I got everything welded together and took it for a ride today. I am very pleased with the results. Sound levels were reading 80-82 decibels at idle and about 90-95db at my usual pace of 10-15mph with the kids in. The first ride I took myself, I had to go about 200yds down the paved road and thought something was wrong with my RZR because it was making a funny sound. But it was just the sound of the tires on the road that I normally don't hear. The idle and low RPM exhaust tone is that of an econo car (low and powerless) which is what I figured it would be. It is quieter which is the main thing I wanted. There is a raspy tone\buzz that shows up between 4500-4800rpms. Not a deal breaker as I am usually just below that level while cruising. If you go WOT, it actually sounds pretty good IMO. There is a loss in throttle response from what my right foot could tell. The little hills that I usually just gave a little more throttle on took just a little more to reach the same speeds. I am happy with it. The ride was much more enjoyable with family. I saw about twice as many deer too. I do need to add a hanger to the drivers side end of the glass pack. It was hanging lower than I expected after the ride was over. You will notice that I still have my rear sway bar on. I have a Vent Racing 2+2 cage on back of my RZR so it can be a tad top heavy and I like that the sway bar helps with that, so I will not be removing it. There was no paint rubbed off the pipe after the ride so I don't think it ever impacted the pipe.
I will post videos with audio tomorrow. Hopefully they give a true representation of what it sounds like. I will also compile a detailed list of parts that I used. I think it was a combination of noise eliminating projects that I completed to knock the sound levels down to what I wanted. Headers wrapped, full heat shield with dynamat, and the exhaust modification.
Here are the pics. Take an easy on my amateur welding skills. I use my dad's welder about twice a year so they are what they are - crappy.
Here is my final list of parts I used. I had access to a welder so I did not need as many clamps as listed. With my setup, I can take the clamp off the stock pipe to 17909 muffler connection and my elbow tail pipe and slide the main muffler assembly and glass pack out the passenger side above the tire.
Everything was ordered from Summit Racing
(1) - Walker Exhaust 17909 - #22.97
(3) - 1 3/4 Clamp - PTE-H7174 - $5.91
(1) - 1 3/4 U-bend - PTE-H7023 - 13.97
(1) - 1 3/4 Connector - Walker 41926 - $3.97 (used wider side only to sleeve over elbow)
(1) - JEX 1 3/4 inlet Glasspack - JEX-A3018S - $19.97
(1) - 1 3/4 Elbow - WLK-41000 - $6.97
(2) - Exhaust Hangers - WLK-35103 - $11.94
(1) - Rustoleum Black Heat paint - 248903 - $6.97
(2) - 2" Exhaust Clamps - WLK-36145 - $9.94 (I welded most of my connections so I did not need these)
Total cost - $102.61
This puts you over the $100 mark and qualifies you for free shipping.
Quick overview of assembly:
Start by cutting of 1.5"-2" off each end of the tailpipe and glasspack. I did this to shorten things up overall. Leave enough pipe to fit a clamp on when assembling everything.
I cut slots on the inlet end of the muffler as it was a tight fit to get it over my stock exhaust pipe.
Slide the new muffler on and clamp it with a 1 3/4 clamp.
Cut your U bend in half at the middle of the bend.
Now you have 2 peices, take one half and stick the cut end in the muffler.
Take the other half and stick the cut end in the glass pack.
Mark a line on each where they overlap and cut off the excess.
Now take the 1 3/4 connector adapter and cut the wider end off to use as a coupler for the u-bend pieces. I welded this section of pipe up on mine as I thought it would look thrown together with all the clamps it would need.
Attach the bend pipe to the glass pack.
On the exit end of the glass pack I used an elbow. However the elbow was the same diameter as the glasspack so I used a straight peice of 1 3/4 pipe form the U-bend I cut off and slid it inside the elbow and the glasspack. I used a 1 3/4 clamp here as well. I needed this tailpipe to be removable so I could slide it out through the frame.
Then swap the stock spark arrester to the end of the tailpipe.
Attach exhaust hangers in location that you feel will support the exhaust well. I mounted one in the middle of the bend between the muffler and glasspack and one where the tailpipe comes off the glasspack.