varnish from 3 years sitting. Fuel pump being ordered. For anyone following this, a test light with an incandescent bulb draws more current than an LED. A test probe lights for one second or maybe less. When it drops to 5v it is t even enough to light the test bulb so basically no current. They say 2 to 3 seconds but mine cycles for one second or slightly less.

 

Ok, I got wired the fuel pump and it does not work. I did get 1.6 ohms that should be good but maybe it’s seized with varnish from 3 years sitting. Fuel pump being ordered. For anyone following this, a test light with an incandescent bulb draws more current than an LED. A test probe lights for one second or maybe less. When it drops to 5v it is t even enough to light the test bulb so basically no current. They say 2 to 3 seconds but mine cycles for one second or slightly less.

Have you tried testing everything with the fuel pump unhooked? 1 second just seems short, but it maybe that short.

 

Yea I would say the ecu has been flashed. I've never really timed mine pump prime, it may only last a sec.

 

Update: it’s running. I put in a new fuel pump and it now cycles on with the key and runs. The key on pump cycle is one second or less. I’ve heard it should be 2-3 seconds so this may be part of the Muzzy stage 3 flash. Not positive.

I’ve confirmed it is not charging as originally told. With no load it shows charging when revved up but as soon as I add headlights it goes lower than at idle. Full battery 12.5 volts engine off. Engine running with headlights on at 4000 rpm plus 12.15 volts. I’m sure it will continue to drop. I’ll make a new post for this issue to stay on topic.