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Best performance upgrades for $500-$600

5K views 28 replies 3 participants last post by  NickRzrOn29.5 
#1 ·
So I’m wondering what gonna be the best bang for my buck. I’m already running a DynaTek EFI programmer and a Yoshimura full exhaust with headers. I’m looking to see what I can do to the motor I was looking around at a few big bore kits with 82mm pistons, jug, and all the seals. I’m just seeing what people have done to there’s looking to spend about five or six hundred dollars.

Nick


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#2 ·
I hate to say it, but short of a turbo, theres just not much extra power to be made from the 800 engines. At least not cheaply.
 
#3 ·
I do a lot of mud riding could that mess the turbo up. Say if I did get it and was riding in mud would it mess the turbo up. Don’t want to spend the money then mess it up. What brands are good quality for the money. I’ve looked at them a little bit I know there around fifteen hundred dollars.

Nick


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#4 ·
I personally have no experience with any of the turbo kits for the rzr 800. There are a bunch of threads floating around here about them though. Just do some searching and you will likely find the answers you are looking for. From what I have read though, even if you turbo, you will still want to upgrade the internals of your engine, pinned and welded crank, better rods and pistons, possibly fuel pump, tuning, etc. As I said above to get the 800 engine to make much extra hp is not cheap. If you are dead set on more hp, maybe even look into swapping in a different engine. Hawk Engineering has a kit for an engine swap, they are vendors here on the forum.
 
#6 ·
Re: Best performance upgrades for $500 - $600


I left mine totally stock after doing quite a bit of research on here and the net. Just couldn't stomach the amount of money for the amount of gains. Instead I spent my money on suspension, clutching, safety stuff and bigger tires for ground clearance. I figure if the hp bug bites me bad enough I'll upgrade to a bigger machine. Much easier to mod them for more hp. The new 900, 1000 and turbo engines have way more ability to make hp, than our old school low rpm pushrod 800s. I mean a bone stock 900 is pushing 75hp, xp900 88hp, 1000 S 100hp, xp 1000 110hp, and the bone stock xp turbo 168hp! By the time I would have thrown everything at the 800, I could have upgraded and been well ahead. So I just decided to ride what I had until it needs an engine or something. Would I like more power, you bet, but I have ridden in enough of the newer bigger machines to know 1) its hard to use all of their power with the riding I do, 2)for me personally suspension is more important than power(I don't mud ride), and 3) with more power I would break more things. I'm already rough on axles as it is. Having less power saves me money all the way around! Lol!
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
@Clothier Yea I’m riding on a 2.5” and 29.5 sniper interco and it robbed a lot of power. But I got a Epi clutch kit for bigger tires it helped some. My brother got a 1000xp highlifter and that thing is insane it’ll hit 70 mph no problem. (completely stock besides k&n air filter) He’s gone through two belts in 6 months. I’ll have to message him. I was talking to my uncle probably gonna take my stock cylinder to a machine shop and bore it for 82mm pistons.


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#9 ·
Re: Best performance upgrades for $500 - $600



I'm sure you probably already know this, but when you bore the stock cylinder you will need to have it re-chromed/nykasil plated. Just throwing that out there, I have seen a few that didn't know that with disasterous results! And pretty much everyone on this forum will tell your brother to toss that k&n before it eats his engine. You may get away with it in the mud, but if you ride any dust, it will trash the engine.
 
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#10 ·
I also don't have any experience with the epi clutch kit. I have a Dalton adjustable kit. I can say I love it, and can ajust it for about anything. Different size or weight tires, for example I had 26" Bighorns very light tire, wnet to 27" Roctanes very heavy tire for its size, totally different clutch set-ups. Now I have 30" Blackwaters, almost the exact same weight as the 27" Roctanes, slightly different clutch set-up. I have also notice, at least on my machine, the belt you use makes a slight difference on clutch set-up. My Gates Carbon belt needed slightly more weight on the arms than the oem belt, my Hunterworks is closer to the oem belt set-up. Everything changes something. It's very hard to make a 1 set-up kit that works best with everything. Just my opinion.
 
#11 ·
@Clothier Yea it’s my first clutch kit when I bought it said it was a Mudder clutch kit for 29.5” tires or bigger. I put it on when I still had 26” big horns on it and it would spin tires on pavement. But after I got bigger tires I probably added over 50-60 lbs in just tires. But as far as belts I rode on oem Polaris belt for probably 6-7 months then a month or two ago. I was road riding with my brother and his friend a 1000xp high lifter and another 800s. We were about back to the house and I heard a loud bam sound. At first I thought it might been my driveshaft but I got home and the belt had exploded into pieces. When I got my clutch kit I also got Epi’s severe duty belt it’s pretty nice real tough material.


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#12 ·
Re: Best performance upgrades for $500 - $600

While your clutch is out see what is stamped on the side of the EPI flyweights. What does your machine rev too? It's possible you might get more out of it by tuning the clutch.

