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2010 rzr 800 issues

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6.7K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  Kaydenb  
#1 ·
Hello I'm new to the fourm and have a quick question. I had picked up a new to me 2010 rzr 800 last week that was running but has issues. It start and runs but very poorly, I have spark, compression (150 psi each cyl) and must be fuel if it is running but it will not get over 4k rpm, any suggestions, thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
150 compression is low. That alone can make it run poorly. Check fuel pressure cause fuel pump is a known problem on these things. Get a repair manual. Could be many things out of tune. It's a very fine balance to tune the 800 to perfection. Mine always ran very sputtery and inconsistent for years.I've been through everything on it and even a rebuild due to dusting. Another unfortunate common flaw on the 800. After I rebuilt the motor it's ran smooth and flawless. I've never had the problem of not revving to 6k rpms but oil pressure fuel and compression I would think would be the cause. I would monitor your oil pressure with a gauge to see if PRV isn't sticking. Good luck.
 
#3 ·
Sounds like the machine may be in limp mode.
Are you showing any codes on instrument cluster?

Here's a link to download a service manual & page from manual showing how to check codes.
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#5 ·
It's been a while, but my fuel pump came in the other day and somehow made it worse, the original fuel pump had 25psi of fuel pressure at idle, and was the original polaris oem ( i repaced with a quantam), still don't have any codes popping up, looks like the previous owner had tried to adjust the tps, could that be a problem. I have a tps tester harnes on the way now any recommendations in the meantime. Thanks once again
 
#6 ·
What does the quantum fuel pump psi read? You need ~39 psi.

Yes, if the TPS is off it is not going to idle or run right. You still have 150 psi compression which is the bare minimum so may be time for a rebuild.

Also check the oil prv that it isn't sticking.

And lastly, take the valve cover off and see if there are any gaps between valves/rockers/push rods.
 
#9 ·
Was that a drop in fuel pump? If so those are expensive and I would return it. I rebuilt mine with an Amazon kit. Was only 20 bucks. Was pretty easy but that plastic is brittle. If I have to do it again I'll buy a drop in. Yea you're supposed to have 39 psi or above. That's why it's running worse but bottom line is your compression is low to point of rebuild. Does the fuel pump have a pressure rating? They all state the psi rating either in manual or description.
 
#12 ·
The compression spec in the manual is 150-200 psi. I'm not saying a rebuild would not be a good idea (it's always good to get in there) but don't be surprised if you get it all back together and its the same. Mine idles fine at 90 psi and I can hit 6000 rpm with ease. 32 psi is way too low. Mine hits 42 psi and it's a unbranded china special off ebay, $80 shipped.
 
#13 ·
So after a lot of waiting I finally received my new fuel pump from quantam fuel systems, and I installed it and it works good all of the pressures are good and the dosent drop under load, I also installed new ngk plugs, and for some reason it still dosent want to rev over 4k rpm just boggs and hits a wall, any more suggestions, thanks in advance.
 
#14 ·
Could be many things. Check oil pressure. That might cause it. Could be a stuck valve or air leak in system. Mine leaked really bad at the head intake. Was bogging but still would rev to limit. I've been through most problems on mine but it revving to limit was never an issue and my motor was dusted beyond belief. Not sure bud. Good luck.
 
#16 ·
Probably lifter or valve I would think as well as compression. Lifter usually means camshaft. When my motor got smoked on the trail from dusting it still drove but very chattery and crappy. One of my lifters were so mushroomed you couldn't pull it out from top. Had to pull it down through crankcase. I know the OP wants to save money but Rebuild is probably the only way to solve the issue.
 
#18 ·
Me and my buddy went with Niche. Was 260$ with new jug,pistons etc. Both run perfect. Rev 6 is the best quality and closest to OEM. I would dig into it before ordering and see if camshaft/lifters are damaged. Then you'll be pulling the motor to repair. My recommendation is to atleast clean head,lap valves and replace exhaust seals. I fear since your machine is not revving the camshaft might be damaged. It might also be a weak lifter as I've read issues like that where camshaft is good but lifters were bad. Only way to know is dig into it. Just post your pics of lifters and camshaft and one of us will chime in to help you verify. Before digging into it I would take valve cover off and run it to see if lifters,push rods are operating like rijoh2000 said. You don't even really need to run it cause if a lifter is collapsed you should see a gap on rocker arms/pushrods. Good luck
 
#19 ·
Hello everyone, today I had pulled off the valve cover and everything seems clean and tight with oil flowing, no collapsed lifters or lose push rods, and the valves are opening and closing,this might be a dumb question but is there anyway to adjust the valves? Thanks in advance