I have a question, my 08 rzr 800 has gone through about 5 bearings ( part # 1521185) on the primary clutch, is there an up grade like rzr s bearing #1520836 and run rzr s belt? I called the dealer and they said it should work, but no one has the parts in stock, I have over 12,000 miles on it and I am always in to the clutch. I drove an 09 rzr s and it shifted so easy like the linkage wasn't even hooked up, mine always shifted real hard even new. dealer said that's how they shift, why would a rzr s shift so easy? any help would be much appreciated.
Good points, but I've looked inside a new two-way bearing and a new one-way bearing, and I can't see anything obvious that would make one last longer than the other.
I'd also bet that with 12000 miles on a primary clutch, that probably doesn't have air filtering on the CVT inlet...the primary clutch is completely worn out!!
Here is why I think the one way wears out faster, it does work and the other one just rolls.
So it stands to reason a one way could damage the shaft therefore the new bearing will get worn out faster.
In a rhino clutch there is a big one way bearing, if you put it in a wore out wet clutch where the surface is messed up the new bearing does not last long.
I totally understand that. I just try to solve issues that most people have with the average mods. We can do that pretty easily with the clutches and Dalton kits we offer. They cover most people. Sure there are mods and people we can't cover but they need something special.
Simply based on the business model we have, we stick to what provides the majority of owners a solution. The other would take a actual bring it in and let me fix it solution or something time consuming and custom.
the shaft of the clutch is fine, the service center at the dealer said that they are replacing the original 08 rzr $70.00 brng with the newer rzr $18.00 brng. but if you don't do your home work you would by the $70.00 brng. like I almost did, at that price I will have a few on hand
well I was so exited, got my parts today, sad to say the dealer was wrong on the new upgrade brng . the original is abouit 2" tall. the new is about 1 1/4" so I guess back to ordering the original, bummer I wanted to ride.:sad:
Now...if you want engine braking going down hill. Get the one-way bearing. It works great. No more having the clutches free-wheel going down a long slope.
The one-way bearing is PN 1520836
If you want the "Dual Sensing EBS" like quads have, then you need the EBS helix for the secondary clutch. I don't have my parts book handy...but if you're interested lemme know.
I got the new shorter brng to work, (call me a hack if you want) since the new brng was only 1 1/4 long needs to be 2" I took some 3/4 masking tape and wrapped it around the old brng brass bushing side and cut it a lil extra and filed it flat. a lathe or band saw would be nice to use, and installed old brng none cut side towards the new brng with a fiber washer and another fiber washer on the cut side of the brng. the bushing I made doesn't need to spin it only hold the sheave centered. the new brng is almost like a wrist pin brng encased, has needle brngs almost wide as the brng. and I put a lil real expensive grease from ski doo just for needle brngs, $50.00 a small tube, they use it for the bottom ends of there motors, seems to work fine,
it works fine, don't throw away your old bearing, it would be nice to have someone with a mill or lathe to just make a 3/4" brass bushing to make up for the shorter bearing, even the new brng has a small amount of grease from the factory, I will have to figure out how to make a sketch and post it, the org brng has a needle brng side and a bushing side, cut the bushing side about 3/4" buy an extra fiber washer that is used on the clutch so you will need three, (I always replace them) if someone made that bushing they would make some good money selling them, not sure how they bush the new clutches, looks like they only use one pic for all the years, and the brng they show next to this short on is the bushing that presses in the moving clutch sheave. same part # as mine shows on the 08 rzr.
Thank you so much for the tip. When I received the new bearing, I was super confused. Used your idea and it's working great. Unfortunately I taped off right on the line and cut, so mine was a blade shorter than it needed to be. There is a little extra play, but still plenty of landscape for the belt to rest on.
Two quick questions....
Can you buy a spacer? If so, is it part number 1 (3514492 BEARING-DU,1.75ID) when looking at the primary clutch schematic layout?
Also, what is the best way to get a primary clutch apart?
The first two that I removed using a clutch puller both came apart before the clutch even broke loose. I purchased another online, but the bearing is seized up and I can't for the life of me break the clutch loose.
Oh sorry bout that. This is my first rzr. Just assumed it was the bearing bc it grinds when putting into gear( you kinda have to force it) and then when in gear it whines and moves without giving it gas. Just wondering if the 08-09 clutch will work bc for some reason theyre much cheaper and appear to be the same
Yes, an 08-09 clutch will work in a later model year. But if you are grinding and moving when putting into gear you have a different problem and a new clutch won't solve it. Hunterworks has described the problem and the solution here: https://www.hunterworks.com/grinding_into_gear_creeping
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