Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800 - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net
RZR 800 Specific Discussion Discussions dedicated to the standard RZR 800 50 model

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post #1 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

I just bought a 2012 RZR 800 EPS LE (Trail Wide) the other day. It has about 240 hours and 1550 miles and was used primarily for trail riding in the mountains. I have a 2010 Kubota RTV 900 Diesel that's 61" wide, but it's very slow, that we use around our property. We've only been trail riding once over at WindRock in TN. I wanted something that we could use to ride the narrow trails around here in WNC. It's taking me a little getting used to the CVT because I'm used to the smooth hydrostatic tranny in my Kubota. The RZR takes off rather quickly, so I'll have to get used to that.

I've been tinkering with it the last couple of days even though the guy I bought it from recently changed all the fluids and replaced the belt. It has new GBC Dirt Tamers on it. 27x9-12 and 27x11-12 with 2" wheel spacers that I may have to remove to ride on some of the restricted trails. It's 53.5" wide front and back right now. I had some throttle pedal slack and I went in yesterday and tried to get to the linkage at the throttle body. I managed to remove the bigger PVT rubber duct (outlet I believe) and I couldn't get the smaller PVT duct out to get to the throttle cable adjuster. I was afraid to jerk it out from the upper connection. I tried taking off the cargo box, but got discouraged after taking out lots of screws and bolts. Need to research that more, video hopefully.

What I did to take up the slack on the throttle pedal was to put 2 1/2" hard flat rubber washers (Home Depot plumbing dept.) on the cable (cut washers on one side with dikes) and slid between the stop and the rubber/plastic end assembly. My idle speed after warm up was 1200-1250 rpm and the two washers held that idle speed and took out the slack.

Now to the serious questions:

1. After start up, the gears grind trying to pull it back into reverse, even after warm up and idling back goes back to 1200-1250. If I turn off ignition, move shifter back to neutral and start it again it, I can shift it into R or L, H. But then after a while, putting it in neutral with engine still running, it will grind again. This didn't happen when I tested out the unit. I'm not sure if the idle speed is to high or if there's another problem like the new belt replacement.
Any suggestions of what could be wrong ?

2. After I bought the RZR I found out about the rear diff problem with the pinion nut. After watching the video of how to repair the pinion nut in the rear differential, I don't have the tools or the mechanical experience to tackle that job. I could take it out, but I don't want to use the local dealer.
Any suggestions to where I could send the rear diff to be repaired ?

3. Wheel Alignment: I could tell my wheel toe in was way off just by looking from the rear. By my official "shad tree mechanic" measurements my wheels are toed "in" 1.63 inches (Wow!) According to an online service manual the Toe Out should be 1/8" to 1/4".
Does that sound correct ?

Thanks for your help !

I look forward to being on RZRForums,net
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post #2 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 10:44 AM
 
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Welcome to the forum. Very nice detailed questions. There are others more qualified than I am that I am sure will answer them. I just want to address the pinion nut. You seem to be mechanically inclined and I am sure you can do it yourself. Pullerguy on here has the tools you can use and has a program set up for people. If I can do it I am sure you will be able to.
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post #3 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 11:02 AM
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You're going to have to take your cvt cover off and inspect it. The only way gears can grind like that is if the primary clutch is still spinning the belt at low rpms. Im still new to this type of cvt but it's my guess your needle bearing is bad or for some reason it is not fully disengaging the belt.

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post #4 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 01:25 PM
 
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tribute View Post
It's taking me a little getting used to the CVT because I'm used to the smooth hydrostatic tranny in my Kubota. The RZR takes off rather quickly, so I'll have to get used to that.

It has new GBC Dirt Tamers on it. 27x9-12 and 27x11-12 with 2" wheel spacers that I may have to remove to ride on some of the restricted trails. It's 53.5" wide front and back right now.


Now to the serious questions:

1. After start up, the gears grind trying to pull it back into reverse, even after warm up and idling back goes back to 1200-1250. If I turn off ignition, move shifter back to neutral and start it again it, I can shift it into R or L, H. But then after a while, putting it in neutral with engine still running, it will grind again. This didn't happen when I tested out the unit. I'm not sure if the idle speed is to high or if there's another problem like the new belt replacement.
Any suggestions of what could be wrong ?
Hey Tribute,
- earlier this year, I purchased a 2014 RZR 800 EPS / LE that had similar hours, miles & tire sizes as yours - mine has a 2" lift kit but no wheel spacers.
Much like you, I didn't care for the way the CVT engaged, so I installed a Duraclutch system, which engages more smoothly so you don't get the quick jerk that stock clutch gives when starting off, it also provides for some engine braking on downhills, they are a bit expensive but might be worth checking out.

My 2014 had Big Horn tires (27x9x12's on front and 27x12x12's back) - I measured about 50 1/2" wide on front & 53 1/2" wide on back (w/o wheel spacers)
- I needed to be at 50" front & back, so I picked up a couple of used front rims from ebay that matched the existing fronts and put 26x9x12 Roctanes on all four.

