My question would be why start with a turbo rzr just to pull out the drive train ?

 

Because everything else behind the motor has been upgraded. Also when you start adding weight such as doors,cage, seats, radios and big tires it severely effects performance. All of my riding is in the sand so i like big power. I know the Z1 can provide it reliably. Plus can be turned up to the moon if i really want too.

 

Good luck with the build, I love Z1 engines...:ride:
milos

 

Thanks! plus the sale of the motor washed the upgrade from a standard 4 seater to the XPT.

 

For a fuel pump solution This link may be of interest for you.

Good Luck .. ..

:drive1:

 

Awesome! a wealth of knowledge as usual.

 

While mine is only a 2015, which has the baby trans and diff, it sure is fun.





The Z1 cars rip for sure.

Sam

 

Nice

 

I don't have a problem to run 255 on the 1000 swap, but I don't have any extra light or anything else which need the extra power.
milos

 

We run 255 on bigger hp Z1s with no problems.

 

I sized my in-tank fuel pump based on the calculated engine HP. I took into account the factory fuel pump circuit (10 Amps) and allowed for a margin of error. I also took into account the physical size of the pump.

For my needs I selected a DeatschWerks in-tank pump -- Specifically the DW100.

These pumps are warrantied with a limited lifetime warrantee. They are a High Performance aftermarket pump specifically designed for both Gas and Alcohol. One might read their full description -- Impressive pumps.

For the Walbro in-tank family of fuel pumps -- Here is their flow/amp chart:

Here is the chart for the pump I selected:

If one is going to run Alcohol or push some serious HP -- Then one might select this pump:

One point on the 2 DW charts relating to BHP -- This is referencing a N/A engine. If one is Boosted -- Subtract 15% for an estimated BHP reference.

Hope this is of some interest .. .. ..

FUN Times ... .. . :rofl3:

:drive1:

 

I figured no sense in "over spec" if not needed. A 255L pump will handle over 500HP Gas N/A if I remember right. The 190L saved me around 30-40 watts.

Most people don't run long enough with many accessories to even worry about power consumption. But if you have a lot of accessories or run at night with lots of lights you should pay attention. I guess Pace has an alternator option for the Z1. I noticed Johnny Angel has even added an alternator to his new XPT4 race car because even the larger Polaris stator couldn't keep up with the accessory demands of the race environment.

 

so stupid question.. what arctic cat sled has the z1 motor? the m1100?

 

Yes , every model with 1100 in reference have a Z1 engine.
Milos

 

We have an alternator kit and also use the 255 pump when the stock pump isn't enough with no problems, you must use 2 batteries with alternators, I don't use the alternator on my personal car but my shop guy does.. We are also working on the motor mount to the Turbo XP trans now..

 

Can you post or direct me to some pictures of your alternator setup? I've looked around but can't find any of it. I don't know if it would fit in my custom Z1 install I did.

 

I saw a setup that ran off of the driveline in the tunnel. Custom mounted chevy 1 wire alternator that the driveline turned as the car rolled. Pretty neato

 

Hawk's high output stator for the Z1 also sounds promising.

 

Yeah, but I think at best is was only gonna be 100-150 watt more. Anything is better and may be my only option IF I even need / want it.

 

We are testing the stator when we have good weather. If you dont run a waterproof belt cover, you can run an exernal alternator off primary or even secondary clutch as we have done both. I also have a customer running one off the driveshaft.

I am building a whole new car with the turbo 1k driveline right now and will give more details soon.

 

What secondary battery do you use? My z1 had trouble after running it about 1 hour with out charging it.

 

Are you using the Z1 voltage regulator or the Polaris voltage regulator?

 

I use lithium iron batteries.

 

What are you running besides engine and coolers? I have a hard time running with Light bar and whips. Trying to figure out best fix for this.

 

Run 2x or 3x Lithium Iron batteries and you can run a 30" light bar no problem. They hold voltage unlike a lead acid or AGM battery and only weight 3.5 lbs each!!! They also recharge faster and last 3 to 5 times longer. And our upgraded stator is also helping to recharge them faster. I use the biggest Battery Tender brand. I know 2 will fit in the stock 1k location. I can put 4 in mine since I cut it out for a bigger AGM to begin with.

 

What is the model # of the battery???

1) Shorai LFX14L2-BS12 Lithium-Iron Battery
2) Shorai LFX09L2-BS12 Lithium-Iron Battery
3) Shorai LFX14A1-BS12 Lithium-Iron Battery

4) Other Model #

 

just to be sure, you are suggesting

12V, 480 LCA Lithium Engine Start Battery

 

Yes that is the one.

Amazon $217 to your door.

 

Everyone needs to be aware of system voltage related to EFI. When you have voltages ranging from 11.5v (or less) - 14.5v it can really cause you some tune problems.

We all know that fuel pump pressures will drop with voltage but so does injector flows. Higher end ECU's and calibrations will have a voltage / flow offset table and can compensate for voltage fluctuations to some degree. I'm not sure if OEM Polaris ECM's do this, OR the OEM Arctic Cat Z1 ECM's?

I was tuning a sandrail one time that every time the dual electric fans would kick on the voltage would dip into the 10v range just ever so briefly. The electronic pedal looses communication with the ECM at this point and the engine would go into reduced power (limp mode). Solution was to split the two fans circuit and actuate a few degrees from each other so they both wouldn't come on simultaneously.

A significant voltage drop (by fans turning on for example) at wide open throttle can cause a hesitation or "hick-up" that can make you chase your tail for awhile.

ALWAYS include system voltage in ALL data logging and pay attention to it!

 

I run the AEM infiny, it seems every time i get low voltage either the box shuts engine down,, or when i turn off and either jump it or recharge it i have to unplug ecu to reset it then every thing is ok

 

Updated pics.

 

Got her running this week and did a shake down in glamis.

 

Looks good ! Those 30" Skats are 9 or 10 paddles ? Did they work good ?
milos

 

31" 10 paddle. I didn't get my multi position boost switch installed for the weekend so i was running at 10 psi and they did pretty good. I didn't do any racing from a stop to see how well they dig. Hopefully i can get some more miles on the motor and the boost switch hooked up in the next couple weeks. Then more testing.

 

Concept to completion