Figured I'd start a thread for those of us with AAX's clutch kit as a kind of database for people to reference. Please post your weight setup, mods and tire size.
16 Xpt, exhaust + AAX stage 3 tune and clutch kit on 28" Stu blasters with a factory Polaris belt - starting at the recommended 2-1-1, will update here when I get a chance to take it out.
Some good info from Michael @ Aftermarket Assassins:
Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:
Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.
So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.
More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change
Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift
Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift
Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
16 Xpt, exhaust + AAX stage 3 tune and clutch kit on 28" Stu blasters with a factory Polaris belt - starting at the recommended 2-1-1, will update here when I get a chance to take it out.
Some good info from Michael @ Aftermarket Assassins:
Here is some good info you can edit into your first post for those checking this thread.. instead of digging through pages:
Think of your CVT clutches like a manual transmission and you just added a bunch of power to your car, bike, quad... ect and have stock gears. First gear is now seeming useless as is 4th gear. Thats because the more power pull the RPM up quicker, and has the ability to tackle taller gearing without an issue. Shifting faster and harder will always make you faster IF you have the power to pull it. That's essentially just like a CVT transmission. We are now making more power, so our RPM will jump up much too quick. To properly harness the power, you need to shift the transmission quicker.
So why not just add some weight? Why does a clutch kit work wonders on even a stock machine? Manipulating springs and helixes along with weight is important to make everything work together and provide even amounts of load to both the clutches. The factory has to put a machine out that is quite frankly..... lazy. This is the attempt at nice drivability, even though our aftermarket kits are not jerky... they are actually very smooth. We are able to get a little more aggressive in how the clutch up shifts and back shifts to push that power to the wheels quicker.
More Clutch Weight = Less RPM
Less Clutch Weight = More RPM
One magnet is roughly a 150rpm change
Higher starting rate on the primary spring = higher clutch engagement
Lower primary spring starting rate = lower engagement
Higher finishing rate on the primary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back(down) shift
Lower finishing rate on the primary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, slower back shift
Higher finish rate on the secondary spring = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift
Lower finish rate on the secondary spring = less RPM, faster up shift, faster back shift
Steeper helix angle = less rpm, faster up shift, slower back shift
Shallower helix angle = more RPM, slower up shift, faster back shift