When you look at 82mm big bore kits you'll need to figure out what compression you want to run. The Cylinder Works kit is only 10.2:1. Wiseco has pistons for 11:1 and 12:1 although I wouldn't go that high. And CP has pistons for 11.5:1 which Alba says is good for a solid 4-5 horsepower reliably on pump gas.

https://www.rzrforums.net/alba-racing/67392-alba-racing-2mm-big-bore-rzr-800-kit.html
 
#15 ·
Re: Best performance upgrades for $500 - $600



I would assume the 64 stands for 64 gram weights and 66 stands for 66 gram weights, bigger heavier tires normally need lighter fly weights in order to get the rpm back up close to stock. But it can also have the negative effect of less belt grip when taking off. It's a give and take compromise. Can't have everything all at the same time with clutching.
 
#16 ·
I rev around 1250-1300 jump back and forth while idle I haven’t done research yet I’ll probably see what people recommend or prefer over the other I have to see if the machine shop near me can bore out my stock cylinder out to a 82mm but if I can’t do that I’ll probably go with a cylinder works cylinder and I was looking at wiseco pistons but I hadn’t looked into the compression I’ll have to look around and see what other people have liked


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#17 ·
1250-1300 rpm is pretty normal for idle. Do you know what rpm your clutch engagement is? When it just starts to move the machine. Depending on what riding you do, a primary spring change can raise the engagement rpm, basically makes it launch harder. My clutch kit came with 2 primary springs, the lighter weight/softer spring engages around 1600-1700, the heavier/stiffer spring engages around 2000 rpm. It makes quite a difference honestly. When I went to the 30" tires I also installed a different secondary spring also to help slow down the shift out for the secondary. It cost me a bit of top speed, but worth it for the riding I do. Again everything is a trade off.
 
#19 ·
I’m not sure about the rpms the clutch engages I can check and see when I put the clutches back on I have a set of Epi springs and weights that came out of it the secondary clutch spring I took out was softer but the primary spring I changed was the same one


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#20 ·
Heavier weights can equate to lower engagement, and better belt grip. Just how it goes. Rule of thumb is if you are trying to get the most performance(horse power) Dalton recommends using the heaviest flyweight you can, while still keeping your clutch shift out rpm at 6100 rpm. The heavier the fly weight the better the belt grip, but the lower the shift out rpm. It's a fine line sometimes. Todd at Hunterworks can and has explained alot of the clutching is terms that is easier to understand than what most clutching expert places do. Again just my opinion. But Todd has always taken the time to answer any questions I've had when it came to clutching. And if he don't know, he simply will tell you he doesn't know. Really good guy.
 
#21 ·
Another thing I want to bring up is the rear differential pinion nut. They big nyloc nut that holds tbe pinion in the diff has a bad habit of coming loose! Trust me when I say this, there is no warning, I know from experience! You do not want that $1300 headache. So if yours has not already had the issue fixed, I have the custom tools to do the job. You are welcome to borrow them if you want to tackle the job yourself or have someone that will. If not I don't mind a bit to help ya any way I can. Here is the thread with a video of doing the job. https://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-800-s...on-nut-repair-video-les-hansen-pullerguy.html
 
#23 ·
I seen that about the pinion nut I was gonna tackle that job while I got the motor tore down some for big bore I watched that video earlier today after I seen it on the 800 forums is there any other little things like that I need to be aware of before it happens already figured out what happens when you don’t replace wheel barons broke hub and axle all info given is highly appreciated Thank You


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#24 ·
Re: Best performance upgrades for $500 - $600



Oem bushing suck. Go with Super Daves, Garage Products or Performance SXS Bushings. I've had good luck with Epi heavy duty ball joints, oem sucks. Oem tie-rods suck, with your big tires I'm gonna go ahead a recommend you upgrade to heims, American Star makes a decent kit. But if you want what I consider the best bang for the buck, go with FK teflon lined rod ends and some some high mis-alignment spacers. Thats what I've been using for the last couple of years. I have a bag full of spacers if you want to go that route. Wheel bearings and brake pads I have had the best luck with oem. Buy a set of the wheel bearing greasers, just be sure to get a pair that has tbe hole to,go over the axle, makes greasing the bearings a snap and makes bearings last so much longer! Stay away from k&n air filters! Either use oem, donaldson, or I've use R2C for a couple of years now, cleanable and reuseable. As for your broken hub let me find my post for the rear hub upgrade.
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
#27 ·
I have caltric bushings in the rear and all balls in the front. I still have oem ball joints haven’t done anything to them yet. I still have oem tie rods I was about to get a new rack and pinion and tie rods was gonna come with it. Wheel bearings are oem. I have after market brake pads I put on it. I need to look the wheel bearing greaser up I’ve seen them but never really thought I would need one. But since I’m mudding a lot that might be a good investment. I just put a new oem air filter in it and cleaned my filter box out and put gasket maker around the edge of the lid so my snorkel will be water tight. I had to replace both my rear hubs as of right now I’m running oem 800s hubs.


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#28 ·
I never broke my rear hubs, but I broke 3 fronts by bumping trees and rocks mainly. So I did the xp900 front hub swap and then did a bunch of parts fiche searching and put together the list of rear steel hubs that would fit the 800s. Figured it was just a matter of time until I broke a rear with the bigger tires also, so swapped to steel in the rear also.
 
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