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2013 800 RZR questions

2K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  skidoorulz 
#1 ·
I bought a 13 800 with 2684 miles and 183.6 hours. Pulled the plugs do not think they have ever been changed. They are champions did this come with champions? Also wondering if there needs to be any valve train adjustment with this many miles and hours. It seems to have a pretty loud rattle at certain rpms. Replaced the pins in the clutch as they had clear wear on them weights were snug with new pins so did not replace them. Rollers all seemed good. What about the one way bearing does the spider need to be taken off and the bearing cleaned and lubed? Going to do a cold compression check what should cold compression be? Should injectors be good still at this mileage? I know absolutely no history on this machine as I bought it from a dealer and they are not to lose with customer info. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also anything over and above the questions I asked would be helpful also.
 
#2 ·
Google the 2013 Rzr Service Manual, it is your best friend. Find a link like: http://tinken.com/rzrforum/servicemanuals/2013 RZR, RZR4 800 Service-Manual.pdf

Here are a couple of thoughts:

Champions spark plugs came with it and the manual recommends them but NGK will work in the same heat range.

There is no valve train adjustment. Some knock is normal. These are flat tappet cams and do make some noise. If the motor has ingested dust, it could have worn the valves, piston rings, and rods etc. No way to tell without breaking the engine open. Use a good oil with zinc and change it often.

The clutch bearing has seals on it, but they can wear. Polaris doesn't specify to lube the clutch bearing not to say it shouldn't be done but I don't know that I'd do it specifically unless you had the clutch out anyway or if it's squealing etc. Take the clutch cover off and see how it moves with the engine off and on. If you take it off, clean it but don't cake it with grease as it can gum it up if you use too much.

Compression should be 165-185.

Injectors should be good. If you think you have a fuel problem I would check fuel pressure as the fuel pump is more likely to go out.

You have relatively low mileage. I've had 2 Rzr's and got around 6K on one and 8K on the other before rebuilding the top ends. Some people get even more. Dust is your biggest enemy no matter how many miles.

And lastly, make sure you do the pinion nut repair.
 
#7 ·
I bought a 13 800 with 2684 miles and 183.6 hours. Pulled the plugs do not think they have ever been changed. They are champions did this come with champions? Also wondering if there needs to be any valve train adjustment with this many miles and hours. It seems to have a pretty loud rattle at certain rpms. Replaced the pins in the clutch as they had clear wear on them weights were snug with new pins so did not replace them. Rollers all seemed good. What about the one way bearing does the spider need to be taken off and the bearing cleaned and lubed? Going to do a cold compression check what should cold compression be? Should injectors be good still at this mileage? I know absolutely no history on this machine as I bought it from a dealer and they are not to lose with customer info. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also anything over and above the questions I asked would be helpful also.
Google the 2013 Rzr Service Manual, it is your best friend. Find a link like: http://tinken.com/rzrforum/servicemanuals/2013 RZR, RZR4 800 Service-Manual.pdf

Here are a couple of thoughts:

Champions spark plugs came with it and the manual recommends them but NGK will work in the same heat range.

There is no valve train adjustment. Some knock is normal. These are flat tappet cams and do make some noise. If the motor has ingested dust, it could have worn the valves, piston rings, and rods etc. No way to tell without breaking the engine open. Use a good oil with zinc and change it often.

The clutch bearing has seals on it, but they can wear. Polaris doesn't specify to lube the clutch bearing not to say it shouldn't be done but I don't know that I'd do it specifically unless you had the clutch out anyway or if it's squealing etc. Take the clutch cover off and see how it moves with the engine off and on. If you take it off, clean it but don't cake it with grease as it can gum it up if you use too much.

Compression should be 165-185.

Injectors should be good. If you think you have a fuel problem I would check fuel pressure as the fuel pump is more likely to go out.

You have relatively low mileage. I've had 2 Rzr's and got around 6K on one and 8K on the other before rebuilding the top ends. Some people get even more. Dust is your biggest enemy no matter how many miles.

And lastly, make sure you do the pinion nut repair.
175 and 185 on compression so no issue there. I am going to remove the prv and check that. Don't think dust is was an issue as the throttle body is extremely clean on inspection. What is the pinion nut repair? Front or rear? does it need to be retightened or is there something that needs to be replaced?
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
Is it moving at all?
 
#15 ·
I would try letting the engine warm to operating temp and see if that helps. The aluminum block may expand a bit faster than the steel dowel, so it may help free it up. Another thing, maybe measure to see how far down in the hole the dowel is. If the machine was running good, them I doubt the dowel is stuck all the way down. Most that I have read about being stuck all the way down, got to where they would not start, because the high oil pressure was holding the valves open just a bit. If you will get a measurement, I'll try to run by my storage and measure how deep mine is, so you will know where yours is at in the bore. Then maybe we can get a plan of attack.
 
#16 ·
Yea I thought about warming it up with no spring in it just the plug. I am thinking it is stuck open as I have been getting a pretty good rattle sounds like valve train. I gave up for tonight I will get a measurement tomorrow and let you no what it is. Thanks
 
#17 ·
Update. it was in 1 1/16th of an inch. I say was because I picked up some carb cleaner today and squirted it in the opening. I left the spring out and but the plug in and started it up. Got temp to 180 and shut it off and took the plug out. Stuck the magnet in and click it snapped right out before I got the magnet in all the way. So now my question is was it stuck open or closed? It did have some wearing on it only half way around the shaft in the center. I will polish it and put it back in and see what happens. Thanks for everyones help
 
#19 ·
Update. it was in 1 1/16th of an inch. I say was because I picked up some carb cleaner today and squirted it in the opening. I left the spring out and but the plug in and started it up. Got temp to 180 and shut it off and took the plug out. Stuck the magnet in and click it snapped right out before I got the magnet in all the way. So now my question is was it stuck open or closed? It did have some wearing on it only half way around the shaft in the center. I will polish it and put it back in and see what happens. Thanks for everyones help
Since it was stuck, I also recommend getting a gun barrel cleanimg brush that will fit down in the bore and cleaning the bore out really good also. Then check the dowel every oil change. Glad you got it out! And it was certainly stuck in the up position. Mine mearsure almost 1 1/2" down in there.
 
#18 ·
Chamfer end of pin, first into block.
Screw Fastener Auto part Hardware accessory Metal
 
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