With regard to the grinding when shifting - did you have the brake fully depressed and engine @ idle?
When I first drove mine, I ground the gears a couple of times when I didn't do that - no issues since then, when I do.

Don't know if have copies of the owners manual or service manual - but here are a a couple of links where you download them if needed,

Owners manual (2011 or 2014 listed - believe that 2011 would be used for 2012) https://offroad.polaris.com/en-us/owners-manuals/
Service manual (for 2011) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...00.html#manual

Hope some of this is helpful.

Steeltom
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post #5 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 01:37 PM
 
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

Welcome! Page 98 in the owners manual tells you how to adjust the throttle. If the rpms are to high at idle it will grind changing gears!
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post #6 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

Thank you Zbird
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post #7 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 02:59 PM
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What is the normal idle rpm on the 800? I just assumed 1200 was about right.

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post #8 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

Thank you Steeltom, DMY, and Wingman02. I just got back inside to check if I was pressing the brake down hard enough to keep it from grinding.
Here's what happens:
If I start in up in Park or Neutral and don't touch the throttle, in goes into gear. If I rev it up in Park or Neutral and then try to shift, it grinds. If I drive around, then stop, put it in Neutral and rev it up, then it grinds trying to go in Low or Reverse. Idle jumps between 1150-1250, but I had been warming it up like the manual says by reving it up a little several times, and that's when I have the grinding. So there's a problem, and I'll just not rev in up in P or N, or check out the things DMY mentioned.

Steeltom, I'll check into that Duraclutch System and I just bookmarked that 2011 service manual. Thanks.
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post #9 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 03:49 PM
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If you rev it and try to change gears, the belt it is probably still spinning. Does it grind when you change gears at idle?

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post #10 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

DMY, if I rev it up in P or N, then let it go back to idle, it still grinds. If I wait like 10+ seconds after going back to idle it will grind. Now I haven't let it go back to idle for like a minute, but I'll try that and see what happens.
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post #11 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 05:28 PM
 
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

First thing I'd do is take the clutch cover off and blow the clutches out with compressed air. Do it outside as you'll be amazed how much dust they hold. Now start it with the cover off and watch how the clutches work. The grinding is because the secondary is spinning when it shouldn't be. A few things can cause this.

It can happen because:
Misalignment of the clutches. While it's running at idle, see if the belt is riding right in the middle of the primary. There should be a slight gap on each side of the belt. If not it's easy to adjust by removing the secondary and adding/removing shims. No special tools needed for this.

Bad bearing in the primary. This is what the belt rides on while at idle, and if it's froze up it will spin the belt all the time. This is a bigger project requiring special tools.

Weights engaging the primary at that rpm. Easy to see if you take the belt off and start it up. If the clutch compresses at all while at idle, you need to lower the idle speed until it doesn't. I had this happen on one because someone changed the weights at some point, then lowered the idle way down to compensate. When I adjusted the idle to 1200 like it should be, I ground gears. It was as simple as swapping out the 3 weights to the originals, which thankfully were included in the sale.

And, just maybe the new belt just needs broken in.
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post #12 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

Thanks 204 AR. I will go through the steps you outlined.
Those ducts to the clutch cover were really dusty when I tried to take them off at the clutch cover housing. I was able to get the bigger duct towards the front completely out after loosening the clamp and pulling the plastic clips. Never could figure how to detach the smaller duct, after removing the clamp, from where it goes up into the panel behind the seat. I was afraid to pull it out and figured the rear bed had to be taken off. That's when I was trying to adjust the throttle cable slack.
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post #13 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 06:12 PM
 
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

The back duct can stay in place.
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post #14 of 29 Old October 4th, 2019, 08:46 PM
 
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

I'm also pretty much a noobie when it comes to these RZR's but I was able to do the pinion nut fix, with the help and tools provided by Pullerguy. If you have the ability to remove the rear diff from the RZR, with his tools, you can do the nut fix, I'm sure.

Also, here is a you tube video detailing the alignment of the belt between the clutches. The explanation of the alignment process starts at about 4 min. 30 sec. into the video.

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post #15 of 29 Old October 5th, 2019, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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My RZR: 2012 RZR 800 EPS LE Trail
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Re: Newbee has Questions about 2012 RZR 800

ReedsportRZR, Thanks, you've given me confidence that I can do the pinion nut. Now if my wife will let me continue to use her parking place inside, I'll be OK.
We had record heat here in WNC the past month, it was 91 yesterday, now it will only get to 65 today. Now that's my kind of weather.

To 24 AR, that back clutch cooling duct is in my way to adjust the throttle slack, but looking at a parts drawing I should be able to pull it straight down out the it's receptacle, no retaining clips are indicated.
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