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So I bought a used 2018 Turbo Dynamics and finally got my first trip to the dunes last week. Ran fine for 3 days and on the fourth day I went for a quick ride before we loaded up to come home. Ran about 10 minutes hard and it went into limp mode and within a minute shut down. I had the GPS screen on and was not really watching the temp. Got towed back in and came home. I have read a bunch of turbo overheating threads and most pertain to the 2016s'. It appears that the most common problem is air in system. My question is should I look for something else first (thermostat, water pump) or just go ahead and change all three before I bleed the air from system? The air purge seems to be rather time consuming.
 

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What I don't get here is why he can run for a few days with no over heating issues then on the 4th day it over heats. If there was air in the system shouldn't it not over heat on the first day, plus where or how would air get into the system after running for 3 days?
Interested as this has happened with my 17 Turbo.
Keep us posted Maniacdriver.
 

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What I believe happens, when you are riding over hills, up and down, at a fair angle, is that air can get trapped in the reservoir and transferred to the motor. I have a 16 turbo that I FINALLY got fixed. Mine had multiple issues but I have bleed it, confident that I got it all out, went riding at the dunes, overheated and was able to bleed more air. If this is your problem, I have a solution.

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Check plenum intercooler for leaks. Had that happen a couple weeks ago on my 18. Was told it is a known problem. Of course only if your losing fluid. Pull exhaust and remove bolts from cooler, if antifreeze is in plenum you found your problem. Then go to KT performance and get aftermarket. Pricey but worth it.
 

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I have a 16 XPT and overheating was a problem during the heat of the day. Not anymore.,I went with this set up. I dropped about 30-40 deg on rad temps and that much more on intercooler temps. https://hardcoretuning.com/collections/rzr-turbo/products/hct-polaris-xp-turbo-split-system-coolant-tank-kit?variant=8196114841688

That is a huge drop on engine temp !! ...so now your engine temp is only 170 or 180 Max?
That's marketing lol. It doesn't work that good. I have a better setup than just a split tank. I have a complete CBR radiator setup (2 separate radiators) relocated to the bed, separating both turbo and motor cooling completely. My kit is the Hess Motorsports V2.0 radiator kit.

However using that kit with bigger and better radiators, stronger and larger fan, I'm still in the low 200s most of the time. I do ride dunes so there is more drag on the motor. But no way that split tank is dropping your temps that much unless you run on flat grounds or down hills only so there is little load, low outside ambient air temps, etc.

For the record, I mostly upgraded to my radiator setup because I couldn't stand my hot cab with the cooling lines running underneath me. Those are now eliminated and my cab temps are AMAZING!
 

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I have a 16 XPT and overheating was a problem during the heat of the day. Not anymore.,I went with this set up. I dropped about 30-40 deg on rad temps and that much more on intercooler temps. https://hardcoretuning.com/collections/rzr-turbo/products/hct-polaris-xp-turbo-split-system-coolant-tank-kit?variant=8196114841688

That is a huge drop on engine temp !! ...so now your engine temp is only 170 or 180 Max?
That's marketing lol. It doesn't work that good. I have a better setup than just a split tank. I have a complete CBR radiator setup (2 separate radiators) relocated to the bed, separating both turbo and motor cooling completely. My kit is the Hess Motorsports V2.0 radiator kit.

However using that kit with bigger and better radiators, stronger and larger fan, I'm still in the low 200s most of the time. I do ride dunes so there is more drag on the motor. But no way that split tank is dropping your temps that much unless you run on flat grounds or down hills only so there is little load, low outside ambient air temps, etc.

For the record, I mostly upgraded to my radiator setup because I couldn't stand my hot cab with the cooling lines running underneath me. Those are now eliminated and my cab temps are AMAZING!
"That's marketing lol. It doesn't work that good. I have a better setup than just a split tank"

Good to know that you've actually use the HTC setup, real world experience. Instead of "Mine is better..." I'll have to admit, for $1400 vs the $650 I spent (with duel gauge) Yours should keep drinks cold :eek:k:
No, it's not marketing, it's just a super happy customer. Me. When it was 90 deg out on the dunes and running hard I saw rad and
intercooler temps of 230 easily and limp mode at 240. Couldn't hardly dune during the heat of the day other than cruising around. So yes I AM seeing a drop of 30 to 40 degrees and another 30 to 40 below that on the intercooler.
The hottest rad temp was 205 maybe 210 with 97 degrees air temp out on the dunes this past weekend. And maybe 160 intercooler temp. You can take it or leave it but that is what my duel HTC gauge was telling me and I can certainly feel the difference in performance. At night running hard I saw 185 rad and 140 intercooler. I love it and it solved my problems on my
Stage 2 tune, SLP muffler and Evo charge tube 16 XPT. Run what you want, I was just trying to help and give you my real world exp. It's been the best performance upgrade I've spent my $$ on.
 

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No, it's not marketing, it's just a super happy customer. Me. When it was 90 deg out on the dunes and running hard I saw rad and
intercooler temps of 230 easily and limp mode at 240. Couldn't hardly dune during the heat of the day other than cruising around. So yes I AM seeing a drop of 30 to 40 degrees and another 30 to 40 below that on the intercooler.
The hottest rad temp was 205 maybe 210 with 97 degrees air temp out on the dunes this past weekend. And maybe 160 intercooler temp. You can take it or leave it but that is what my duel HTC gauge was telling me and I can certainly feel the difference in performance. At night running hard I saw 185 rad and 140 intercooler. I love it and it solved my problems on my
Stage 2 tune, SLP muffler and Evo charge tube 16 XPT. Run what you want, I was just trying to help and give you my real world exp. It's been the best performance upgrade I've spent my $$ on.
I wasn't saying you aren't happy and that you are lying. However, your data and what I feel HCT is putting out as data that while true is based in certain circumstances and at the overheat temp, not regular riding temps. Point in case, you said 30-40 degrees cooler in your original post, to which Max H replied asking, so you are driving around at 170-180 degrees? You didn't answer this. I will, the answer to his question is no, no you're not driving around at 170-180 in normal conditions. And neither is anyone else running that split tank.

