With a castle nut you can't always get the exact torque you want because you have to align the slots to replace the cotter pin. If the threads are coarse you can lose a major amount of torque in just the few degrees it takes to back the nut off to get the pin through. I would prefer a locknut to a castle nut.

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Now a 2-Rzr household.
Romeo, MI
http://tinyurl.com/8ltm8
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I agree with you on this point, however, I don't see anyone having to back off from 80 to 21 lbs to fit a cotter pin when there are 2 different holes to put the pin through. When doing it myself the most I had to overtorque (which is what I did instead of backing the nut off) was three lbs so I have a nut that is 83 instead of 80 lbs.

Mark,
Not sure the grease helps anything actually...I didn't grease anything, just tightened the nut and it stopped clicking....
As for the torque,I know some folks are spec junkies, but I just used an impact wrench and let it hammer a couple of times until my next hole in the castle nut lined up for the pin.....
Hoodlum

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3 1989 Honda pilots
1985 350 odyssey
2008 Polaris rzr

thanks all for the info mine only got 80 miles on it and the axles are clicking to so i will do some grease and torque it to

The grease is merely a preventative measure, and while you're in there you may as well add some extra lubrication. The clicking noise itself is the fault of the loose axle nuts.

i torque the axel nuts to 80 lbs like you guys said and the problem is fixed so thanks for the information.

What size nut is it? Its bigger then I have and I want to buy the right size the first time.

Did anyone have a little play when they "wiggled" the tire before they tightened the nut?

the cv joint axel nut size is 1 1/16 and the wheel didn't wiggle mine was torque at around 60lbs so i torque it at 80lbs

Thanks!

Ok mines clicking and now after reading this post im thinking i have this problem too! Im one of those super mechanically challenged computer geeks! I just pull that cotter pin off and undo that bolt there and im suppose to grease stuff inside there? Well what kind of grease do I use and where do I get it at? Im sure you are probably laughing really hard after reading this... Can I do this with the wheel on or should I take it off? Any other input to help me out would be appreciated! Thanks for all the info!

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Jeffro

08' Green Polaris Rzr (Gen 3)
26" ITP Mudlite XTR's on 12" Vision Bruiser Wheels
Deluxe Front & Rear Brushguards
3500lb Polaris Winch

I guess I'll go to Napa and ask because I can't wait for a response any longer

Any grease for a grease gun should be fine, I really like the mobil 1 synthetic but just about anything will work.

As for taking the wheels off or leaving them on... I guess you could leave them on but it would probably be easier to take them off for pulling and replacing the hubs.

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Cogito, Ergo sum.

ok i took off that and the 2 washers but then its like a plate there nothing else i can see that comes off.... so i just torqued the bolt to 80 lbs and the clicking went away I think! I took it for a long drive and didn't hear it at all even when i turned hard! So I think it worked...

You did good. Napa should have grease guns for cheap and a tube of marine or boat trailer grease to fit in it. This grease works well for these toys. Use the grease gun to hit the zirks on your a-arms and sway bars and keep your axle nuts torqued to around 80 ft lbs and you should be ok. The manual you got with the rzr should show you all the grease points and where and when to change fluids.

Sorry we didn't get back to ya sooner, but we were out riding.

Thanks for the response.. I never did grease anything because Napa was closed on sunday and when I took the off that castle nut there was 2 washers I pulled those and then i didnt see anything else i could take off? Do i need to take the tires off and the hub just comes off or something? Thanks for all your help! How was your ride yesterday?