15' RZR 1000 Aftermarket Turbo - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net
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post #1 of 6 Old August 15th, 2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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15' RZR 1000 Aftermarket Turbo

I have a 2015 Polaris RZR factory 1000 with an aftermarket turbo & clutch kit and exhaust. Stock engine, no other performance modifications. I bought the unit used from a repair shop that was using it as a demo to sell RZR parts & service. I've recently learned a bit more about the back story behind some of this and that there are 3 letters that make many people cringe... API. It's an API Turbo Kit & Exhaust along with an "API" AEM Stand-Alone ECU and harness.

The issues:
I've had the unit for 3 years and have put less than 500 miles on it, it's always ran great until it gets hot, then it runs on 1 cylinder. Let it cool down and it will take off running great again. This year it still is running fine, doing the same issues; but had gotten to the point where it was having hit and miss starting issues. Sometimes it would start and run fine, sometimes it would not want to start and when it finally would it was weak with a rough idle. Now its to the point where it won't start at all. I've been chasing it for years as I rarely have time to use it let alone work on it and finally taken some time to research it a bit. I've downloaded the AEM Infinity Tuner software along with Data Logging, but unfortunately the machine won't even start now to do any data logging to find out what's triggering it. I believe I know what's wrong, but hate to start buying parts without knowing for sure.

The installation instructions for the AEM Stand-Alone ECU & Harness state the 3 Coil Driver MUST be mounted to a metallic surface to allow for heat dissipation. Come to find out, it was NEVER mounted to anything. I believe that unit has just been fried, however it sounds like that may not be the case anymore.

AEM Technical Support thinks its the crank sensor. Speaking with Alba Racing, they think there are deeper issues as the crank sensor is reading engine speed, so it appears to be functioning correctly. He said the AEM harness supplied for API were problematic and could be the issue, also said it may have jumped timing. We are going to start checking voltage at the connection between the factory harness and the AEM harness.

It's got fuel and turns over, but won't fire. Sprayed a little either just to see if it would fire on either and it won't which leads me back to coil issues as it's not getting spark.

We haven't started to dig into it real deep yet, but figured I'd see if anyone has any ideas or have had similar issues.

Thanks for any help in advance!
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post #2 of 6 Old August 16th, 2019, 08:29 AM
 
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Re: 15' RZR 1000 Aftermarket Turbo

How do you know it is just running on cylinder 1
I would check the fuel pressure under load. If it started to run rough when it was getting hot and then over time got worse ...I would suspect the fuel pump. The fuel pumps in the 16 xpt were marginal and I would suspect the 15 would be no better or worse
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post #3 of 6 Old August 16th, 2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 15' RZR 1000 Aftermarket Turbo

It will not start at all now as it's not getting spark. I didn't have a way to check fuel pressure under load previously, as I didn't know it had an AEM ECU in it that I could data log or check. But it always ran flawlessly, until a cylinder dropped. It would drop a cylinder and give no throttle response. Often times, I would simply unplug the coils and plug them back in; and it would fire back up immediately and run great. Now it will not start, even with a small shot of either; as it's not getting spark. It could have been fuel related previously, but I don't believe it was.
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post #4 of 6 Old August 16th, 2019, 09:42 AM
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Re: 15' RZR 1000 Aftermarket Turbo

If you do indeed have their 3 channel coil driver, and it was never mounted to a heat sink, it's toast. Every symptom you describe is solid state electronic failure due to overheating. The driver is $130, just get one and install it correctly with the thermal grease required for heat transfer. Next question is what type of COP is being used? Or are you using a coil pack with regular plug wires still? If so how do the wires look? How do the plugs look? How about the wiring to and from the coil driver?
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post #5 of 6 Old August 16th, 2019, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 15' RZR 1000 Aftermarket Turbo

Quote:
Originally Posted by FordTruckMan View Post
If you do indeed have their 3 channel coil driver, and it was never mounted to a heat sink, it's toast. Every symptom you describe is solid state electronic failure due to overheating. The driver is $130, just get one and install it correctly with the thermal grease required for heat transfer. Next question is what type of COP is being used? Or are you using a coil pack with regular plug wires still? If so how do the wires look? How do the plugs look? How about the wiring to and from the coil driver?
That's what our thoughts were. Both AEM & Alba said they didn't think the coil driver would fail even if it wasn't mounted but I'm pretty confident its toast. Just using the factory coil and plug wires. Put new spark plug wires in about 150 miles ago and they still look good, also replaced the spark plugs the other day when I started messing with it again. Wiring all looks good. I'll order a coil driver and see what that does.
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post #6 of 6 Old August 17th, 2019, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmonaweck View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FordTruckMan View Post
If you do indeed have their 3 channel coil driver, and it was never mounted to a heat sink, it's toast. Every symptom you describe is solid state electronic failure due to overheating. The driver is $130, just get one and install it correctly with the thermal grease required for heat transfer. Next question is what type of COP is being used? Or are you using a coil pack with regular plug wires still? If so how do the wires look? How do the plugs look? How about the wiring to and from the coil driver?
That's what our thoughts were. Both AEM & Alba said they didn't think the coil driver would fail even if it wasn't mounted but I'm pretty confident its toast. Just using the factory coil and plug wires. Put new spark plug wires in about 150 miles ago and they still look good, also replaced the spark plugs the other day when I started messing with it again. Wiring all looks good. I'll order a coil driver and see what that does.
Since they are difficult to test properly without a hipot or megger, and they are cheap, I would recommend just get a new ignition coil set as well. The epoxy that separates the layers of the windings can break down when overheated and it lowers the overall resistance of the coil. The current requirement increases and this alone can take out the driver. It it were me, I would out a new ignition coil on there. No sense risking taking out the brand new coil driver. Absolute worst case scenario is you replace both parts and nothing changes, then you have spares. I will say this is all assuming you have done your diligence to make sure power and ground are being supplied to the coil driver and the wiring is all intact. Good luck and let us know what happens.
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