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2008, voltage regulator relocation issues?

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7.8K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  plainbroke  
#1 ·
So I have a pair of 2008 models with regulators in the stock location, well actually I remounted them in front of the rear tire in an effort to get more air flow as they like to overheat as you know. I lost another one this week, so I decided to build a wire harness and move them up front. I bought a bunch of 12 g primary wire and plan to cut and solder it in, protect with heat shrink, and have the connector up front with the vr.

I was reading up on it some more and am second guessing a bit. Will the extra wire cause enough voltage drop to cause heat issues in the stator wires? Is 12 g big enough?

Also, are the 3 stator wires in a specific order and need to be hooked up exactly as they are? I'm assuming not but not 100% sure.

From what I can tell, the custom built harness that some were selling was all 12 g wire so I think I'm gtg, but would like some input.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
That is what I did on my 08. Get wire the same colors as the stock and match the color on both ends. Back in the day Polaris made a bracket one could buy for mounting up front. Might look on the Polaris website and see if it is still available. Look at the parts list for 08 and later up to 13. Should find the bracket listed. Wrap all the harness with electrical tape. Remove the center console, run the wires in a safe place and quick tie them down. Extra wire will cause no problems. Match color and size of wire and you will be fine.
 
#3 ·
Bracket & screws:

 
#4 ·
Cool thanks guys. I will make a simple bracket out of a couple pieces of light strap iron, when I looked up the Polaris bracket it was 25 bucks now.

So the dual reds and blacks aren't sensitive as to hooking each one up exactly to the same one either then? Actually, why are their two of each on this model, and only one of each when I look up later years?

The single wire with a bullet connector, I understand that's power coming out of the vr and running the tach and hour meter?
 
#6 ·
This was just another issue Polaris should have stepped up and recalled but they declined. Many things like this on the 2008's.

Back in the day somebody was selling these harnesses on the forum. He would be a good source for information if a search turned up his info and can still be contacted.
 
#7 ·
Ok thanks for the info guys. I plan on tearing into this project this week if I get a chance.

Buzzed up to the Black Hills today for a day trip. We did some easy trails with some incredible scenery. These little 800's are still a heck of a fun machine, and I like how quiet they are with the right exhaust. I don't think I could stand the roar of the 1k for very long.
 
#8 ·
I finally got started on this project yesterday after work and finished up this evening, got both machines done. I was wishing those ready made harnesses were still available! What a pita.

But after getting a decent soldering gun, and learning how to use it lol, I think I did a pretty good job on it. The bracket was easy, just a 1" wide 1/8" strap iron, 5.5" long. I just used the one strap and hung the vr sideways from the angle iron that runs in front of the radiator. I ran all the wires in 1/2" corrugated wire loom, 4 wires in each. I ran them down the drivers side, just inside the frame rail. There they should be perfectly protected and there are no other wires there.

One of them had a lot of mud caked on top of the vr where I had placed them previously, so I'm glad I got them moved.

Now for the weird. After I finished the first machine, I was test driving it, watching the tach. It would intermittently drop 1 to 2k rpm. Fast runs where it should have been reading in the high 5s it wouldn't even hit 4. Then the next run, it would be back to normal. The engine was running normal, and speed was good normal, just rpm was wonky. I was worried I had a bad joint but everything ohm tested good. Finally started troubleshooting with my daughter holding the throttle at 3k and telling me when it would drop, I found the voltage coming out of the vr single wire would go from 16 volts down to 8 iirc at the same moment the rpm would drop. So the vr is intermittently throwing odd voltages at the tach and giving weird readings.

That vr was put on new a week ago and puts out good voltage for charging. I don't know if that varies also as I didn't test it. I drove it 30 miles last Sunday but didn't watch the tach, so don't know if it was doing it before but I suspect it was. I don't think that anything that I did would have caused it.

Anyone ever see something like that before?
 
#10 ·
I see you've already extended the harness, but if there is a "next time", the parts to build a proper extension are only about $50-60. I built a few of these back in the day for friends (but I wasn't the guy on here selling them), and they aren't hard to build. I think I actually used 10g wire when I built them just because of the extended length.

The 08's were very hard on voltage regulators...for whatever reason. I've one through several of them over the years, but I'm running the 65amp Cycle Worx for about a year, and had no problems. Not to mention, finally more than juice to run everything. For whatever reason, I noticed that the mofset VRs always had a tach problem. I tried them from several manufacturers, and they all either did not read the tach at all, or would read incorrectly. Damn if I know why.

If you haven't already, make sure you have dielectric grease in your connections, and check it regularly. Also, keep constant check on your stator wires & connection right out of the engine. They have a habit of wearing through and shorting out because of their location.
 
#11 ·
All good advise I think, thanks. I didn't know the connectors were easily available or I would have gone that way probably. What about crimping them? Oh well, no matter now.

I wondered if it was a mosfet thing. I'll check out the Cycle Worx. Exactly how do you inspect the stator wires? Aren't they hidden right behind the clutch cover? I did check the voltage from them, both machines are 20 v at idle. With some throttle it was putting out 50-60 volts.
 
#12 ·
The connectors are either WeatherPack or Metripack (I forget which one right now), and can be purchased a lot of places. Technically, they use a specialized crimper for the terminals, but unless you do a lot of wiring, they aren't worth the price. You can easily crimp them with needle nose pliers, if you take your time.

If you have 20, 50, 60 volts you're checking the AC wires coming from the stator, and that's about right. But remember that only comes out to about 41 amps of usable current, at full rpm's.

The stator wires come out of the stator cover, and the connection is basically under the engine. It was easiest for me to access it by removing the skid plate. I have seen a TON of charging issues from that plug either being damaged, or full of mud/water.

Also, on the battery side of the starter solenoid, there is a "tree" of 3 wires on a single connector. That "tree" of wires are fusible links.......1 for the main power wire into your fuse block, and the other 2 are eventually connected to the 2 red wires coming off the voltage regulator. That's how the battery gets charged. I have seen all sorts of weird charging issues, and various other electrical glitches caused by one of the fusible links shorting out from the VR. You still have 1, but not getting full power because the other is blown. It's like chasing your tail trying to figure out what's wrong because unless you KNOW they are fusible links, they like like normal wires, and you never think to check them.

If you need an 08 service manual, PM me your email address, and I can send you one.
 
#13 ·
Hi guys,i apologize in advance for bad English..
Need your help,because russian sbs forums can't give me an answer.

My trouble start when I changed the regulator ( overvoltage) , the trouble is this: you press the gas, and the tachometer shows the wrong speed ... idle no matter where you go, and the rest is a failure ... the motor is in the cutoff (by the sound of the exhaust), and on the alarm clock 2500 ...


I checked all the windings on the generator, conducted all the tests from the manual, everything is normal .... but I won’t know what about the turns of the mind ....
read that it might be due to the CPS , but it works fine ...current resistance is normal.


thanks for answers