Well, I had my 08 800 out for the first time (for me) last weekend and apparently I was extremely hard on it. I broke the front wheel hub in about 45 minutes of riding. Now, Im not sure if it was broke when I got it or not but, it still broke. So, I fixed it! I was going to get a set of billet hubs, but I like to use factory parts whenever possible. I did get an updated hub to use, but I still didn't like the cast aluminum. After a little digging I found that some guys use the steel hubs from an XP. So that's the direction I went. I am not the first to do this, but I wasn't able to find a thread on how it was done. Before we start, I will tell you a bit about myself. I am a machinist by trade. I am also a certified auto tech. Anything I say in this thread is my own opinion, follow my instructions at your own will. Anyways on to the fun!!
The parts that you will need: All Polaris OEM stuff
5137659-067 - Front wheel hub/mach - $49 - $69 - 2pcs
5254999 - Disc Brake Front - $36 - $50 - 2pcs
3514699 - Front Wheel Bearing - $26 - $40 - 2pcs
7517871 - Stud 3/8-24 x 1.73 - $1.00 - 8pcs
7518978 - SCR M10x1.5x20 - $1.00 - 8pcs
The last number is just a m10x1.5x20 Flat Head Allen Screw Grade 8.8
Tools:
SAFETY GLASSES - Snap rings can be nasty!!!
Metric sockets and Wrenches - You will need a 26mm for the hub nut or
1-1/16th(what I used)
T40 torx SOCKET - I would recommend a socket style over a wrench
since you have to tighten the Brake Rotor Bolts
Snap Ring Pliers
Pry Bar
Soft Face Dead Blow Hammer - I had to knock the ball joints out of the Hubs
Press
Lets get Started - Jack up the RZR and put it on jack stands - I had mine on
four just to keep it steady, two will work fine. Take off the front wheels.
Heres what youll see, doesn't look too bad does it?
Remove the Bolts that secure the caliper to the Spindle - 15mm wrench
These can be kinda tricky depending on the tie rod ends. I would go ahead
and take the tie rods off as well.
Remove the caliper from the spindle/rotor
Didn't figure you would really need a picture of this, but if you do I can get
one
There SHOULD be a cotter pin securing the nut to the axle, but if the hub is
broken, it is probably gone. If its still there take it out.
Remove the nut securing the hub to the axle. 26mm or 1-1/16th socket
The hub should now come off of the spindle/axle. Hopefully not in two
pieces like this:
You can see the piece of the hub that is broken off still inside the bearing and
on the axle.
Remove the bolts that hold the ball joints in the spindle, one top, one bottom.
You have to take the bolts all the way out since they key into the ball joint
pin.
You may have to use a pry bar or soft face hammer to remove the ball joint
pins from the spindle.
There is a snap ring that holds the bearing in the spindle. Using a good pair of
snap ring pliers and SAFETY GLASSES remove this snap ring.
Then remove the bearing from the spindle. It is best to use a press, but I
bet you can do it without one.
The bearing area inside my spindles were pretty rusty, I used a flap wheel
to clean it up so the new bearings would go in.
Now we're ready for NEW parts!!!
Heres the XP steel hub next to the updated aluminum hub:
New XP rotor vs. stock 800 rotor - Note that the XP rotor is a little smaller
on the outside diameter. This is not an issue as the rotor will still engage the
pads fully when everything is assembled.
Gonna continue in a new post so I don't lose all of this!
The parts that you will need: All Polaris OEM stuff
5137659-067 - Front wheel hub/mach - $49 - $69 - 2pcs
5254999 - Disc Brake Front - $36 - $50 - 2pcs
3514699 - Front Wheel Bearing - $26 - $40 - 2pcs
7517871 - Stud 3/8-24 x 1.73 - $1.00 - 8pcs
7518978 - SCR M10x1.5x20 - $1.00 - 8pcs
The last number is just a m10x1.5x20 Flat Head Allen Screw Grade 8.8
Tools:
SAFETY GLASSES - Snap rings can be nasty!!!
Metric sockets and Wrenches - You will need a 26mm for the hub nut or
1-1/16th(what I used)
T40 torx SOCKET - I would recommend a socket style over a wrench
since you have to tighten the Brake Rotor Bolts
Snap Ring Pliers
Pry Bar
Soft Face Dead Blow Hammer - I had to knock the ball joints out of the Hubs
Press
Lets get Started - Jack up the RZR and put it on jack stands - I had mine on
four just to keep it steady, two will work fine. Take off the front wheels.
Heres what youll see, doesn't look too bad does it?
Remove the Bolts that secure the caliper to the Spindle - 15mm wrench
These can be kinda tricky depending on the tie rod ends. I would go ahead
and take the tie rods off as well.
Remove the caliper from the spindle/rotor
Didn't figure you would really need a picture of this, but if you do I can get
one
There SHOULD be a cotter pin securing the nut to the axle, but if the hub is
broken, it is probably gone. If its still there take it out.
Remove the nut securing the hub to the axle. 26mm or 1-1/16th socket
The hub should now come off of the spindle/axle. Hopefully not in two
pieces like this:
You can see the piece of the hub that is broken off still inside the bearing and
on the axle.
Remove the bolts that hold the ball joints in the spindle, one top, one bottom.
You have to take the bolts all the way out since they key into the ball joint
pin.
You may have to use a pry bar or soft face hammer to remove the ball joint
pins from the spindle.
There is a snap ring that holds the bearing in the spindle. Using a good pair of
snap ring pliers and SAFETY GLASSES remove this snap ring.
Then remove the bearing from the spindle. It is best to use a press, but I
bet you can do it without one.
The bearing area inside my spindles were pretty rusty, I used a flap wheel
to clean it up so the new bearings would go in.
Now we're ready for NEW parts!!!
Heres the XP steel hub next to the updated aluminum hub:
New XP rotor vs. stock 800 rotor - Note that the XP rotor is a little smaller
on the outside diameter. This is not an issue as the rotor will still engage the
pads fully when everything is assembled.
Gonna continue in a new post so I don't lose all of this!