For those that don't know since we are on the subject, all a split tank is doing is preventing the hot coolant of the intercooler from mixing with hot coolant of the engine to create one combined hot liquid. So if for example your engine coolant is 220 degrees and your intercooler coolant is 180 and it is mixing before returning back you'll essentially have a combined coolant temp of 200. This coolant continues to circulate and rise in temp sending hotter and hotter coolant throughout not only your motor but also the intercooler creating a vicious cycle of heat soak. Separating the intercooler coolant from motor eliminates that cycle. This is the benefit of the split system. I have no doubts you understand that just saying it so others understand as well.

Now back to the claims and why they are ridiculous. You are saying 30-40 degree drop, however that drop is from max temp at limp mode 240 degrees. While what you say is true for you in limp mode and now seeing 205-210 as your high, most people simply don't run or allow their engine to get that hot at 240. For most drivers who stay in the 200-210 degree range the benefit of a split system will be minor. For them with a split tank instead of say 210 degrees normal engine temp they're now run at 200 and are eliminating that heat soak at the intercooler (the true benefit). That is real world for most users. That is what should be advertised and said about this product. Giving an example of 30-40 degrees is the extreme that most people won't ever see. So while true, it is a marketing gimmick to advertise it as the normal. That's my point.

Yes, there is a benefit to a split tank. Is it that big of a benefit I don't think so, definitely not one the average person or myself could justify spending an additional $650+ on. I think if someone can figure out how to make a split tank for say $300 retail, you'd see way more people running them. That HCT tank is a work of art though, well crafted. There are also other companies that do the same for a little less.

For my own curiosity where are those HCT temp probes located? Are the temp readings taken from the actual split tank? I'm going to guess it is at the split tank itself, aka the coolest location right after it comes out of the radiator... I would suspect that reading to differ from your factory reading if so, with your factory reading being more accurate at the thermostat. Assuming that's correct I'd monitor your factory reading over the HCT gauge readings. Also, how did you know your intercooler temps before getting the split tank?
 

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That screw is a pain in the butt to get to. Anyone ever tried a vacuum filler on these? I didn’t know if it would work if it already had a captured air pocket in the head. If I have to do this more than once a vacuum filler would be worth the money spent


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I use what they call "air lift" to fill my cooling system. It works perfect, leaves no air in the system. Pulls system into a vacuum then draws the coolant in. The HCT spit tank does more than split the two cooling systems. You remove the thermostat and put in a restrictor and block the bypass hose which forces all coolant through the radiator. It has helped my rzr to run cooler. Under normal riding "not duning" while cruising my temps are 170 to 180. Obviously temps come up till the fan runs while moving slow.
 

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OP, check your intercooler core. The bolts can be reached without removing any components. Pretty quick to check. Here was mine with under 300 miles on it. 17 xpt.


Was it leaking? I couldn’t really tell in pic.


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That screw is a pain in the butt to get to. Anyone ever tried a vacuum filler on these? I didn’t know if it would work if it already had a captured air pocket in the head. If I have to do this more than once a vacuum filler would be worth the money spent


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I just installed the above mentioned split tank, and in their instructions they bleed the air at the upper thermostat hose. I was a little skeptical, but it seems to have worked great and is FAR easier than using the factory bleed screw, you can get to it without taking anything off really.

Raise the front of the machine up a couple feet, pull the upper thermostat hose, purge the air, replace the hose, top the coolant off, and the let it idle up to temp, when the fan kicks on, the temp should go down, if it doesn't, repeat the process. After two purges mine seems to be working perfectly.

Since I split the tanks, I also purged the upper inter cooler hose as well, although the electric pump in that system can usually push a little air pocket out without issue, it still seemed like a good idea.

A Vaccum filler does work awesome in everything else I've used one on, but the one I have doesn't have the right cap adapter for the smaller rzr cap, could probably find one fairly easily I would think tho.
 

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OP, check your intercooler core. The bolts can be reached without removing any components. Pretty quick to check. Here was mine with under 300 miles on it. 17 xpt.


Was it leaking? I couldn’t really tell in pic.

Yes. Spraying right into the intake. Overheated and made it back to the trailer. I am ALWAYS watching my temp gauge now.


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OP, check your intercooler core. The bolts can be reached without removing any components. Pretty quick to check. Here was mine with under 300 miles on it. 17 xpt.


Was it leaking? I couldn’t really tell in pic.

Yes. Spraying right into the intake. Overheated and made it back to the trailer. I am ALWAYS watching my temp gauge now.


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with it spraying into the intake like that was there any smoke out of the exhaust?
 

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OP, check your intercooler core. The bolts can be reached without removing any components. Pretty quick to check. Here was mine with under 300 miles on it. 17 xpt.


Was it leaking? I couldn’t really tell in pic.

Yes. Spraying right into the intake. Overheated and made it back to the trailer. I am ALWAYS watching my temp gauge now.


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with it spraying into the intake like that was there any smoke out of the exhaust?
Only under full load. It did foul out the plugs. One cylinder was worse than the other.
 
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